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bobcharl

A Savannah for Southern NSW

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ADVICE REQUESTED!!!!!

 

Re my earlier post (1 Oct 2012) about the overhead lexan panel and the blind I have made to block out the sun.

 

Was flying a Jab the other day and took the trouble to look at the extra visability that would be available if the roof was clear. Seemed to me that the extra visability may not be of great advantage as where I really needed to see, especially in the circuit, seemed to be right through the wing. Which brings me back to my original thoughts about painted lexan or a metal roof.

 

Heres where I need the advice: (a) Has anyone used an alu roof on a VG XL and was it easy to fit?

 

(b) Has anyone painted the lexan (assuming lexan can be painted) and what shade? I am assuming it would need to be a dark colour to block the radiant heat.

 

© What was the outcome of either of the above? Did it solve the heat issue? Perhaps my blind is still an option?

 

All opinions appreciated.

 

Bob

 

 

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Hi Bob

 

I got my lexan covered in the car window film it had the highest UV blocking you can get and was the max darkness for vehicles. I can still see through it and do not get sunburnt through it at all also there is hardly any heat coming from it. It cost 100 bucks and I can still see through it like the idiot in the gyro a few months back if I didnt have the clear roof I would not have seen him and I am sure we would have had a midair it was that close when I took evasive action. So I am glad I can see through mine and the film just makes it the best.

 

 

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This pic doesnt really show it as it was taken at night but the tint is reasonably dark it is maybe slightly more than legal but I got it for the UV blocking. I have over 50 hrs on the Sav and all flying done on sunny days basically and never had any hint of sunburn anywhere on me

 

IMG_1538_1.jpg.e6d2cdc2fe3da088d4ce6e4dc6577289.jpg

 

 

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Hi Bob

 

Regarding your request for advice -

 

I put a fully clear roof on my first plane, a Sav classic with the slats, back when they came in alu with a little trapezoid shaped window. I thought the all clear roof would be good for visibility etc. but later I hated it because it got so damn hot under it on long flights, especially in summer, so I ended up putting the origional back in with one of those stick on shades on the window.

 

Later on I have put an aluminium roof on a VGXL, From memory I used 20 or 25 thou 2024 sheet and just used the plastic roof as a template. On the underside I insulated with 16mm black sponge rubber from Clarke Rubber, then covered with the grey light weight carpet. Worked well, no burnt head or sun reflection on instrument faces. I also did another one with an alu roof but with the smaller window insert like the older Sav's had. I have seen painted lexan as well so that can be done, but I would prefer the alu replacement instead.

 

Hope this helps

 

Rick

 

 

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Hi All,

 

A little more progress lately. Have started the second wing which is the last main component to be done, but have run out of rivets. I was hundreds short. While I was waiting for them I decided to backtrack a bit and fit the tips to the stab and elevator which I had left until assembly. Following the good advice of others I decided to fit them with rivnuts to facilitate removal later if required. Best way I could find of transferring the hole locations in the supporting strips to the plastic tip (and it would be the same if they were riveted ) was to securely fix a piece of clear plastic film (same stuff as used for laminating documents) to the main structure overlapping the row of holes. Then drill through the plastic film into the holes. Lift the film and insert the tip into place underneath the film and drill through the holes already in the film. Works like a charm. Then the holes in the supporting strip can be enlarged to take the rivnuts. I found this was best done using a step drill because they do not drift off centre the way a conventional drill tends to. Hope this may be of use to someone.

 

Regards,

 

Bob

 

88817531_IMGP3516(Medium).JPG.bb9e9a16b85bb637eeb49f4ca4aacd1f.JPG

 

1649447964_IMGP3515(Medium).JPG.a8dff914d3d850f0c0001aa54ff3606b.JPG

 

1058572377_IMGP3518(Medium).JPG.b928b5e2c7f92c178212da33f4357725.JPG

 

 

