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Kyle Communications

My Savannah S model rebuild Blog

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Hi PaulI will know a lot more once I get most of the fuse apart but it will need 3 internal frames from what I can see. I could make them but its easier to get them from the factory. All the sheets around the rear I will finish drawing and then supply the bare sheet to the laser cutter and get them cut...this will look exactly like and fit exactly like the factory supplied sheets in the kit, the longerons around the rear I can just cut and bend into the shape in the V bender at work. It needs a new rudder post but I can fabricate that and can also fabricate the rudder ribs. I am lucky I have access to a CNC V bender and a nice large hydraulic guillotine where I work so its easy for me to do this. We also have a punch so if I was real keen I could make up a punch set and actually make the internal frames but I am not that keen its cheaper to order the factory parts. The front Omega will need replacing and again I will draw it up and get it cut. I already have access to a new noseleg and I can draw up the front brackets and again get them lasercut. Laser cutting what I can and supplying the material is far cheaper for these larger parts.

 

The wings most of the ribs are ok and with a bit of a further look maybe the spars maybe ok I will just need to draw up the outer extension parts and get them cut. I have access to a few spare ribs if any are bent too far. The sheets I have already now and got them even cheaper than I budgeted for and these will fit just like as it it went together in the kit. The tail feathers and wings took me a total of about 40 hrs to put together from scratch when I built the XL. The flaperons will need new skins which again is really only an hour or so to measure and draw up. I can fold the edges at work. I will need new rear wing spars but again I can just fold them up at work The cowl has only a little work to reglass it. The engine I am getting it gone right over even if it costs me 1K or so to get inspected and bearings replaced is allowed for.

 

To build my XL it took me around 300 hours. I expect this will soak up around 100 hours to get flying again and I hope to get it all done for a total of 7 to 10K including the paint. I have to order some more 6061T6 from down south for the rear wing spars and the rudder post. I am looking at replacing the 8 flaperon hanger brackets and bearings. I may order there from the factory yet I havent decided

 

I have the full build manual for the S it came with the aircraft and all log and maintenance books. This aircraft is complete with all instruments and radios so really nothing to buy there. I will sell my XL when this one is ready but I will fit my twin stick version into the S and I will change over the dash. So the S will have my current XL dash in it and the dash in this S will go into my XL. My XL is all wired in tefzel not that crappy auto wire supplied in the kit either. I have a couple of people interested in the XL now but have been asked to leave my twin sticks in which I will and I will fit another system which I get from the factory into the S with my removeable stick mods. Also of course my special flap brackets

 

Mark

I will also follow the (re)build with interest.

 

 

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Your back in the land of the long white cloud Hank?

Yes.

 

 

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Ok back to work tomorrow. Been pretty flat out lately. Spent a great 9 days at my farm..put a kitchen in finally and now it really is like a home away from home so I havent been around to get any work done on aircraft. I had 2 tanks out of the girlfriend so put them back in after making some new fittings and fitted the new extra stage flap bracket. Didnt get a chance to fly it..too many numbskulls flying today and 20 kts so will do it maybe one afternoon this week after work if the weather is good. Now she is flying ready again it was time to get back to Mabel. Rolled her out of the garage into the carport and proceeded to remove the engine. The engine will go to Cuz for a full check over and bearing replacement after the prop strike and a complete check over to make sure all is ok. Now the engine is out I will start of getting some sort of table sorted to put the fuselage on and start stripping the rear panels off to see what I am in for properly.

 

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Been stinking hot up here this week but finally got to get some wood to make the bench/cradel for Mabel to sit in so I can work on her. Not finished yet I have to make the front part under the front of the plane and also I will fit dolly wheels to the frame so I can move it all around with ease. When I built the XL it was a pain the way it sat on the bench for the rear and it would be difficult to work on I think so I came up with this idea to be able to work all around the rear end and underneath without too much drama using this V frameIMG_4329.jpg.7e62af7cf7f14b568386a8b1db0b1f8d.jpg . I will know maybe sunday hopefully if I get the frame and wheels done as I will start to take the rivets out of the rear

 

