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Kyle Communications

Another NEW Savannah XL on its way

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Hi All

 

well after 2 weekends spent cleaning out the shed I am going to use to build the Savannah and gurnying out the floor putting some shelves in and bolting them to the wall I opened up the box and started to go through all the parts. And wow is there some parts in that huge box. I started to sort out the bits into groups..the first was I thought I would start with the tail feathers...well it took me well over an hour of looking but managed to get all the rudder and fin parts and have most of the stab and elevator bits collected and in their right groups. It is very impressive every single part is numbered and barcoded even the ones in the bags so there is no way to muck anything up...provided you can read of course. After having a good look through the main box but not really through the cartons that come with it that have the instruments and engine bits etc I have come to the conclusion that this kit is extremely great value for money. The amount of alu that is bent, shaped, cut and lasered is exceptional and all the other bits and pieces that come with the kit you can not go wrong with selecting the Savannah as a build kit. Will start to get the fin and rudder done this weekend. A word to people if you want to build one. The etch needs to be applied to the mating surfaces of the 6061 and the advice from a lot of guys was to get the "Shur-Line Paint Buddy" it has a handle that the paint goes in and has a 25mm roller fitted to it. They are available at Bunnings.....sorry not any more they have been deleted from the importer so if you want one or twp get into Bunnings or Home Hardware and snooker a few if they have them still there on the shelf they are a great idea and make life easy by the look of it. I managed to find a HH store that only had 4 on the shelf which I promptly bought at $12 each and I found a Bunnings that only had the spare rollers left so I snookered all those as well at a stupid price of $1.00 for a pack of 4 roller so I took all 9 packets :) they originally were $15.00 for 1 card of 4 rollers.. so I have plenty of spares.

 

I would think it doesn't matter if you have a factory built or a kit they are exactly still the same just that the guys who assemble the factory built ones have made a lot of them, truth be know they just get a kit off the line and open it and build it. From what I saw of Blairs factory built its EXACTLY the same as mine in every single way. The main difference is about $25k to $30K The difference also of course with the building of your aircraft there is also a enormous amount of pleasure and knowing every single part of the aircraft as well so its a win win. Will get some pictures this weekend and post them.

 

Other great news is there hopefully will be a first ever landing at my new strips up at my property on friday week on the Queens birthday weekend. A friend of mine who flew the Savannah he bought from Kyabram in Victoria will be flying from Kilcoy up to Monto and may call in to my place for a quick coffee so I will christin the strip. I will be there the Thursday night after driving up. Denice and I will drive to Monto on the Sunday from Booyal (about 2hr drive :( ) to catch up with all the Savanah guys and no doubt many chin wags. I look forward to meeting up with as many Savannah owners, builders and wanna be builders on the Sunday for advice and question time

 

Regards

 

Mark

 

 

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Hi Mark,

 

Great start to your blog.

 

Just a work of warning, make sure you do a complete inventory before you get stuck into the build.

 

This was good advice I got from others.

 

If there is something missing it may take a while to replace it, so go through the lot and discover the problems early. (My kit had several bits wrong or missing including 2 right #1 wing ribs and no left#1 rib).

 

It isn't wasted time as it gives you a good insight into each section, like a reconnaissance so to speak.

 

Isn't it great, getting those first few parts built?

 

Blue skies,

 

Ron.

 

 

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Well taking good advice and checking that everything is all there..its a big job. I got some large green bags with ties on them to put "kits" of parts into. So far have done the fin, rudder and main stab. Finding all the parts at this end of the build is the main issue...there is just so many parts in that box. I have taken most parts out except for the obviuos ones like fuselage sides and wing sheets etc. I have taken out all the boxes and seats and wheels and engine parts and they have all been stored on the shelves. I think at this stage I will get all the tail feathers and wing parts out of the bex and sorted to make sure everything is there Then make a start on them. There is a lot of parts for the fuselage so will leave all of them in the box then once the others are all collated and ready. I will put the lid back on the box so it can be used for the table.

 

I have one question though. I have a few ribs in the stab and also some of the wing ribs that are not bright alu..they look tarnished did any one else have these. The stickers have been put over the metal already like this so it no doubt left the factory like this and they must deem them to be ok I would like any opinions if possible on this. I will of course clean everything with isopropyl alcohol before I paint the etch on and assembly. I have attached a couple of pictures to show what I mean these are from the stab. I will have to chase up a few tools tools like the riivnut inserter and also the rounded riveter for the trailing edges of the main surfaces on the flaperons etc anyone know of a good source for these at a reasonable price?

