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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/02/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hi all, just musing over the topics of the last few years with some more depressing than others. I fly a SP 500 Jab, that I built and maintain myself but I am lead to believe that; My engine will fail and CASA confirms this. I have to inform my passenger that we might crash and get them to sign off on it. I did not put photos of the right hand side of my plane grounding me for a few weeks, thanks RAAus. I don't fly a tail dragger so I am not a proper pilot. I have to fly 760kg so I can have 8 hours of fuel and every IFR instrument available. I live in the Stone Age as I have steam instruments, even though most of you with flying flat screens still run steam coz you really don't trust them. I don't know what a Jacobs Flair is...I just land it (how have I managed so far?) Now I read that I am probably using the wrong grease in my bearings, great. At least most of you agree that when my steam gauges fail me causing my engine to also fail, and I glance to my right and I confirm that my pax did sign the release to fly with White Knuckle Airlines, my Jabby airframe will save us! At least that is something positive. How ever have I managed so far? Ken
  2. 2 points
    A straight stick or good straight edge (eg aluminium angle) and a tape measure is just as accurate, maybe even more so. Use your phones calculator to check your numbers. Just level the thrust line, get the prop blade horizontal, measure the distance from trailing edge of the blade to the ground at 75% of blade radius. Use a set square to draw a line on the back of the blade with a texter or use a bit of masking tape. Mark the stick so all blades will be consistent, mark the ground vertically below the TE, Divide the distance by 60. Multiply the result by the blade angle you want & mark the ground that distance rearward. Example. Distance to ground = 1200mm divided by 60 = 20. Blade angle required = 20 degrees. 20 x 20 =400, so the distance from the mark below the TE rearward is 400mm. Then loosen the blade & with the stick on the flat back of the blade at 75% radius adjust the angle till the bottom of the stick is on the rear mark. Nip up the blade clamp nuts & repeat for all blades. Easy. I set mine at 75% of blade radius. Bolly say to be sure check at 50%, 75% & 90% but it doesn't matter so long as all blades are exactly the same as you will decide by flying whether to increase or decrease pitch.
  3. 2 points
    Hi Dan and thank you for your kind words. I'm pretty happy with the way the Sav is coming together, for a first try. (And I'm sure anyone who ever built one, or any aircraft, come to that, would do a few things differently second time around...not that I'm planning one!) And thank you for the pics: it surely all helps add to the general picture. Since my previous posts, above, I have made progress. In the case of the exhaust, I have turned the No1 cylinder coolant pipe out well to the right, and shifted the pipes as far to the left as they would go with available play. The result is a small gap between coolant pipe and exhaust, but enough to avoid contact and fretting, I hope: I will need to keep a close eye on this, certainly during initial running. (I will also be watching carefully for coolant leaks, as I have had to move two engine pipes and 3 pump pipes, and two in particular were moved several times.) That part was completed by purchasing and fitting an extra length of coolant hose from pump to No 1, as the original hose was now far too short. Should I have further issues, I will set about modifying the No 1 exhaust pipe. With that done, I have been able to complete the remaining plumbing and wiring. And with the exhausts tucked so high, fitting the cowling was a breeze, with clearance all round. I am presently fitting the prop (so many things I have never done before, so much still to learn). I am waiting on delivery of the oil pressure gauge, the panel is all built and wired but still on the bench. Once I have that in, (and no doubt a number of other bits and pieces) I'll be ready for engine runs etc, then some time later I take the various pieces to the airfield and bolt them all together. I'm deliberately not setting any deadlines, but I just the other day reserved the registration, and it's looking like i'll see air under the wheels for autumn.....) In other local news, Perry is putting hours on his new S, Peter has begun the build of his (but only when the weather grounds his VG) and Hank has also made a start. Good to hear from you and hopefully you're getting some sky time. Go well. IBob
  4. 2 points
    Open windows on hot days and passenger girls in mini skirts. I could go back.
  5. 1 point
    Or download the inclinometer app to your phone. Measure from prop tip to mid flat part and draw line at 90 degrees. Level blade and measure blade angle to point one of a degree with the phone.
  6. 1 point
    Blueadventures, and Kyle Comms, thank you for your input. This is my first and only build, so I have nothing to compare it with. What happens with those corrugated pipes is that they can be formed into surprisingly tight bends where necessary, and they just stay there. So they lend themselves to the manufacture of quite precise shapes, though I lost a fair bit of knuckle skin here and there, as some of those shapes have to be formed in situ if they can't be threaded in after forming, and you have to get quite physical with the larger stuff. We were initially nervous about it here too, Mark: it first appears in the build for the fuel lines in the wings. But it seems to be surprisingly strong and durable, and we assumed that if it was failing we would have heard about it: my kit left the factory Dec 2014 and they are still supplying it. My other thought was that there must be considerable pipe losses due to the corrugations, but I guess they factored that in, and most runs are either short or low velocity. The result, when combined with my unusually high exhaust pipes, has been very compact, and the cowlings went on easily with clearance all round. Rubber replacement, when it comes, will probably see a few more barked knuckles, and will probably be most easily done by dismantling the whole lot (and there's actually not much of it) rather than hoping to reach in and do this pipe then that pipe. I guess I'm going to find out! Thanks for the heads up on the cable ties, Mark. I assume you are referring to the ties on the larger pipes on the RH side? I will look for something more durable there. I went through bulk ties as I routed then rerouted, fastened then refastened stuff, working out how to fit it together mostly neatly. But it will be simple enough now to replace ties in vulnerable areas, as you suggest. Blueadventures, yes the fittings on the oil cooler are surprisingly large. Fortunately the Sav has a prop extension up there, so there is more than enough room. I like very much the look of those alloy pipes. I guess you could say the corrugated pipes ICP supply are a DIY version of that; as noted above, I'm hoping they prove as durable!
