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perrynz

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About perrynz

  • Birthday 05/08/1963

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  • Aircraft
    ICP Savannah S
  • Location
    Wairarapa
  • Country
    New Zealand

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  1. Hi Pat. Just to add my two cents worth, as others have mentioned, the hex headed bolts and nuts need to be swapped out with the correct AN hardware. The bolts that are fitted in your plane appear to be stainless steel, and are unlikely to meet the same tensile and shear strength as AN bolts and nuts. Additionally, the threads on aircraft bolts are formed by a rolling process (not cutting) and are therefore much stronger in tension applications. Looks like a great project ahead of you. Cheers. Perry
  2. Wanting to purchase an exhaust muffler and rear pipe for a Jabiru 2200 powered Bantam B22J. (Or can someone post detailed photos of the exhaust installation up through the wing) I’m based in NZ, so ideally local.
  3. Hi GDM. I had similar if not identical problem. I posted the following 21 June 2019: Hi Friarpuk. I had on-going ignition problems with my 912 after about 20hrs from new. When carrying out the pre take-off ignition checks, I would regularly experience RPM drops of 400 to 1000RPM, even to the point that the engine would basically quit but then spring back to life again. I tested and suspected lots of things. Checked earth connections. Changed all of the spark plugs etc etc. Eventually, in order to isolate a CDI unit failure/problem, I swapped the CDI unit (6 pin) plugs around. (The ones that come out of each CDI) This immediately fixed the problem, but I didn’t know why. (proved it wasn’t a CDI fault anyhow) Alas, after probably another 20hrs the problem reoccurred. Long story short, after pulling most of my hair out, and thinking life without an aeroplane would be much simpler, I stumbled on THE fault. One of the two brown wires (that go to the ignition switches) had been fretting itself on the bracket that holds the CDI units. When I swapped the 6 pin plugs over, it had temporarily re-routed the wire so it sat off that bracket, and the engine ran perfectly for a while. I could see an area of slight discolouration on the suspect wire, and double checked my suspicion with a multi meter. Sure enough, there was bare wire earthing itself onto the bracket. Effectively, each time the wire touched the bracket due to vibration, it had the same effect as switching off one of the ignitions. Anyway Friarpuk, it may not be your engine’s problem, but it’s worth a look. Here’s a pic. If you follow the brown wire down and enlarge the pic, you can see the fretted area. Cheers. Perry
  4. Have you checked that the full flaps position is within specs Bob?
  5. Try a 20kg sandbag in the boot. Should give you some indication.
  6. Yes, I have the seats all the way back. That would likely be the difference.
  7. Gidday Bob. My trim is set up pretty similar to yours, although my cruise setting on the bar graph is closer to 2/10 when flying solo. I do find that when two up, my trim requires close to full nose down in cruise. My thoughts are that holding a little rear stick for landing (read that: for relatively short duration) is preferable to holding ANY trim in cruise. Haven’t seen you down in our strip for a while Bob. Cheers. Perry
  8. Hi Steve. Had a look at my wiring. My 50amp fuse has only 2 wires. As Bob says, the one with the ring to the battery side of the solenoid, and the one with the spade connector to “bat” on the regulator. On that particular connection there is also a wire that connects to the +ve on the capacitor. (I fitted a new spade connector with both wires crimped into it) So, my guess would be that the white coloured connector in your picture goes directly to the capacitor.
  9. Steve. In addition to my previous comments, here are a couple of pics of the parking brake arrangement in the Savannah S. The yellow lever (LH lower side of instrument panel) operates two “in line” hydraulic ball valves. They are simply a hydraulic lock which, after applying the brake pedals and rotating the yellow lever down, the pressure in the lines is locked in place, and hence parks the brakes. Off the top of my head, I can’t recall if this was an ICP supplied item, or sourced via the (then) Australasian agent. Perry
  10. Hi Steve. Here’s a couple of pics of the dual brake set up. I have since removed the passenger side brakes as the factory supplied cylinders/reservoirs leaked, and therefore continually had a pool of fluid sitting on the top. Essentially the second pair is “piggy backed” off the first pair. You need to route/secure the lines so that when the pedals are fully forward, there is nil (or little) chance of hooking your feet in them. Cheers. Perry
  11. IBob. Does the return fuel to your RH inboard tank feature in the above?
  12. Hey Spacesailer. You seem to be missing the point. Plans can change hands no problem, with or without a part-built aircraft, as long as there is only one finished aircraft built from that particular set of plans. A manufacturer won’t charge you for a change of plans ownership. How could they? All they are interested in is that they sell each set of plans for one aircraft build. That’s fair enough, as they spent the time and money designing it. Regarding Hummel, the set of plans that I had were certainly serial numbered. Cheers. Perry
  13. I wouldn’t foresee any problem, as long as it’s only one aircraft per plan set.
  14. Plan sets are generally serial numbered, and notated one aircraft only to be built from each set. Additionally there is often a requirement to register a transfer of plans with the manufacturer. Some manufacturers also won’t sell “off the shelf” parts for an aeroplane unless the purchaser is the registered plans owner. Hope this may help. Cheers. Perry
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