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Marty_d

Marty d's CH-701 build log

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I used to go to Adelaide for work occasionally with colleagues from all over the country.

 

It was funny when there was a nice 25 degree day - all the Tasmanians were in shorts, the Queenslanders had jumpers on.

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Hi all,

 

I'm planning the panel layout.  So far (as below) I'm just putting the main flight instruments at the top and engine instruments below.

 

Has anyone got any advice about this?  It's 20+ years since I've sat in the left hand seat so hints & tips from more current aviators would be welcome.

 

Cheers!

 

 

Panel screenshot.jpg

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ASI would normally be on the left, ditch the VSI for a glass (G5) attitude indicator. 

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Marty  I reckon place the 4 large in a group on left side - 2 on top row and 2 below. In center or slightly to center have room for mini tablet.  If possible have radio display above top of tablet. Then engine instruments and others on right with usb outlets. The GT 50 is a good guage for clock, timber,  voltage, OAT etc.

Cheers Mike

 

Edited by Blueadventures

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Marty, here's my standard Sav panel and instruments as supplied (prior to placarding).

Given the type of flying, I wanted the ASI and Slip right under my nose (I bought a decent slip rather than using the one supplied).

It made sense to me to have the trim where it could be operated with hand on throttle (not that that's a big issue).

And I wanted the radio up where I could see it, I'm also told that being able to steady my hand on the top of the dash while changing channels in bumpy weather is good.

The master switch for the avionics I put directly under the avionics, and the on/off switch for copilot comms is right next to the radio, which makes sense to me.

Oil pressure and temp are grouped together, as are R & L coolant temps.

 

If I was building again, I would probably be looking at Engibox or similar to replace the engine instruments. I like the idea that you can set alarm points, also that you can log the various values. And I'm all for decluttering.

DSCF2066.JPG
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Same again with placarding. The CAA love their placarding...

Required CO indicator card covers spare hole at far right (the Sav heater is from the exhaust jacket).

The XL and S have more panel than the VG. ICP spread the instruments right across it........

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On 01/11/2019 at 7:50 PM, Blueadventures said:

Marty  I reckon place the 4 large in a group on left side - 2 on top row and 2 below. In center or slightly to center have room for mini tablet.  If possible have radio display above top of tablet. Then engine instruments and others on right with usb outlets. The GT 50 is a good guage for clock, timber,  voltage, OAT etc.

Cheers Mike

 

Hi Marty this is what i'm describing.   I would ditch the 3 1/8" tacho and get a 2 1/4" one you only need to refer to the rpm and the small size ' instrument is enough.  (Also place in a top row and close to your vision. mine is next on other side of the tablet.) That way you can place a 3 1/8"  'Turn and bank' or one of the nice 'AHR' and other info instruments any time.  Hope this helps your deciding.   Also keep the radio and transponder up high on panel.

 

 

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Sounds like you guys are pretty much in agreement with the layout.

 

I think leaving a space in the middle either for a tablet or something else (compass maybe) is a good idea.

 

I was considering a glove box on the passenger's side but perhaps will forget that.  There's a bloody large baggage area behind the seats anyway which due to weight restrictions will never be fully filled.

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23 hours ago, Kyle Communications said:

Marty look at the MGL EMS-2 that will save you a heap of panel space and money on gauges

 

Blaze EMS-2.pdf 2.54 MB · 12 downloads

Hi Mark,

 

Looks like a good unit but I already have all the instruments displayed on the drawing (tacho, cylinder head x 2, oil temp, voltage, plus the flight ones).

So I may as well use them.  There's not much else I'm going to put on with the possible exception of a small tablet, radio and compass, so I should have enough panel space if the engine instruments are on the right.

Besides it's USD$455 + freight for the unit plus a heap of extras for all the senders etc, probably $1,000 or more AU by the time it gets here.    

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No other aviation stuff is cheaper here - hardware etc is far cheaper to buy direct from Aircraft Spruce if you can work out all the things you need.

 

I bought cable thimbles and copper sleeves from ASAP aircraft as I'd forgotten them with my Aircraft Spruce order.  Would have cost $US 7.20 if I got them from the US (before postage), it cost AU $45 before postage to get them from QLD.

 

It'd be great to shop locally but not when stuff is 4 times the price.

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Well this is normally something you wouldn't want to see - but I was extremely happy that the cable broke instead of pulling free of the sleeve, and at what I consider a reasonable strain (842 kg/f).

 

I did a 1.4m test piece with the eyes and sleeves I plan to use for the plane.  Crimping was just done with the manual (bolt-cutter style) crimper - 3 crimps as per the plans.

 

Testing was done at Brierley Lifting Supplies here in Hobart, it cost me the princely sum of $10.40 and I got to watch!

 

The longest part was for the bloke to find shackles small enough to connect through the eyes.  I get the feeling that most of their testing involves larger sizes...

 

Gives me confidence to go ahead and run the control cables now.

 

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Yes......you'd have to have fat feet to get anywhere near that sort of number.....)

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40 minutes ago, IBob said:

Yes......you'd have to have fat feet to get anywhere near that sort of number.....)

 

Very easy actually. a supported person, using leg mutiplied by the leverage ratio of the pedal.

 

So an average person, 70 kgs, can push 2 x body weight easy, (a fit person 3 to 4 x), lets say 6:1 pedal ratio, 140kgs x 6 =  840kgs!

 

 

 

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The 701 pedal ratio is 1:1, the cables being attached to the sides of the pedals at the same height as the pedal bars.

 

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13 minutes ago, IBob said:

The 701 pedal ratio is 1:1, the cables being attached to the sides of the pedals at the same height as the pedal bars.

 

Fair 'nuff, I'm not aware of every model plane out there, but other have ratio.

 

Anyway, you ruined my attemp to put fear into Marty!

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Oh, don't worry Bex, there's still plenty of fear to go around.  It's just good to know that the old DIY crimping isn't going to give way.

 

I do like these sleeves - they're a lot fatter than the ones you get to hold your verandah wires from Bunnings.

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I can now move the stick and see the elevators move!

(By standing in front and leaning in through the non-existent windscreen while looking back.  Couldn't see it from inside.)

 

Made up the elevator cables and got them hooked up.  Reasonably tight tension on them.  Need to disconnect and enlarge the slot at the front of the HS as there's slight contact with the cable, also need to install a small bungee inside which holds the cables apart where they cross.  And need to rivet the aft fairlead.  Oh, and check the elevator throws - may have to enlist a wifely helper to move the stick while I measure them.

 

But it was exciting to see them move.

 

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So some cables have been hooked up.  Removed all obstructions with the elevator cables and refitted (had to remove HS to enlarge the slot - lucky it's only 4 bolts!)

 

Put the rudder back on and got onto the rudder cables next.  Had to enlarge the fuselage slots substantially, not sure why the plans show them so small - would have rubbed the cable to buggery.

 

So the rudder cables are on from the rudder all the way through ready to be crimped at the pedal end.  I used shackles on the rudder (thanks M61!) but will use  the 0.040" plates with AN3-5 bolts at the pedal in order to get the tension right.

 

Still need 2 more fairleads and to rivet the one on the HT, then I can put the fin on.

 

 

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Edited by Marty_d
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If they do the hinging the same on the sav for the fin and rudder my advice is to fit the rudder to the fin BEFOR you put it on...its a nightmare if you dont...you need 15 fingers and 3 tongues to hold while you are trying to do it. That way you only struggle with the bottom hinge while on the ground not standing a on a step ladder

 

 

Edited by Kyle Communications

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