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Group for Owners/Operators of Jabiru and Camit Aero Engines
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  2. I hope it lasts as well as mine has. Never thought about the 2 way terminals but depending on location that is a handy feature.
  3. Tried one of these in my J200 recently(after reading your post) as the odyssey battery couldn't cope with the winter cold starts... So far so good, with temps below 0 deg The Mottobatt starts it first go no problems.. Cost me $175 delivered. The two way terminals is a good feature too.
  4. It will need to have enough power to throw the pinion out to fully engage the ring gear. You could also install a car style starter with a pre-engage mechanism. The problem with this is presumably a weight disadvantage.
  5. you could do it actually, in a crude but effective sort of way with an extra starter solenoid in series with the starter cable, and a time delay relay. The 2nd starter contactor has a small loop of wire across the contacts. Initially the starter is engaged with the 2nd contactor 'open' so the starter is connected via that length of wire, which acts like a resistor taking a couple of volts off your battery. After one second the time delay relay times-out and the 2nd contactor pulls in, shorting the loop wire, giving your battery full voltage. You
  6. I have made a soft start for the Jabiru. It works by simulating a flat battery . It gets the starter engaged at low voltage- as once it is engaged it does stay engaged down to a few volts.... then winds up the voltage... Going to install on mine next week, have been messing with a starter motor (same as Jab ) on the bench. Will make up some kits..... Goes in series with your starter pos cable from the solenoid...
  7. Bruce has mentioned Lithiums, which because of their much lower weight, are attractive for aircraft. I tried small AGMs for several years and found them only just up to the job, especially in winter. When I fitted a LiFePO4 (which claimed a 400 CCA rating) I also fitted a PowerMate regulator which seems to have mated up well with this battery. As Bruce says, a lithium may not be a drop-in replacement for a LA battery; the charge regime is different and their much lighter weight may cause you CoG issues. Besides its very light weight and ability to keep its charge for mon
  8. I have a Motobatt MBTX20U AGM battery which is 21Ah with 310 CCA that has been going well for 5 years so far. Never had a problem on freezing cold mornings. It cost about $110.00 but they are about $150.00 now I think. Heaps cheaper than Odyssey which are overpriced IMO. It weighs 6.5kgs so no lightweight.
  9. My Jabiru kit came with a motorbike lead-acid battery which was not good enough to start the engine, well after I left it on a small solar charger for months. It was replaced with an Odyssey, which performed well for more than ten years. It is still going, that battery, these days on a farm buggy. I am sure Onetrack is correct, but I didn't know that stuff at the time. The reason for replacing it in the plane was because of weight. A LiFePO4 was 5kg lighter! and much cheaper too, from a chinese hobby online shop. ( without the charging electronics and the case which looks like a regular
  10. The only two ways you can increase starter torque is by increasing the cable and connector sizes - or by increasing the battery voltage. Battery voltage drops to about 10V at the starter when cranking, normally. If you utilise a larger battery you may see a slight increase in battery voltage at the starter when cranking, but I personally don't think you would see any substantial increase in starter torque. A slight gain, perhaps. CCA is really quite a poor measurement for our climate. It's an industry standard set in, and for, North America, to determine a batterys cranking ab
  11. Just like sports car manufacturers brag about how much horsepower their engines have, battery brands tend to do the same thing with their performance attributes. Enough brands and companies have told people over the years that "more is better" when it comes to cold cranking amps, that a lot of folks now believe it always the case. While more may be better, it may not be necessary and it may be more expensive. One of the performance attributes is how many cold cranking amps (CCA) a battery can generate. So how is this determined? Since "Cold" is in the name, they put a battery
  12. Up until now I have always used Odyssey Batteries in my J230. However, I have just found my local battery shop is quoting a 2 months supply delay, so I went looking at alternative lead/acid batteries. Now the Odyssey battery is quoted as 200CCA, some of the batteries I have come across advertise 300CCA. Given the starter ring is at the back of the motor and the flywheel (prop) is at the front, should I be concerned for the starter ring attachment, crank shaft, etc as a result of the extra torque? Alan
  13. A great part of the world to fly in. I used to love that area when doing Perth to Sydney. Picked up fuel at Port Pirie.
  14. My great great grandfather was a sea captain that sailed th 200ton Waitama from Port Adelaide to Albany and Perth. On his last sailing the ship started to leak and he beached the ship on St Francis island (off Ceduna), he was there for 3 months before being rescued. On one of my flights across the bight I cam over the island swearing to visit it. I later found out about my ancestor being shipwrecked on this island
  15. Has anyone got a drawing of the Camit Oil separator that screws into the top of the engine Cheers Tony
  16. I have just asked the spare parts guys at Jabiru about a fuel pump kit. The manual says " the fuel pump is replaced as a complete unit" so it may be that this is going to be expensive. Has anybody done this job? What should be a fuel pump life anyway?
  17. Hello Bruce, I'm a newcomer to Jabs, but have a lot of time on Rotax 912 which uses same carbs I tend to view Hoses as an 'on condition' component carb overhaul for the bings If I havn't touched them in 5 years then I will take apart and replace anything needed )Diaphragms I change regardless of how they look). Carb Socket I will also change if it has lasted 5 years (in my experience some can go bad much sooner) I use only Ethanol free fuel, if using fuel with Ethanol id be looking very regularly at my hoses and carb floats Jabiru Fuel pump is a bit of an unknown to me right now
  18. My latest worry is about if these things should be overhauled. Has anybody done this ? There are various directives about rubber bits having lives of 2 to 5 years. On a sustainer engined glider I once serviced, all the hoses had to be replaced at 2 years, even though they all looked new to me. I guess that the writers of the directive assume that the worst-kept glider ( tied down outside in the sun ) determines what the rest have to do. In the meantime, although there has been the odd AD or two, overhauling the carb and fuel pump are not in the maintenance schedules that I have noticed.
  19. Yeah the donk I have has the NGK Iridium's, I re gapped them at 0.25 thou, they where around 0.30, runs well.
  20. Yep. Someone on this forum bought a job lot for a bunch of us a few years back. I removed them for inspection last week, after years of good service, then put them back.
  21. Flightrite I am running Iridium plugs in a 2200. I fitted them as I was changing to resistor plugs to tackle some interference and decided to use Iridium resistor plugs to counter possible harder starting due to extra resistance They seem to be performing well with easy starts
  22. Not directly subject related but is anyone running iridium plugs in their Jab donks?
  23. Annoying much younger days in the 70s I used to play with Holden V8 a 4.2 litre V8. If you put to bigger Holly on it the performance was less than if you put a smaller Holly on it. A lot to do with turbulence and mixing of the fuel and air.
  24. Sometimes a wide open throttle will allow Laminar flow in the inlet manifold, sometimes the air/ fuel mixture will wall attach, either way you will have a ahot lean stream with a cool rich mixture. The heat from lean mixture is two fold owing to the flame front bring so much slower that your crank is not in the best position for absorption of the hot gas energy etc. Maybe put a small obstruction just after the carburettor to get good mixture. Also use a carbon monoxide Meyer in the exhaust and time engine to a barely perceptible reading. Impossible to tell without instrumentation.
  25. The CHT's should be less at wide open throttle ( WOT) because of the cooling due to all that fuel exceeding the extra heat from all the power. In my case, the climb CHT was higher with WOT. So, having a nice set of number drills, I opened out the jet just a tiny bit. This seemed to help a bit, but not that much, so I opened it out again with the next drill bit. It still doesn't run cooler at WOT and I am too chicken to do the opening trick again. Any ideas?
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