 

Another question..in unpacking the box there is a left and right panel that looks a bit funny I haven't determined where its from yet but I summize its from the main fuselage to around the firewall/nose section. Its curved nicely then at one end is got a fairly sharp bend in it you can see it in the pictures..just asking the question if this is normal in the kit. Better to ask the question and look silly than not to ask the question and be a fool. They were in slightly different areas of the box but under some other heavier parts

 

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Hi Mark,

 

You are right, those parts fit on the front fuse forward of the cabin each side.

 

Still a little concerned that you are not checking all parts the same way you did the tail feathers. You will save time later, even if there is nothing missing, you will have a good knowledge of the bits when the time comes to stitch them together.

 

Regards,

 

Ron.

 

 

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Hi Ron

 

I must confess I am a little over zealous wanting to start building but you are right I do need to take the extra time to make sure I have all the parts. There is another table I will put up in the shed so I can put all the parts together in their groups once sorted. I dont like having parts all over the floor you can stand or kick them inadvertantly as you move around the shed. I am trying to save weight in this aircraft thats why I am going for a Brauniger panel as the main instrument I should have maybe 5 or 7 kg just in all the instruments but one of the guys said be carefull how much weight is in the carpet. I put all the carpet in a bag today..WOW I couldnt believe how much it weighed and when you add probably another KG or two for the glue thats a heap of weight...maybe up to about 10kg I would think. I will weigh the carpet this week and tell you how much it does all weigh. Even Denice was surprised at how much it weighed when I aid the carpet wont be going in she asked the obvious question so I gave her the bag of carpet. She understands now :). I might be a bit anal about the weight but I am no small guy and neither is the mrs so evey kg of weight I can keep out of the aircraft I can compensate for the amount of fuel I can carry and 15kg is pretty close to another 20 litres of fuel

 

Ron were any of your parts "tarnished"..they are not corroded it only seems to be some wing ribs and the stab and fin ribs

 

Mark

 

 

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Hey Mark, don't ever feel anal about fussing about weight of your finished aircraft - it's REALLY important. Every once counts.

 

So many make the mistake of adding weight and then are disappointed by the performance.

 

JG

 

 

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Yes, I had some parts the same as yours.

 

I don't think there is anything to be concerned about as all the gurus tell us that the aluminium used is of the highest grade and won't give us any problems.

 

Re the carpet, remember that you won't be using all that you have in the bag as much of it is scrap. I carpeted mine and the W&B figures told me to put more weight in! But of course each AC is different.

 

Regards,

 

Ron.

 

 

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I bought the carpet home last night and put it on the scales this morning. The total amount of carpet supplied weighs 6.4kg. I would imagine that possibly another 1 or 2 kg of glue to do the job.. Weight and balance can be done with the battery. Roger has been shifting his battery around in his older model Savannah and it has made quite a bit of difference to his aircraft. Spent some more time last night going through the parts. There is a box that has just so many bent brackets its not funny. I forgot to take my build manual with me as I have been reading up on all the sequences so really I was just getting familiar with all the parts I actually have and storing the parts I wont use for quite a while

 

Regards

 

Mark

 

 

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Savannah Weight.

 

Mine came up at 291 Kg, but has probably gained a few KG in the last 5 years.

 

Interestingly, my battery is in the tail, and weight & Balance is spot-on.

 

Brian and JG have theirs as far forward as possible, so indeed, "Every aircraft is different".

 

I suggest leaving the battery lead long, and sliding the battery around at the end to get the

 

balance correct.

 

regards

 

John N

 

 

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Mark,

 

Re the battery, the manual is quite specific in regard to the placement of the battery in the XLVG.

 

It must be in the back.

 

Some of the earlier/other models were different as is evidenced by the alternative battery location inside their front left fuselage.

 

The XL is a different aircraft; longer and with a different engine mount etc, etc.

 

Mate, every XL built so far has been spot on with the battery in the back.

 

Ron.

 

 

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Hi Ron

 

I just weighed all the carpet supplied. I havent gone through that at all... because I am concentrating getting all the parts noted and ticked off the list. I am off to the property tonight infact in about 15 mins. Hopefully the weather will be kind for Monto as I will be there on Sunday and JG and Gary are hopefully going to christen my airstrips on Saturday if the weather goes ok on their way to Monto. Well I will address the battery situation when I get there...that will be quite some time away yet though :(..there is a lot of work to do yet

 

Mark

 

 

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G'day Mark (Spectre-O).

 

Good to hear you have taken delivery of your kit, Iv'e been keeping an eye on this thread. I took delivery of my VG XL kit in Feb and have finished the wings, tail feathers, aft fuselage and I am well into the fwd fuse. I only live down the road from you (Boundary rd ) if you still live in Burpengary ?, so if you need any help with anything or want to have a look at how I dealt with some of the slightly grey areas of the Italian/English manual, feel free to contact me, it might save you the time going to look at an already constructed aircraft to see how to do it.

