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waraton

Removing aging fuel - wanted Curtis style fuel drain for Jab.

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Looking for any suggestions on where I could get a 3/8 UNF Curtis style fuel drain for a Jab 230 (belly headertank fuel drain). Want to be able to remove aging fuel from the aircraft without the mess and hassle of using existing drain or pumping from disconnected fuel line. Any other suggestions of how others are achieving this would be appreciated.  

 

 

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I have used Suncoast  Air Parts 0754382226 for similar parts.

 

You could try a LAME at an airport near you, which I would suggest may be a good idea.

 

I don't know what drains Jabiru fit to their aircraft, but 3/8 seems a bit big.. I have in front of me the spare I carry, which is 1/8NPT thread, but the diameter of the actual thread ia about 3/8" That is used on Vans RVs and also my Corby with a Jab motor.

 

 

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Foxbat's come with a simple ball valve as a fuel drain. Works very well. 

 

 

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If that’s the type you are after you can get them from aircraft spruce. I got one ages ago to put in the oil drain so I didn’t have to cut the lock wire etc every time. Works very well. 

 

But as for a fuel drain. 

 

Not sure if you are building and primarily  inserting or if you are trying to retrofit one to the drain. Sounds like the aircraft is already built so may not be able to fit them now. 

 

The drains were already in the tanks  ( when I built mine) already installed at the factory. I don’t know if they can easily be removed and replaced with new drains. 

 

The drains I have in mine came with the kit and to take a fuel drain sample require a spike to go into the spring loaded closure part of the valve and then to make everything more complicated all of these are hidden under the drag reducing fairing. 

 

What i I have done is made a modified fuel drain - the type you buy from pilot supply shops to check fuel for water and I made an aluminium collar with two lugs at the top which can slot in through the hole in the fairing and hook in the fairing. The spike is pushed into the valve and then a hose clamp around the outside of the lot is screwed up and holds the collar and lugs in place while the spike is pushed against the valve. The body of the drain is then epoxied onto a spout which has a flexible bit of clear hose attached. 

 

5F996B4D-6C99-4CD5-BABE-A866C2C94C7B.thumb.jpeg.f9584d401eef5ca03e73555d2f12284c.jpeg 

 

Scale not quite right but I’m sure you get my point. The spike length and the  outer tube of the drain  are such that in the the tube is almost fully surrounding the hole where fuel comes out. But doesn’t seal it. 

 

Fuel runs freely down drain hose but have to be careful not to kink hose because the drain will still run and overflow at the top  if hose outflow is blocked. 

 

You get used to the nuances and it worked well. 

 

I can use it drain indivual tanks or the header tank under seat ( or all tanks simultaneously if you open all the taps - my model is one of the earlier ones where each tank has its own in line tap as well a single one near fuel pump that cuts off all together. 

 

 

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Aircraft Spruce have the full range of Curtis fuel drains. Mine is 1/4 NPT. Most fuel lines are 1/4. Cost is US$14.50 but freight will kill it if it's the only thing you want. I like them for checking fuel push to open for a sample & twist to lock for continuous flow. I guess it depends on how much fuel you want to get rid of. I just put some fresh stuff in with the old & it mixes quickly. If you are using 98 octane Mogas the lighter components such as toluene evaporate first. This can result in the engine being harder to start but the actual octane level increases. Over 5 weeks it will go from 98 to 99.5 according to figures from BP. Have a read of this bulletin from BP & you might just decide to mix some new stuff with the old & not worry about getting rid of it. 

 

petrol-life-vehicle-tanks.pdf

 

petrol-life-vehicle-tanks.pdf

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