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MajorTom

building my Savannah-S in germany

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Or drill out and use the A4 coutersunk rivets in the kit....

 

Maybe countersinkink this part is not that important, but I don't know. Have not been reading all the manual. Just wanted to start after 35 hours of sorting and checking.

 

 

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That is understandable, and it is time well spent. I think it is important because the tail is held on the two captive nuts and the face of the spar must be flat against the fuselage former.

 

 

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Well, it moves on....

 

Finished my fin on friday. Result locks good to me. Little obstacles where easily solved due to prewarning from Bob and Co. .... Thanks again.

 

Spend 5 hours on saturday to debur and prime all parts for the rudder. Seems very long, when I think of it, but while doing it, I had the impression it worked very well. I found my upper rib to be deformed. The part must have been twisted during manufacturing. I decided to glue im some scrap alu, so there is enough material to redrill the hole for perfect fit.

 

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On Sunday, I was thinking it would take just 2 or 3 hours to assemble the rudder, now that all parts are ready.

 

Thought wrong. It would not have taken long to do the inner frame and the two skins, but there where springy covers. They gave me something to think about. In the end, with a little bending esp. of ST515 it worked out nicely.

 

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One thing seems odd to me. The fin tip is just to big. It could be bent, but the part is heavy and strong. And if I bent it to fit the fin, it will still be to fat on top. Any ideas?

 

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In regards to the countersunk rivets I could not find mine.....after looking 10 times....then I stumbled across them...they look like normal rivets at first glance. But they will most likely be there but you have to look hard to actually see they are countersunk one

 

 

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The plastic caps I did things a bit different than the kit. Although there was no mention in the manual about how to fit them. There is some special right angle strips for the purpose but I didnt use them. I liked my solution better. I made my tips on the main stab removeable with rivnuts. Its in my blog I will see if I can find it. It should be in the early stages

 

 

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The plastic caps I did things a bit different than the kit. Although there was no mention in the manual about how to fit them. There is some special right angle strips for the purpose but I didnt use them. I liked my solution better.

So do I..... will try your way first. Like the idea with the stripes betwen skin and rib.

 

Anyway now the manual says you are to use the flexible angled stripes.

 

Still there is the problem with this overszised fin tip... Guess I take some epoxi an a make my own.

 

 

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From memory I used my strips then used a heat gun to make it form better on the fin top and not look like such a bulge. beware though heat slowly. I also used a Jabiru static port and fitted it to the fin..the static ports on the side of the fuse dont really work.

 

 

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I have asked Reg to chase ICP about whether we can buy the new fuel tank filler fittings as spare parts

What year model did ICP introduce the new fuel tank filler fittings?

 

 

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I'm coming to point, when there is the first cable to be put into the plane ( elevator trim ).

 

Is there a handbook on how to do the riring in a plane?

 

Found this post, (picture 4199) but don't think this is how it has got to be.

 

Lyndons Savannah VG Thread

 

 

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My manual shows where to put the hole in the centre skin, and at the wingtip, for the cable.

 

A pic in my manual appears to show cable ties along the rear longeron.

 

But I am going to move my cable forward, as other builders seem to have done.

 

I think it's up to the builder to make his own arrangements for mounting and protecting the cable.

 

Though I can confidently say that the cat shouldn't be in there...

 

 

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Just ran into trouble. I tried to put the skins on o the elevator. The front line of holes on both, upper and lower skin are about 3 mm to far forward.

 

Yes, I double checked if I mixed directions, right, left, up, down or mixed up ribs.... No everything seem perfekt to me. The holes in the ribs and the longerons fit together perfect. The holes in the rear longeron and the ribs fit perfect to the skins. Problem is just the front line of holes. Not even the holes in the ribs fit to the holes in the skin. Actualy they do, except the foremost one. Thats the same on all ribs. There seems to be not to much I can do wrong, to the fitting of this one hole in every singe rib.

 

Any ideas?

 

I could just imagine to adjust the distance betwen the longerons and redrilling this two holes ( upper / lower side) on every rib.

 

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Check you have the brackets SD014 orientation correct?

 

 

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If you Cleco everything together including the nose skin that front hole will still not line up so drop the drill through the hole and rivet as usual. It is the same on every kit I have worked on. I think the hole in the rib is at fault, but cant remember for sure, take note as you put the nose skin on, whether to drill the rib or the top sheet.

 

 

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Check you have the brackets SD014 orientation correct?

Thanks Bob...good idea. Checked them... they are o.k.

 

whether to drill the rib or the top sheet.

Checked that too. Have to drill the rib and get the forward longeron 3mm out.

 

Guess I cant just drill the rib. The result would be a longhole ( something like: (__) )

 

Am I to close the hole before I drill a new one? Otherwise the rivet would not grip, right?

 

 

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Thomas if this is the only hole out of alignment and you put the stiffeners in at this position then I don't think a long hole would matter. I have just found a guillotine and sheet metal folder at work !!! Happy days :)

 

 

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Are the holes in the forward longeron 3mm out along the full length of the longeron?

 

 

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Are the holes in the forward longeron 3mm out along the full length of the longeron?

Yes Bob, but that was my fault. After the fin and rudder went so well, I completly rivetet the 6 ribs and the 2 longerons together. Made it nice and square and parallel, but followed the misplaces holes in the ribs. So I had to dissassemble the forward longeron. Had I left the clecos in until the last moment, I would have realised earlier and would have avoided some rivet out drilling. (learning by doing ;-)

 

 

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I assure you, we all learn to remove rivets. Sometimes quite a lot!

 

Certainly, I have learned (the hard way) to assemble as far as possible with clekos before reaching for the rivet gun.

 

So, if the only issue now is the one hole per rib, you should be able to cleko the skins in place with good results.

 

 

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