 

Regards

 

Ducksrus (Steve)

 

[email protected]

 

mob 0421603175

 

 

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Hi Steve

 

That would be great and yes I am still in Burpengary. I started on the fin and rudder today. Had most of it all clecoed to make sure I know where all the bits go but The rudder with the 2 side supports really make the inside of the rudder post small when trying to fit in the lower ribs for the rudder. So I will give you a ring and will come and have a look or you maybe able to help me ...I have pulled the assemblys apart this afternoon and coated the mating surfaces with the primer ready to start the actual assembly of the two parts. That Shurline paint roller with the paint in the handle works like a treat for doing a neat job on these edges. Also the countersinking of the 2.5mm rivets into a piece of alu that less than about 1mm thick is a trick as well without making the actual hole larger. I gather the rivet pulls itself into the countersinking. The other question I was going to ask when I got home here...the plane is not here it is over at my mother inlaws place at Caboolture....what pressue do you use for the air riveting gun?..70psi? or 80 or even up to 100...I didnt find anything so far to stae a pressure to use. Or do you just keep uping the pressure till the rivet breaks off as normal.. Obviously I havent done any riveting yet :) but am just about to

 

Mark

 

 

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Hi Mark,

 

Yes mate, feel free to come over and have a look. Ring or email me and I will give you my address.

 

When you are fitting up some of the parts, it first appears that there is no way they are going to fit but with perseverence and a bit of force they do eventually fit. Also don't be tempted to redrill holes if they don't line up. You will need a good quality tapered hole podger to persuade everything into alignment, it's amazing how it does all come together. Make sure you wash out the Shurline roller and clean the head of it after each days use to stop it gumming up and going hard and dry the roller before next use ( I also found two packs of spare rollers at Bunnings for $ 2 a pack).

 

I think my compressor is set at about 80 psi (will check), but the riveter will still work well at a lower setting.

 

Anyway, happy building.

 

See Ya soon

 

Steve

 

 

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Hi Steve

 

I left a message on your mobile about an hour ago. I was aware not to drill any holes and everything will line up and do it completely with the clecos first then start riveting one at a time by removing that cleco then rivet that hole. The hose on the compressor at inlaws place has a leak so just have to fix that first. Yes I got plenty of the rollers..I went to buy the shurline paint buddy and no one had any stock I found out they were now a dicontinued item..I did a ring around bunnings and no one had any except lawnton bunnings said they had rollers only. After a lead from Reg Brost I found 4 paint buddies at Home Hardware at Brendale after another ring around still on the shelf so I promptly bought all 4 they had and on the way back from there I called into bunnings at Lawnton and they had already put all the rollers they had in stock on the counter marked down for $1.00 for a pack of 4 rollers so I took all nine cards of them they had there so I have 36 spare rollers for 9 bucks :)...So I have captured the market locally here on paint buddies and rollers...if you need any more rollers let me know I got plenty :)

 

Mark

 

 

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Hi All

 

Well finally got to work on the Savvy today life has been getting in the way lately. I saw Steve's savannah he is building about 4 weeks ago and he made a table out oif the lid of the box and I thought that was a much better way to go for my situation so that next weekend I went to good old bunnings and got plenty of wood and made a table and I must say I would recommend everyone to do this it just makes building things and spreading out your parts so much easier and of course you can store the parts in the box for easier access...of course you can only do this if you have enough room which I am lucky to have. I had previously painted the etch on all the ribs of the fin and rudder and got into it today. Really slowly though just feeling my way with getting the holes lined up and it really is amazing that you think some holes will not line up but they eventually do the more clecos you put in. Attached are some pics of the rudder I am about to start the riveting tomorrow on it. I will bring a couple of pieces of steel square tube from here tomorrow to clamp the edge of the fin to so that the small blind rivets on the trailing edge of the fin make a nice straight line. I do have a question about the fin post. The bottom of the post requires you to countersink the very thin .75 alu this is not easy and I am not happy with what I have done so far The smaller captive nut holders and the bottom nose section rib of the fin post rivets are supposed to be flush as well. The countersinking heads I have are normal ones and if I push them any further they will start opening out the rivet holes in the back post. Trying to get a recess into that thin alu I might have to grind up a special bit to do the job. How did you guys who have built one get these 7 rivets to be flush on the fin post. I think I will be drilling these ones out and trying again. I have attached a pic as well for these rivets

 

Mark

 

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You look to have countersunk the holes and then used ordinary rivets in the holes. Countersunk rivets have a lot shallower head so you probrably don't need to countersink quite that deeply if you use the right rivets.

