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Kyle Communications

My Savannah S model rebuild Blog

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Just be careful when fitting the plates. The rudder pedals are not parallel so when in level rudder the right side pedals will be leaning forward and the left side lean back so the brake covers need to be fitted at the correct angle so they are then equally flat when in level position. I didnt think about that and had to do some panel beating on mine to make them the same angle. Because I made the covers in a U and with the holes in them I could reshape them to make them level. Once set then I pulled the pedals out as I was going to paint inside but I think not now. I will just carpet it instead with the lightweight stuff I used before. So I will mount them back in before I put the boot cowl on the top.

 

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I did my first one a different way. It was a lot more  involved than this way. Just be mindfull of the angles of the covers and the angles of the brake foot levers

 

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9 hours ago, Marty_d said:

Hi Mark,

 

I like the rudder pedal extensions.  I'm installing mine at the moment - just ran the rods between pedals and noseleg - and I was sitting in it yesterday testing the pedals.  Trouble is you can't help but move the brake pedals when operating the rudder, which is not ideal.  (My rudder pedals are from a Sav so same setup as yours).

 

Think I'll get my local TIG welding bloke to add a plate to mine too, similar to what you have there.

Marty, FWIW:

A while ago, and when this came up previously, I asked Mark to measure the pedals on his XL, before and after his mod. I compared those measures to the pedals in my (late 2014) kit, and the size of mine fell between Mark's 2 measurements. In other words, ICP had extended the pedals (thoUgh not by a great amount, as I recall).

My build is yet to leave the ground, but sitting in it, with heels on the floor, I have no trouble keeping clear of the brakes.

To some degree, this must (also) be down to the adjustment of the steering rods, which will cause the pedals and brakes to tilt more or less towards the pilot...

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Got the front covers made for my new seating arrangement tonight. Pretty happy with the way they have come out. They are 0.016 so nice and light just have to fit some nutserts in so they can be removed if needed also alodinedIMG_7530.thumb.jpg.a0f6a4c5cf379d153a34cc1f3d96b75c.jpg58798192628__DDB43E0B-2470-4392-A0AE-733324E6CAB6.thumb.jpg.8f8206822a3bf4bb4c51593e5e08adbf.jpgIMG_7529.thumb.jpg.0a33f961efadd131cca5dce9ae9d7fd2.jpg

. Firewall is pretty much complete at the moment just waiting for the rudder pedals and engine mount to come back from the powder coaters then I can get both of these mounted and continue on to getting the nosewheel steering and all the bottom stuff in then the UC can go on and I can get it on its wheels with the engine on the front to keep the nose on the ground. Then it will go out into the carport for a bit while I pull the other wing apart. Still working on the new fuel tank. Got the 3D modeling done to get the pattern to cut the tubes to be a nice fit for tig welding

 

449056290_ScreenShot2019-08-08at8_57_04am.thumb.jpg.247dc440c9be59892e0228530360ba9a.jpg388899585_ScreenShot2019-08-20at10_02_14pm.thumb.png.07e63b698c878122734cac2aa6b28ab4.png

 

 

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Being doing prep work during the week getting things made and drawings done. The noseleg on the Sav is really weak and so is the firewall attachments at the bottom. My XL has a similar mod done but this takes it a little further. The new flat cross section that butts up against the firewall is anchored by rivets away from the main noseleg support bracket. The bracket is shaped at the front with 2 folds to make it super strong and its made from 1mm 6061 T6 it also has a fold at the rear this makes the braket super strong. The bottom noseleg bracket is all bolted through to this plate and the plate also takes up the bolt for the bottom of the engine mount. The pictures should show it all. The fuel tank is coming along. Used Fusion 360 to draw it up in 3D modelling and then turned it to sheet metal so I could print this on some paper and attach it to the tube to get the correct cut angles. Cut the 100mm tube with a jigsaw then used a carbide burr to clean it up. Pretty happy with the fit to the large tube now just have to use that 100mm tube to make and cut the main large tube. Pedals and engine mount are back from powder coaters and looks pretty goo. Just have to mount it and drill the firewall then it comes off and I can paint the firewall then put the mount back on and think about getting the noseleg and wheel ready and also the main undercarriage then she can go onto the wheels. I think I will install the motor on as well so I dont have to have any weight on the nose. Next will be painting some of the runners at the inside at the front then think about doing the carpet now as its a lot easier. I will just put plastic over it to stop it getting too much crap on it

 

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On another matter. My Rans S21 Outbound kit is being loaded today on the ship in Longbeach USA. I comes to Brisbane via Taiwan would you believe. Due here around the 30th of September so exciting times :). Its in a 40ft container with another S21 and a S20 and other bits for another guy. Hopefully there wont be any dramas but its all insured for the trip just in case..there is a lot of money in that container. 

Mabel will have to be pretty close to finished before I can start on the S21 and hopefully "The Girlfriend" gets sold soon as I will need the hangar to assemble Mabel in and that leaves this workshop here clear to start on the Rans

 

Edited by Kyle Communications
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Been working on Mabel when I have had a chance this past week or so. Been doing other stuff farm related.

