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Group for Owners/Operators of Jabiru and Camit Aero Engines
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  2. The only two ways you can increase starter torque is by increasing the cable and connector sizes - or by increasing the battery voltage. Battery voltage drops to about 10V at the starter when cranking, normally. If you utilise a larger battery you may see a slight increase in battery voltage at the starter when cranking, but I personally don't think you would see any substantial increase in starter torque. A slight gain, perhaps. CCA is really quite a poor measurement for our climate. It's an industry standard set in, and for, North America, to determine a batterys cranking ab
  3. Just like sports car manufacturers brag about how much horsepower their engines have, battery brands tend to do the same thing with their performance attributes. Enough brands and companies have told people over the years that "more is better" when it comes to cold cranking amps, that a lot of folks now believe it always the case. While more may be better, it may not be necessary and it may be more expensive. One of the performance attributes is how many cold cranking amps (CCA) a battery can generate. So how is this determined? Since "Cold" is in the name, they put a battery
  4. Up until now I have always used Odyssey Batteries in my J230. However, I have just found my local battery shop is quoting a 2 months supply delay, so I went looking at alternative lead/acid batteries. Now the Odyssey battery is quoted as 200CCA, some of the batteries I have come across advertise 300CCA. Given the starter ring is at the back of the motor and the flywheel (prop) is at the front, should I be concerned for the starter ring attachment, crank shaft, etc as a result of the extra torque? Alan
  5. A great part of the world to fly in. I used to love that area when doing Perth to Sydney. Picked up fuel at Port Pirie.
  6. My great great grandfather was a sea captain that sailed th 200ton Waitama from Port Adelaide to Albany and Perth. On his last sailing the ship started to leak and he beached the ship on St Francis island (off Ceduna), he was there for 3 months before being rescued. On one of my flights across the bight I cam over the island swearing to visit it. I later found out about my ancestor being shipwrecked on this island
  7. Has anyone got a drawing of the Camit Oil separator that screws into the top of the engine Cheers Tony
  8. I have just asked the spare parts guys at Jabiru about a fuel pump kit. The manual says " the fuel pump is replaced as a complete unit" so it may be that this is going to be expensive. Has anybody done this job? What should be a fuel pump life anyway?
  9. Hello Bruce, I'm a newcomer to Jabs, but have a lot of time on Rotax 912 which uses same carbs I tend to view Hoses as an 'on condition' component carb overhaul for the bings If I havn't touched them in 5 years then I will take apart and replace anything needed )Diaphragms I change regardless of how they look). Carb Socket I will also change if it has lasted 5 years (in my experience some can go bad much sooner) I use only Ethanol free fuel, if using fuel with Ethanol id be looking very regularly at my hoses and carb floats Jabiru Fuel pump is a bit of an unknown to me right now
  10. My latest worry is about if these things should be overhauled. Has anybody done this ? There are various directives about rubber bits having lives of 2 to 5 years. On a sustainer engined glider I once serviced, all the hoses had to be replaced at 2 years, even though they all looked new to me. I guess that the writers of the directive assume that the worst-kept glider ( tied down outside in the sun ) determines what the rest have to do. In the meantime, although there has been the odd AD or two, overhauling the carb and fuel pump are not in the maintenance schedules that I have noticed.
  11. Yeah the donk I have has the NGK Iridium's, I re gapped them at 0.25 thou, they where around 0.30, runs well.
  12. Yep. Someone on this forum bought a job lot for a bunch of us a few years back. I removed them for inspection last week, after years of good service, then put them back.
  13. Flightrite I am running Iridium plugs in a 2200. I fitted them as I was changing to resistor plugs to tackle some interference and decided to use Iridium resistor plugs to counter possible harder starting due to extra resistance They seem to be performing well with easy starts
  14. Not directly subject related but is anyone running iridium plugs in their Jab donks?
  15. Annoying much younger days in the 70s I used to play with Holden V8 a 4.2 litre V8. If you put to bigger Holly on it the performance was less than if you put a smaller Holly on it. A lot to do with turbulence and mixing of the fuel and air.
  16. Sometimes a wide open throttle will allow Laminar flow in the inlet manifold, sometimes the air/ fuel mixture will wall attach, either way you will have a ahot lean stream with a cool rich mixture. The heat from lean mixture is two fold owing to the flame front bring so much slower that your crank is not in the best position for absorption of the hot gas energy etc. Maybe put a small obstruction just after the carburettor to get good mixture. Also use a carbon monoxide Meyer in the exhaust and time engine to a barely perceptible reading. Impossible to tell without instrumentation.
  17. Has your fuel consumption increased? If it hasn't it would indicate that your efforts to increase cooling with extra fuel haven't worked. A fuel flow gauge should show this if you have one.
  18. The CHT's should be less at wide open throttle ( WOT) because of the cooling due to all that fuel exceeding the extra heat from all the power. In my case, the climb CHT was higher with WOT. So, having a nice set of number drills, I opened out the jet just a tiny bit. This seemed to help a bit, but not that much, so I opened it out again with the next drill bit. It still doesn't run cooler at WOT and I am too chicken to do the opening trick again. Any ideas?
  19. I run 90-100 Cyl temp 640 EGT, runs like a Swiss watch the old 2200, 485 hrs? I run a Navman 2100 fuel flow gauge, from the marine industry, best thing since they invented GOS?
  20. On a flight to Swan Hill today at 6500 ft these are my temps with the mixture adjusted before adjusting the mixtures my EGT was 660, my adjusted limit is 710 c . I might say it was very cold up there . The way my carburettor is jetted and at altitude I can get 19 lph 106/110 knts 2600/2700 rpm. Oops file to big but EGT 710 cht 130 highest temps
  21. Thanks old K. I didn't know about extra usage at altitude. I reckon this will need some flying to investigate. And I agree about a gauge. I find it harder these days to turn and see the last 20 l of fuel in the tank.
  22. The cost of fuel is the cheapest part of flying.
  23. I agree with Paul: the carb doesn't adjust much for higher altitudes. I routinely see 11 lph or less at 85kt, but climbing over bad weather can burn heaps more. I once had to land to refuel because, on top of the 23 lph at WOT, there's the extra rich burn because of thinner air. As others have said, it's a petrol-cooled engine, so don't go overboard trying to get the best economy; it may end up costing you heaps.
  24. I operate a 2200 solid job wth a carbon fiber prop in a small single seater. 2900 rpm I get 12.3 LPH, I flight plan 15LPH, fuel is the cheap part of flying! I also keep 1 hr Fixed res. A FF gauge is a must in any aircraft, well for me anyway.
  25. With Covid19 having an impact on our flying (not in SA though for private owners) and when we come out of it the financial environment may not be too friendly to flying (I am down 15% on Super) I am most pleased to have a Jab in the hangar. It is so frugal that I plan on 12 litres per hour. Further to this I run 98, with a saving of 50 to 80 cents per litre depending on the cycle. Today I filled up and saved $1 per litre, $12 per hour! I see that the latest Jab 2.2 are to use about 15L/H but everybody I have spoken to with a Gen 1 use a similar amount to me. My in flight usage is actually 11
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