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Been stinking hot up here this week but finally got to get some wood to make the bench/cradel for Mabel to sit in so I can work on her. Not finished yet I have to make the front part under the front of the plane and also I will fit dolly wheels to the frame so I can move it all around with ease. When I built the XL it was a pain the way it sat on the bench for the rear and it would be difficult to work on I think so I came up with this idea to be able to work all around the rear end and underneath without too much drama using this V frame[ATTACH=full]47712[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]47713[/ATTACH] . I will know maybe sunday hopefully if I get the frame and wheels done as I will start to take the rivets out of the rear

Sounds like you will have all the pieces and set up for getting stuck into the rebirth when the weather cools off in two months. Cheers Mike

 

 

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I really enjoy seeing these innovative approaches!

 

For my own fuse, when I get to the painting, I'm going to set up so I can rotate it: not a new idea, I know, but I reckon it'll be worthwhile in terms of making prep/painting that much easier.

 

 

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37 deg here today....got the front of the support frame done and have put it on full castering wheels so its really easy to manouver around now. Started to get the rivets out with the airdrill...broken about 4 of 3mm drill bits so far but now have the side open enough now to really see the problems in front of me. Actually its pretty much exactly what I expected and not a huge drama. Now I can go though and start to see what pats I need to order now so I can gt on the way with the frame and longerons

 

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Got those short double-ended panel drill bits, Mark?

 

They're less likely to snap, but more than that they are easier and quicker to use...

 

 

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Down this way we call those bits Jobber bits. Good to see you back in harness ,you are doing something most of us would like to try ,keep going you have our complete attention

 

 

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Down this way we call those bits Jobber bits. Good to see you back in harness ,you are doing something most of us would like to try ,keep going you have our complete attention

Good to have another name to search by, thanks!

 

These are the little blighters:

 

BORDO PANEL DRILL DOUBLE ENDED 1/8" TWIN PACK

 

they're designed for sheet metal & rivets, and being very short and mostly plain shaft, are very strong.

 

 

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Good to have another name to search by, thanks!These are the little blighters:

 

BORDO PANEL DRILL DOUBLE ENDED 1/8" TWIN PACK

 

they're designed for sheet metal & rivets, and being very short and mostly plain shaft, are very strong.

Not knowing much of the ICP kit, do they use 1/8" (3.175 mm) or metric 3.00 mm rivets?

 

 

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Not knowing much of the ICP kit, do they use 1/8" (3.175 mm) or metric 3.00 mm rivets?

The manual says 3.2mm, although when you look at them closely, they are not entirely regular in shape. That is, the business end is not perfectly cylindrical. So you measure across the thickest part and they are a bit less than that.

 

Having said that a 3mm drill can be good for taking them out:

 

I normally first drill off the head with a larger drill, the 3mm is then used to drill/push the mandrel out, and does this without enlarging the hole (mostly, with luck!)

 

 

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They are 1/8th Avex rivets so they are 3.175 mm that is why I am using the 3mm drills as it helps not to make the holes bigger than they are supposed to be

 

 

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Good to have another name to search by, thanks!These are the little blighters:

 

BORDO PANEL DRILL DOUBLE ENDED 1/8" TWIN PACK

 

they're designed for sheet metal & rivets, and being very short and mostly plain shaft, are very strong.

I bought some today, so I can check the quality.

 

 

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Hi Mark;

 

Looks like you're doing what you like to do; by the way, what is the box riveted to the floor just behind the hatch?

 

Allabest,

 

Dan

 

 

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That is the strobe lights control unit. This aircraft has wing and fin strobes. They are the kuntzleman type not LED but proper strobes... your module was potted last night Dan so will get back to you soon on the shipping

 

 

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That is the strobe lights control unit. This aircraft has wing and fin strobes. They are the kuntzleman type not LED but proper strobes... your module was potted last night Dan so will get back to you soon on the shipping

Can't wait to see it and try it out - along with the new flap brackets.......unfortunately, that won't be until April because the great white north (for me, at least) is closed for the winter.