 

Got the rear wing spar plate fitted so I can start finishing the skins on the right wing. I have used a few stainless 4mm bolts and nylocks here plus the rivets. Its a very major attachment point so I think a few bolts are a good idea. Again no wings have fallen off savannahs but this adds pretty much no weight but makes the joint so much stronger

 

Started to prepare the ribs for the Dskins. I put tape under the rib flanges to block the rivet holes then when the skin gets pulled over I squeeze some hysol epoxy into the skin holes this then goes down and hits the ribs and spreads over the rib. This fills the gaps that are left between the ribs and the skin. Once the epoxy has gone off I redrill all the holes and then rivet the skin to the rib. I then remove the tape off the ribs through the holes in the spar but from the rear. This stops all the indents that you cant stop that you see in all the savannah wings...except mine on the girlfriend of course as I did this to her and its been perfect. I really dont think it improves the performance but it certainly looks a lot better. The row of rivets behind the spar are also another bad area for this. I have seen a couple of people that cut a 1.6 mm thick by around 15mm wide strip of alu made the full length of the top of the spar and fill that area to stop the large pull in that occurs here as well. You dont need to do anything with the underside of the front Dskin as the rivets always pull the skin nicely here and its the underside of the wing so you dont really see it anyway

 

Another thing I have to do you is cut a 3mm thick by 10mm wide and tap a heap of holes in it that will be sikaflexed to the spar where thetank skins go over the spar. These are riveted usually but I do a 4mm thread for each hole in the spar and use bolts to clamp the tank skin to the wing skin and spar. This way if you ever get a tank leak you can get to the tanks easily but totally removing the tank covers. Again 4mm stainless dome head bolts are used here. The rest of the holes for the tank covers will have 3mm nutserts fitted...its a bugger of a job though but if you ever have to remove these covers and you have riveted them its a right royal pain. You need to be doing this anyway every 5 years to replace your fuel hoses and to inspect the tanks

 

 

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I wasnt happy with my build table being level and flat enough to make sure the wing is true. Even though its clecoed together mostly it wasnt true it had a slight twist in it although the front Dskin wasnt on but I needed to come up with something more reliable and static. I beetled on down to my local steel supplier this morning and bough some 1.2 and 1.4mtr offcuts of 65mm sq by 1.6mm wall gal steel tube and got them to cut a full 8 mtr length the same size in half to give me 2 of 4mtr lengths. I placed the long lengths over the supports on my table and could see it wasnt level by a few mm in the middle so I jacked up the large supports for the table and fitted a couple of extra legs but this was done first by using a laser level. This is only a cheapish one about 100 bucks its a digital and analogue level but it has a laser in the end of it. I place the level at one end of the long tube and measures the height of the laser above the tube then marked this onto a small piece of alu. I then sighted this height all the way along and yes it was out so I jacked the middle support up until the laser dot was on the middle of the mark so the table via the steel tube is perfectly flat. The 4 smaller lengths of tube go across the large tubes and I measuered the angle of them across each and they were the same so this means using the steel as a base the wing support will be perfectly flat and no twist.

 

You can see how I did it in the pictures. To keep the wing perfectly flat the underside of the ribs on the sav wing are rounded so you need to pick a point along the trailing edge spar to make flat then also the spar. I  used a some 19mm square alu tube to sit up against the trailing edge as a packer and this keep the ribs from telling lies about how level the wing is again you should see these in the pictures. I put the D skin on the bottom clecoded to the spar and the bottom of the ribs and started with 2 straps to wrap the skin around the ribs. My skins I had prebent a bit to make it easier as these are 0.020 skins not the 0.016 as std. I used wood rail slippers both were 75x35 to help pull the skin around and also had a length up against the trailing edge of the wing so it didnt crush or deform the trailing edge and this wood was higher than the rear edge so provided clearance for the straps.

 

Been looking at the skin gap to the ribs and with the 0.020 skins I dont think they will deform when riveted so will see how that goes as feeding in the epoxy is a bit of a job. The rear just behind the spar though I will pack to stop it pulling in as that gap is pretty big as most would know. I will turn the wing over tomorrow and see how the underside skin is and add more clecos then I will flip it back over and begin to rivet the front top and top rear skin as ones done this will make the wing hold its shape and truness then flip it back and do the bottom skin and get all those rivnuts in around the tank and make the spar clamp for the fuel tank skinsIMG_7611.thumb.jpg.0909fab7041771ff5ba5529837eb13b8.jpgIMG_7612.thumb.jpg.349458b5330d99099a1254fe1c9ced4e.jpgIMG_7614.thumb.jpg.9e078809506a843a1ae6b34d81f04bc2.jpgIMG_7610.thumb.jpg.77a325a16e67f53a6bae26d142735809.jpgIMG_7619.thumb.jpg.9cfc9730bd0c253b605730b8a10a9ef1.jpgIMG_7618.thumb.jpg.1c4b493e8d05df62d296137b50aae4dc.jpgIMG_7616.thumb.jpg.9c1fb5fa7f0ee7392316d16d506b80a5.jpgIMG_7617.thumb.jpg.c1fe3ffa7e450a2a1423c45cc725ea74.jpgIMG_7615.thumb.jpg.02ecadc5f28af813a49569efe56b70b9.jpg

 

Mark

 

 

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