Guest rocketdriver Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Moorabbin aviation Mueum has a total of 5 Gypsy Queen series 30 mk2 engines, 4 of which are said to have come off the Heron Prototype and to have been overhauled and inhibited. Having been asked to see if we can get one to a ground running state, how can I tell if it has been inhibited? We have no paperwork!! Even so, will the engine need a full strip?? Opinions, (offers of help) and INFORMATION gratefully recieved! cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly_tornado Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 have a look at the spark plugs! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Koreelah Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Borescopes (TV cam on flexible probe) are pretty common. I bought one on the net. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keenaviator Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Pretty sure I've shown this before but this is a boroscope video of my Jabbie 2200 that has been stored for quite some time. Looks pretty good to me. Laurie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Maj Millard Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Inhibiting oil often will smell and look different to normal engine lubricating oil. It should have a clear and unused look, and possibly be of a lighter viscosity to a normal engine oil. Remove the spark plugs and either with a bore scope, or a bright torch ascertain if there is oil coating the bore surface. Proper inhibiting oil should stay attached , or at least coat the bore walls. If you drain it , it will be less in quantity then the normal oil capacity generally also............Maj.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgwilson Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 The stuff that Camit use is blue & quite viscous. It sticks to vertical surfaces well, a bit like chain oil. When I took the carb off to install the probe it was even present in the thoat & dripped on to the floor so they must stick it everywhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 I think the process has to be refreshed if the time is extended. There should be hygroscopic plugs in the plug holes, (one each cylinder) which change colour when they are not working .Have a look in each cylinder with a boroscope. If it looks good there should be no reason to not turn it, but I would pressurise the oil galleries first and remove the valve covers and put the correct oil there and do the clearances and check all valves free. Pistons sitting in the same place for a long time may not want to start moving too easy at first. If you have any doubt, pull the worst looking cylinder off and inspect it's condition for a general indication of what the rest are like. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest burty Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 It was common to attach a label to oil filler cap saying eng inhibited and oil to be changed prior to eng run. Also log book if available should have details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
facthunter Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 It's a dry sump inverted motor and I doubt that much oil would be in it. Diverting the initial return oil would get rid of contamination. Nev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rocketdriver Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 :clap:and to everyone to date ....Thanks to your contributions, I am coming to know the sort of thing to look for when I get to finally access the engines (they are locked away at the moment in a shed for which no one has a key!). Hopefully next week (too HOT this week!) .... cheers Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 The stuff that Camit use is blue & quite viscous. It sticks to vertical surfaces well, a bit like chain oil. When I took the carb off to install the probe it was even present in the thoat & dripped on to the floor so they must stick it everywhere. Sound a bit like air cleaner element oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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