 

 

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The rivet issue has been solved. There is no mention in the manual of countersunk rivets being supplied or even a part number for them they just say A4 rivets which seem to be the standard 3.2mm ones. I was over at Steves (ducksrus) place today for some advice and to look at what he has built and he told me there is a small bag of 1/8 countersunk rivets in his kit so this afternoon I went back and managed to find them so now the 3 holes have the correct rivets in them The smaller 2.5mm rivets just needed to flatten off the round tops with a file. Just need to give it all a scuff now and a cleanup. Got the fin finalised as well and ready for riveting, didn't take long at all to get this part ready. I seem to have lots of 4mm rivets but I am very sure I do not have any where near enough 3.2mm rivets to build the Savvy in fact I don't think I am going to have enough to build even 1 wing. If there is anyone else out there who was short supplied in their kit where did you get the extras you require from?... The compressor I was using for the rivet gun up and died this afternoon just as I was about to start putting in all the rivets into the rudder and fin so went to supercheap and got another one and hooked it all up. So next time I get to the workshop its time to start the riveting of the rudder and fin. I am really enjoying this albeit I am a bit slower than the times quoted on some of the build logs but I am just getting used to building this way and also wanting to do a nice accurate job as well. Oh by the way nothing in the manual about how to fit the plastic ends on the fin and rudder. I have looked at other pics and see now you make extensions up from the skin of the fin and rudder and rivet the covers on so they are basically flush with the skin

 

Mark

 

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Hi Mark, You won't be dissapointed with the Savvy decision, and what a lucky man to have such a beautifull property!!. Those new strips will have no problem handling a Savvy, hell I could get my lightwing in there no problems. I'm here if you have any engine fit problems OK...Good luck with the build...........................Cheers Maj...024_cool.gif.7a88a3168ebd868f5549631161e2b369.gif

 

 

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Hi Maj

 

I have had my airstrips christened. We were up at the property taking gear up for the mezzanine floor I am putting in the shed and Gary and JG were flying from Kilcoy to Monto for the flyin on the saturday. Gary was going to call in and try the strips and JG sent me a message that he would like to come for the ceremony as well. Saturday arrived and it was very windy and as it turned out almost 90 deg crosswind of about 15 to 20 knots. I didn't get a phone call from them so I thought that we wouldn't get a visit and I would see them up at Monto when we drove out there for the Sunday. I was outside just doing some work and all of a sudden Gary overflew so I jumped on the quad and grabbed the video camera and headed off down to the strips. The link attached is not very good quality as I dont know why it uploaded at such a low resolution but you get the idea. The pics I posted when the dozer was doing the strip was 7 weeks prior to this video. The grass has all browned off due to how cold its been up there but new grass is starting on the bare dirt so xmas time I think the strips should be really great. We gave the boys coffee and cake they stayed for about an hour then off they went to Monto for even colder nights :)

 

Just cut and paste the link.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=shTsN2R7hjs

 

 

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Bicycle "lid" weight question

 

Hey Mark, don't ever feel anal about fussing about weight of your finished aircraft - it's REALLY important. Every once counts. So many make the mistake of adding weight and then are disappointed by the performance.

 

JG

Hi JG,

 

I was wondering if you could tell us how much extra weight would be added for your unique bicycle lid?

 

Also, are you planning to offer this as an add-on kit to other Sav owners at some stage?

 

Hank

 

 

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Weight of long battery cables

 

Mark,Re the battery, the manual is quite specific in regard to the placement of the battery in the XLVG.

 

It must be in the back.

 

Some of the earlier/other models were different as is evidenced by the alternative battery location inside their front left fuselage.

 

The XL is a different aircraft; longer and with a different engine mount etc, etc.

 

Mate, every XL built so far has been spot on with the battery in the back.

 

Ron.

Hi Ron,

 

I was wondering about the longer nose of the XL, whether the extra weight ahead of centre would need to be compensated somehow.

 

It seems a shame that that would probably add a few kilos in extra battery cable ...not to mention the penalty of the additional voltage drop along 4-5 metres when starting the motor. 040_nerd.gif.a6a4f823734c8b20ed33654968aaa347.gif

 

I wonder what else could be moved to the back to balance the aircraft? I think I would prefer the battery close to the motor as in the VG (non-XL)

 

 

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Hi JG,

I was wondering if you could tell us how much extra weight would be added for your unique bicycle lid?

 

Also, are you planning to offer this as an add-on kit to other Sav owners at some stage?

 

Hank

Gday Hank,

 

The bike lid added 6.5kg. The bike itself weighs 12kg.

 

And no, I'm not planning on getting into more manufacturing at this stage of life. But there has been some interest, so if someone is looking for an opportunity, they're welcome to it. In fibreglass it would be lighter and pretty easy to fabricate.

 

JG

 

 

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