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JabSP6

How to improve the reliability of the 6 Cylinder Jab

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Well,since this post is about improving Jab reliability ,my 3300 is coming up to oil change time and was going to change up to Aeroshell W100 +,after using the recommended straight W100 due to the new barrels and pistons being fitted.Now knowing these oils are considered as just "hinge oil"in the "air cooled" motorcycle world (i used to own a Commando) i would be interested to hear from anyone successfully using higher grade oils in there Jabirus . If you're inclined to follow up on the link of the oil tests it's 51 pages,but he seems to have done a pretty good job of it.

 

Follower scar oil tests

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I use Aeroshell W100+ in my Gen 3 3300A and it seems fine. I change oil every 25 hours along with a new filter. Total cost is about $45.00. The oil stays clean though out and I always have to put the dipstick on a paper towel to find the level as I can't see it on the dipstick. 3 quarts of oil and no topups in 25 hours works for me. My normal cruise is at 2800-2850 rpm & 17-18 lph. The W100+ has a corrosion inhibitor which is a good idea with the Gen 3 steel bores. I see no reason to pay $18.00 a quart for some fancy oil that does the same job as the $10.00 a quart oil.

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Aero engines are not racing engines. Aero oils are certified to meet a standard that is consistent and they are not expensive. Before anyone blames an oil they should/have to identify just what it's NOT doing properly. The common problems with aircooled engines are ring grove carboning and camshaft galling scuffing corroding. I suggest the W-100 plus is the "safest" oil to run in a jab with the proviso of in very cold starts you need to warm up carefully and the starter will be sluggish with the genuine 50 weight oil.. IF you consistently operate in colder parts run the multigrade. version. This is also what Jabiru recommend .It's also formulated for avgas 100 LL... Nev

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Oil is only as good as the additives added to it. All base oil stock currently produced, is pretty well guaranteed to be relatively even, in todays worlds of modern catalytic cracking in refineries, and synthetic oils.

It's not like the old days, when the origins of the basic crude, was what guaranteed a "good" oil, or a "bad" oil.

In those far-off days, Pennsylvania crude was the world standard, and there were a lot of inferior crudes from other countries that contained a lot of "nasty" products, such as high levels of sulphur, salts, water, waxes, heavy metals, and suspended solids.

As a result, the oil industry uses the terms, "sweet" crude, and "sour" crude. The terms came simply from the fact that early oil drillers actually tasted the crude oil from the well, to see if it tasted sweet or sour.

The drillers also smelled it, to determine if it was "sweet" or "sour".

 

Pennsylvania crude was "sweet" crude - "sour" crude contains over 0.5% sulphur and needs additional refining, adding to refined oil production costs.

You can still get easily "sour" crude, but it brings lower prices, and the refineries will often blend it with "sweet" crude to enable lower refined product production costs.

 

There are on average, 7 additives added to the refined base oil stock, to produce the product you buy from the oil companies and oil suppliers.

These are - anti-corrosion inhibitors, anti-foaming agents, anti-wear agents, oxidation inhibitors, dispersants, detergents, and oil viscosity improvers (which are high-viscosity long chain polymers).

All these additives have individual jobs to do in oil, which all add up to keeping the oils lubricating ability in the range where the engine operates in, and to treat the undesirable by-products of combustion.

 

Each oil type is specifically formulated to the engine application, ambient temperature range of operation, and the severity of use.

Paying a lot more money for a supposedly superior oil is not always the best option.

There's a lot of marketing hype in the sales of lubricating oil, as evidenced by smooth advertising, highly attractive packaging, and product description wording that runs into the showmans area of expertise.

 

The only way we consumers can gauge an oils performance, is how well it does its job on the motorised equipment we own.

If you are getting sludge buildup, gums and varnishes on engine components, and engine damage that can be sheeted home to lubrication failures, then it's time to upgrade your lubricating oil to one with proven superior additives.

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On 03/07/2019 at 8:21 PM, kgwilson said:

I use Aeroshell W100+ in my Gen 3 3300A and it seems fine. I change oil every 25 hours along with a new filter. Total cost is about $45.00. The oil stays clean though out and I always have to put the dipstick on a paper towel to find the level as I can't see it on the dipstick. 3 quarts of oil and no topups in 25 hours works for me. My normal cruise is at 2800-2850 rpm & 17-18 lph. The W100+ has a corrosion inhibitor which is a good idea with the Gen 3 steel bores. I see no reason to pay $18.00 a quart for some fancy oil that does the same job as the $10.00 a quart oil.

Thanks for the replies all,17-18 lph  that's very good i'm  not seeing that.Lame up here suggests straight Aeroshell 100 with Camguard added same as he uses on Cessnas etc that they routinely service.

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What do Cessna specify. I thought they approved W100 plus.

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