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MajorTom

building my Savannah-S in germany

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-now answer from MGL helping me with a Rotax wiring diagram

 

-spend many, many hours wiring

 

-made nice flight sticks

 

-worked out, how to make a relais modul for trim and flap

 

-finaly stopped hiding the Rotax in the box

 

-have a cowling, that is to short

 

-spend some time thinking how to get the 4-way thermostate mixer installed

 

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Thanks for the warning Mark.

 

The used LED is a very bright flashing white. I put it into the big oldstyle socket, so it is flashing red. The reason to use the old stuff is to cover up the big holes in the panel. Otherwise some fearsom passenger could be misled and assume something is missing there... ;-)

 

Also this LED on the passenger side has a red, nonflashing sister on the pilot side, just to make sure, never to miss this most important warning.

 

About the gap. Do you suggest to push the cowling about 1,5 cm inward and live with a 3 cm gap at the spinner?

 

 

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I put my low fuel indicator directly in front of me.

 

Looks like you are putting the cowl on the inside. I have mine on the outside of the skins. I know of some who have added extra onto the cowl both top and bottom but its a big job. The gap makes no difference except the look thats all

 

 

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I have about 20mm gap between my rear spinner and backplate to the very front of the cowl. I have never seen a sav with a gap smaller that 15mm

Except the one that won Ron Hoey the trophy at Natfly for spinner/prop fit.

 

 

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-have a cowling, that is to short

The cowling is probably just fine but your prop extension may be too long.

 

 

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Looking great MTom and the colour scheme is similar to mine, I'm enjoying watching the progress and the unique and different ways of people building their Savannah's

 

Are the twin Yoke set-up from ICP ?

 

 

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I was wondering it you could get the twin Yoke as a option and I don't recall having that option when I got my kit and a later development I guess.

 

Looks a good set-up though.

 

 

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I dont think they have a twin stick option for the newer kits as the front cross member for the seat is not high enough...but Maybe Toms is. I got a twin stick kit in for Mabel and its the same as my XL one which has the original cross member

 

 

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I tried to shorten the prop spacer, but could not get the the 3 steel bolts out.

 

So I have to live with 3 cm gap to spinner... which looks not too nice.

 

 

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I tried to shorten the prop spacer, but could not get the the 3 steel bolts out.So I have to live with 3 cm gap to spinner... which looks not too nice.

Hi Tom

 

Not sure what you mean by being unable to extract the three bolts. I believe you need to remove these bolts and replace with new ones if they are damaged. Now would be a good time to do this; that way you can verify the spacer fitup tension on the respective bolts etc and you can also consider a shorter spacer. Completing the action on the bolts is a safety need in my opinion. Will add to your build time but worth the effort. Best regards Mike

 

 

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Hey Mike,

 

thanks for your answer. There seems to be no problem with the spacer, prop e.g. it is just optics realy. It is just the case, that the upper cowling was trimmed to much on the pilot side after comming out of the mould.

 

I tried to get the 3 bolts (maybe the wrong vocabulary) out the way I adjusted the water pump outlets. But heating the bolt did help to get it out.

 

So I will stay with the gap....

 

And if the modification to eliminate the oil cooler is going well, I might consider to remove the spacer completly. My cowling seems quite empty in the front. But that all depends on the suczessfull integratin of the mixer/thermostate.

 

20180111_100527.jpg.fa51e6919fa12b4763115527ca666bde.jpg

 

loravia.com-3-Wege-Thermostat.pdf

 

loravia.com-3-Wege-Thermostat.pdf

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Thanks,

 

yes this word is much better. Guess bolt meens something with thread.

 

Does anyone have an idea to get them out. I allready tried to heat the up like i did with the water pump outlets. But it did not work.

 

 

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I finaly was able to get the 4-way mixer/thermostate in. To ease the installation some silicon elbows where bought. The mixer sits behind the engine on the pilot side.

 

Hopefully all works out allright. Oil and water are supposed be at perfekt temperature in minutes and stay there...

 

Also finished is my little flight-stick spinnoff project. I kind of started it because, I was to afraid to get the expensiv rotax engine out of the box.

 

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Hello Savanistas :):):)

 

I just join the group and looks really interesting

 

I am building my second Savannah S. First was back on 2003, so, let's talk....

 

Now I am working on Savy Panel. Project is almost done. I hope at next summer to be on Air.

 

Yiannis

 

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I am working on this panel for long but i belive at the end will be nice. I will keep you update

Hi Yiannis, that looks great!

 

You may want to select Forums (on the left), go down to Ultralights, Savannah, and start your own thread so that your entries aren't mixed in with Major Tom's thread.

 

I look forward to seeing details of your build...)

 

 

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I ran into trouble with the ICP brakes. Problem is: when I push some times on the cylinder some oil is starting to come out in bubbles. The oil is coming, when the cylinder is released. I don't know if this is o.k. and will end when the brake fluid level is leveled. The cylinder has no resevoir, don't ist? ( Sorry, can't find the right words, hope the meaning clear)

 

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