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Showing content with the highest reputation on 13/01/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Personally, I wouldn't ever apply the wrap to bare aly. Simply on the basis that I previously left the (mill) vinyl protective film on my aly sheet to protect it against accidental knocks or abrasion and when I eventually removed it after about 12 months, which was rather difficult, I found that wherever there was the slightest scratch or pinhole in the film there was MAJOR corrosion in a much larger area underneath. It took a LOT of hydrofluoric acid cleaning and scotchbrite work to restore the surface ... and that was 6061T6 which is one of the most corrosion-resistant aluminium alloys of all, so if you wrapped 2024 (even alclad) or 7075 I hate to think what the result might be. Generally, I think vinyl wrap is intended to go over already painted panels. Just my 2c worth. I don't think the peeling aspect is much of a concern provided it is applied correctly with edges downstream, there are literally hundreds, or perhaps thousands, of wrapped aircraft in the USA, and I haven't heard of any issues with it yet. Time will tell, I guess.
  2. 2 points
    Hi, really sorry to hear about the problem with the Em.. If you wish, I'd suggest you come join a Yahoo group called Emerauders which is all about the Piel designed planes. We have members all over the world and this would be your best shot. Yahoo! Groups should point you somewhere in the right direction... We have restricted membership to keep out spammers however I am one of the group mods. On a brighter note I believe that occasionally this has happened before and that spar may be reparable, it may not. I sincerely hope it is. The plans spar is a one piece unit box structure approximately 30 feet long. There is a 3 piece modified spar design put out by Falconar of Canada and this is a fairly common unit although to tell the truth, I don't have any idea how you would dismount the ribs from the existing box spar and false rear. The L/G attachment has always been an issue and I expect there are some work arounds... For plans..If you're in N. America these may be purchased from the daughter of Gene Littner (she monitors the Em group but I cannot recall her name) from Montreal, Quebec Canada. If you are outside N America I have no idea what to tell you. all the best, ///Gene Cockrell
  3. 1 point
    Time to play! All from Oshkosh 17. Yes, that's me walking away from Fifi after a 1 hour flight over EAA Airventure.
  4. 1 point
    Bottom of page. "Price does not include shipping, GST & Customs charges etc"
  5. 1 point
    First the disclaimer - I have no experience with an in flight adjustable prop and only limited experience of constant speed. I have however experimented with my ground adjustable - current setting is my best effort at getting good climb performance with acceptable cruise (I have to get in/out of a very marginal strip). Based on the above it would seem to me that you would set up your prop to give excellent climb out at full fine, with wide open (full) throttle (WOT) with your engine delivering near or full power and little chance of an overspeed. As with any fixed or ground adjustable prop you would use your aircraft attitude & speed to govern engine rpm. (Rotax advise no less than 5200 rpm in climb and in full power static run up). On reaching a safe/acceptable altitude you would level out to cruise or cruise climb - air and engine speed will start to increase, you can either adjust your prop (corsen) to manage your rpm and / or reduce throttle setting. This is when your manifold vacuum gauge will assist you to achieve the correct balance between engine speed and vacuum (as advised by Rotax) for the desired aircraft performance. Decent can be managed by simply reducing power ( I always carry some power to reduce than chance of shock cooling and carbi icing) but you must remember to change your pitch to full fine at or before down wind, as you must in a position to make powered corrections to the landing profile and do a go round if necessary. I suspect that in an engine failure, full course would tend toward a slightly better glide performance.
  6. 1 point
    Yeah - kasper flipped the image to confuse us!!
  7. 1 point
    I believe mineral is recommended because of the long term coating of components when the engine is idle for long periods. Synthetics are good but, I believe, not for long term idle engines and components...just my understanding.
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    First manned electric aircraft! A lot of R/C modellers would be quite put out by that article. Lots of electric models around and they are arguably real aircraft, just smaller.
  10. 1 point
    The Courier and an Airbike dropped into "Owen's International" for a brew. Nice landing area near the house. One way because of powerlines, and a bit of a slope across the strip which takes a bit of getting used to!
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