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Hi All,A little more progress lately. Have started the second wing which is the last main component to be done, but have run out of rivets. I was hundreds short. While I was waiting for them I decided to backtrack a bit and fit the tips to the stab and elevator which I had left until assembly. Following the good advice of others I decided to fit them with rivnuts to facilitate removal later if required. Best way I could find of transferring the hole locations in the supporting strips to the plastic tip (and it would be the same if they were riveted ) was to securely fix a piece of clear plastic film (same stuff as used for laminating documents) to the main structure overlapping the row of holes. Then drill through the plastic film into the holes. Lift the film and insert the tip into place underneath the film and drill through the holes already in the film. Works like a charm. Then the holes in the supporting strip can be enlarged to take the rivnuts. I found this was best done using a step drill because they do not drift off centre the way a conventional drill tends to. Hope this may be of use to someone.

 

Regards,

 

Bob

 

[ATTACH]21128[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]21127[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]21126[/ATTACH]

BC: Good advice!

 

 

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I cut up old 2lt milk containers, just translucent enough to see where you need the hole and really cheap.

 

 

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The other thing I made to locate holes was a plastic key with a hole for the drill bit. Place the key over the hole and insert the drill bit into the hole. Mark the outline of the key onto the adjacent surface with marker pen/sharpie. Line your bits together and then place the key into position and drill the hole or mark it with a marker/sharpie.

 

 

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G'day All,

 

Well I am back after a rather long absence for reasons which had nothing to do with aviation.Great news about the 600kg upgrade, looks simple in the extreme, but can't figure out how two extra holes in the strut mounting plates makes the whole thing stronger, even with a plate in between, but then I'm no aeronautical engineer. Installation will be easy, but I wonder how easy will it be dealing with RAAus.

 

Second wing now nears completion (as the pic shows)then its back to the cabin to install the windscreen.I'm obtaining a different rubber sealing strip for the lower edge which should be much better than the one supplied. Then to cover the panel top and mount the compass. Does anyone have a method of mounting a compass to give a reasoable degree of accuracy?

 

More posts later.

 

Bob1973860130_IMGP3545(Medium).JPG.e8fc3ed241b7d2c618accc591004c1ec.JPG

 

 

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Hi Bob

 

I didnt recieve your address details....I went through my junk folder after I read this message and found it my email program since the last software update seems to be more aggressive I am finding emails there that shouldn't be there...I will get it tomorrow for you.

 

My compass is a vertical card one and it is mounted on the top of the dash towards the front edge..it doesn't seem to be afected by any stray magnetism there

 

 

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Mark,

 

Thanks mate . Your help is much appreciated.

 

Would have liked a vertical card compass, but had to economize somewhere.If the magnetic one is not satisfactory I can still change later.

 

Bob

 

 

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The problem with the std compass is the usual wavering from side to side they are a pain in the you know what...The vertical compass is much better it is still magnetic of course it just transfers the reading to a vertical one instead of the stupid ball type one. I got the rubber today will get it in the mail for you

 

 

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Hi All,

 

A red letter day today, installed the Rotax! There is certainly no spare room when manouvering it into the ring mount. In the end had to slightly modify the bracket supporting the electronics at the top right rear to provide clearance. Everything else looks OK but I haven't gone any further than to connect the hoses to the water pump.

 

I am preparing the tail feathers for painting and in between coats will work on the windcsreen and then the motor.

 

Just noticed tonight when doing some trial fitting that the area on the fin which bolts to the bracket rivetted on top of the stabilizer seems to have the two nuts rivetted on a hole too high. The diagram in the manual shows them as I have fitted them and the size of the holes would indicate this position also. They would not be too hard to shift so long as doing so does not put the fin out of alignment with respect to the rudder hinges. Has anyone else had this problem?

 

Regards,

 

Bob

 

1398222087_IMGP3577(Medium).JPG.628043e4776590f3b078aff9904d1040.JPG

 

132742671_IMGP3572(Medium).JPG.8f802003854e15b9998c8c04df7fcd20.JPG

 

1936722878_IMGP3574(Medium).JPG.ede3766936b1d6b4deb2d0b88625abd9.JPG

 

1820177034_IMGP3575(Medium).JPG.0a46d007edffc04dc9e6f0f7be2cbcb3.JPG

 

 

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Hi All,

 

Sorted the problem with my ill-fitting fin. Spoke to the guru and it turns out its not a problem at all. Seems the skin on the fin is a bit oversize and needs to be trimmed to form a neat fit over the stab. when the edging strip is applied. Why couldn't the manual explain that?