 

Dan

 

 

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The engine is out and Jim has checked the bits I needed to know about and it does have a bent main drive shaft and front flange. I have organised another engine for parts so thats taken care on and will have heaps of spares now like gearbox and sprag clutch and starter motor. Got it for less than the cost of a new shaft so that was a good score. Strated taking the bits off the firewall and have decided to replace the firewall. I could have fixed it but would rather put a new one in. The vertical needs to be replaced which I will make out of 1.6mm instead of the 1mm it is and also the top horizontal bar is ok but I will remake a new one of that as well out of 1.6 as these crack over time at the ends near the outer skin sides on both ends. My parts for the rear have been all ordered and should be here in a few weeks so this is why I am getting stuck into the front area now. I will also extend the rudder pedals the same I did on the XL. The front Omega I will do a cut and shut on the front 300mm this will be easy as well and it will be made from 0.025 instead of the 0.020 it is orginally

 

Mark

 

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The engine is out and Jim has checked the bits I needed to know about and it does have a bent main drive shaft and front flange. I have organised another engine for parts so thats taken care on and will have heaps of spares now like gearbox and sprag clutch and starter motor. Got it for less than the cost of a new shaft so that was a good score. Strated taking the bits off the firewall and have decided to replace the firewall. I could have fixed it but would rather put a new one in. The vertical needs to be replaced which I will make out of 1.6mm instead of the 1mm it is and also the top horizontal bar is ok but I will remake a new one of that as well out of 1.6 as these crack over time at the ends near the outer skin sides on both ends. My parts for the rear have been all ordered and should be here in a few weeks so this is why I am getting stuck into the front area now. I will also extend the rudder pedals the same I did on the XL. The front Omega I will do a cut and shut on the front 300mm this will be easy as well and it will be made from 0.025 instead of the 0.020 it is orginally

Mark

 

[ATTACH=full]47840[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]47841[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]47842[/ATTACH]

It is interesting how, in this crash, the large forces were so widely distributed over the plane. Even though this did cause many things to bend, I understand the person inside came off without injury. This makes the Savannah a good design (but tricky to repair after such a "landing").

 

 

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mm

 

...

 

Started taking the bits off the firewall and have decided to replace the firewall. I could have fixed it but would rather put a new one in. The vertical needs to be replaced which I will make out of 1.6mm instead of the 1mm it is and also the top horizontal bar is ok but I will remake a new one of that as well out of 1.6 as these crack over time at the ends near the outer skin sides on both ends.

 

...

What cracks worse over time, the firewall or the top horizontal bar? ...or both??

 

For a new build, do you recommend putting in a somewhat heavier firewall and horizontal bar from the start?

 

I think there is an in-between thickness too: either 1.25 mm or 1.27 mm.

 

 

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The firewall is steel and is quite ok...this one a bit bent I could fix it but to be honest its a pretty critical part and doesnt cost much so best to replace it. The horizontal bar across the top you can see in the pic where the top of the noseleg goes is the bit that cracks at the rear in the corners. This I will make 1.6mm and the strengthener plates on it also the vertical you see in the pic that is all bent thats at the bottom where the noseleg gets bent. This is where I put my Stainless steel brackets at the sides and that saved my XL when it had the noseleg issue. The new ICP bracket is still only alu and thin I dont think it makes the area much stronger at all. I will make my SS brackets again I think

 

Mark

 

 

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Got those short double-ended panel drill bits, Mark?They're less likely to snap, but more than that they are easier and quicker to use...

Sutton Tools No.30 Tupoint Panel Drill Bit - 10 Pack

 

I know Bunnings is usually crap, but these are the standard Sutton bits that a lot of aircraft sheeties use. Jobber, btw , is just a brand name.

 

The panel drill design makes them less likely to chew out a hole, and are good for match drilling as they cut on the tip only, and don't enlarge the hole you are drilling through, as well as the large angle (136 deg rather than 118 deg) ensuring that the drill is properly in the hole in thin sheet.

 

 

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3.2639 mm they are well thats what #30 is...that may increase the hole size a bit wouldnt it or are the specifically for 1/8 rivets...just seems a bit larger. 1/8 is 3.175mm

 

But hey I dont do this for a living so the airframe fitters would be right not me

 

 

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