 

Gettin a little bit of painting done along with some plumbing on the motor. Its been too cold for painting ideally,( 10 deg max sometimes) but I have been using some fast hardener and it seems to be OK.

 

Taking a break for a few weeks and going up the Qld coast in search of some warmer weather.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob.

 

1111714777_IMGP3581(Medium).JPG.6ae65279e5fdd382a5b3d320a43bb005.JPG

 

 

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Hi,

 

Back again after an enjoyable few weeks in sunny Qld. You Qld-ers really know how to turn on some beautiful weather.Great to catch up with Mark K. and Mark G. again and to see their finished aircraft, which I had not seen since mid construction. A pair of very attractive Savannahs indeed, and you should both be proud of them. Also pleased to meet "Cosmic", nice to now be able to put a face to a name on the forum.

 

Back in the workshop, I have been making lots of work for myself. Decided to make an extension on the rudder,not an original idea by any means, but I don't think it is patented. Had a few attempts before I got the metalwork to look half respectable, but the real fun started in coming up with a new tip. Thought I would get the original rudder and fin tips welded together and found a plastic welder who reckoned he could do the job, but all he did was botch the whole thing up. Ended up getting some advice on fibreglassing, which I knew nothing about, and made a mold and created a fibreglass tip which doesn,t look too bad. But the whole thing took so much more time than I anticipated in the beginning, that there were many times that I would have scrapped the idea if I had still had my original rudder and fin tips. It will really need to have some benifits come flying time!

 

Have fitted the cabin roof after having to seal the original holes and re-drill it along the two diagonals. With all the more complex aspects that ICP does a great job of, one has to wonder how they get such simple things wrong. The windsreen has been on and off several times and I think it is about ready for a final fit.

 

Just waiting for some fine weather to get some more painting done.

 

Regards,

 

Bob

 

929289292_IMGP3839(Medium).JPG.18c6819fd66720e471594f18ba7cd806.JPG

 

676430049_IMGP3837(Medium).JPG.01f316ce4d2ed0f3f4e4ef1b196aa31c.JPG

 

 

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The rudder extension parts are available from thw factory, their tip is very narrow and made of fibreglass, must have taken them a lot longer to make than they anticipated too, judging by the price, Reg said the tip alone was 50 Euro so the rest must have been fairly inexpensive all coming to just under $200 when supplied with my kit. The fibreglass tip is very slender compared to the two Reg has made by welding the existing caps together. DSCF1008.JPG.d07c0507bcf64c7b072901c94990c948.JPG

 

1937045566_Andthefunbegins.jpg.5361daf63c663c436972aea450ab6d2f.jpg

 

 

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now guys no need to show off yours is bigger than mine thingys

You know you would love to repaint your extended rudder too. The riveting is the easy part.

 

 

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Yes RA, only found out about the ICP option after I had my metalwork done, and then I was committed to making my own tip. At $200 I dont think I made very good wages! The fact that ICP have picked this up should indicate that it has some benefits in the handling of the aircraft. I know some had complained about lack of rudder authority in low speed, high AoA, configurations.About the only negative comment I have heard about Savs.

 

Bob

 

 

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This is one very few "improvements" made to the classic Savannah before calling it the BRM land africa. They made the extension a little bit shorter but otherwise the same. Only one example in Australia now in WA I think.

 

 

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Hi Rank, I am sure you will have lots of fun!

 

Keep us up to date. Are you thinking of starting a "A Savannah for Southern NSW" thread?

 

 

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Hi Rank, I am sure you will have lots of fun!

Keep us up to date. Are you thinking of starting a "A Savannah for Southern NSW" thread?

It would be a long time between updates. Most people on here know how a savannah goes together by now. I am still learning thing too, I was hoping to do a build with-out drilling any rivets out, that lasted two days.

 

 

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