  7. 1 point
    /monthly_2019_02/image.jpeg.a38f15f7376511a49ffc9c94f117dfb4.jpeg" data-ratio="74.83"> I thought it said Full Bladder
  8. 1 point
    Nooo. They're usually full of water..... ???
  9. 1 point
    Not sure but vaguely remember one of those extra oil cooler setups as an option. My thinking is that when you want to be warm you don’t need extra cooling for the engine!
  10. 1 point
    We all love the Rotax BURP & lubrication debate - Me ? I change oil in my 912ULS (800 hrs) every 50 hrs (cause it makes me feel good). I use 3 litres of AeroShell Oil Sport PLUS 4 (G.. what a mouthful). This usually takes the cold level, to slightly above max on the dip stick. In 50 hrs it will drop to max. I have never actually measured the old /wast oil, but I drain into a graduated automotive style drain bowl, estimate my oil usage to be about 150-200 ml, well within allowable specifications. On the oil level indication (stick) - it seems to me that variations in oil reservoir/tank location (particularly hight above crank case) will influence the indication. This can be the case even between aircraft from the same stable & model. BURPING - a deeply satisfying activity no matter how practices. With the Rotax, I do it when cold for all of the aforementioned reasons. I also do it several times between engine starts - I believe/hope this gives me the best indication of quantity, as to do it once will leave considerable residue slowly draining to the bottom of the crank case (not in the reservoir/tank where the dip stick is). I also hold with the idea that this is pre lubricating my engine innards (for less ware on start up) and removing any chance of hydraulic lock in the event of oil "bleeding" into a combustion chamber - this requires a few more than the minimum turns to BURP - I like to do several complete rotations of my engine (deeply spiritual).
  11. 1 point
    G'day Frank, Went for a fly yesterday in my mate's Drifter for 35m. The country around here is holding up well due to some heavy rain in t'storms. However it is still very hot and this has killed tomato plants in our garden. Hope that you and Fran aren't too badly affected by the floods, cheers Don
  12. 1 point
    I guess we'll be able to add an electronic noise generator to make our silent plane sound like a Merlin or big round engine...
  13. 1 point
    Remember that sealed bearings come in a variety of types - just with steel shields, with steel-encased felt seals, with moulded rubber seals - in contact and non-contact style - and seals made from molded Viton, glass-reinforced PTFE and Teflon. Each type is designed for a specific use or position, or temperature range, or specific contaminants that it needs to cope with. The tighter the seal lip, the more drag on the rotating component. Some small bearings designed for high speeds need a non-contact seal to keep drag to a minimum. When replacing sealed bearings, always ensure you acquire the correct type of sealed bearing for your application. Wheel bearings can also suffer from "brinelling" - the indentation of bearing rollers or balls, or races, caused by heavy or repeated impacts when the bearing sits in the same position without moving. Further to that, you can have "true" brinelling, and "false" brinelling. If you drop a bearing from chest height onto a concrete floor, you have probably incurred "true" brinelling of the bearing. This is shown as indentation marks in the rollers, balls or races, where they were severely impacted in the one spot. New vehicles transported by rail or truck used to commonly suffer from wheel bearing "false" brinelling, particularly in the 1930's and 1940's as transport speeds increased. The "false" brinelling was caused by rough road surfaces, heavy springs with poor compliancy, and transported vehicles rocking back and forth slightly whilst in transit. Heavy vibrations from rail tracks and train diesel engines caused the problems in rail transport. The "false" brinelling led to noisy bearings in new vehicles, with accompanying shorter lifespan. It caused consternation amongst vehicle manufacturers before WW2, and GM even commissioned a study into the problem. The problem was reduced by improved greases with anti-brinelling properties, tighter tie-downs of equipment and vehicles being shipped, better (more compliant) springing in transport equipment, and better road and rail surfaces. Continuously-welded rails were a big improvement in reducing "false" brinelling in rail transport - and smoother roads with improved paving systems played their part in road transport. Regardless, the problem of "false" brinelling still appears occasionally, usually due to poor transportation techniques, extremely rough remote roads, and wheel bearing grease becoming degraded with age and high kms. A brinelled bearing exhibits excessive noise and roughness when in operation, and is warning you it needs replacement, sooner rather than later.
  14. 1 point
    G`Day Don! Rain, Rain, More Rain, Then! Even More Rain! and it`s not finished yet! Following a very dry year for this part of the country, the dry ended in mid December... We`ve been flooded in twice already this year and it`s only the beginning of February and the Cyclone season doesn`t end till the end of April. I`ve had to bring the Drifter up to higher ground here at the house for the second time! it was tied down here for the best part of last week...This morning there was a break in the rain and the wind so I decided to go for a fly! I had to use the strip up at the house here but nothing stops the grass growing and I havn`t been able to mow it so it was fairly high but not a problem! I landed back on the other one and put the Drifter back in the shed but I don`t know for how long it will be there as that low that`s been flooding so many areas of North Queensland is expected to last at least another week. Franco.
  15. 1 point
    Lunch at Colac, Vic. Hot day, up near 39, but fairly pleasant flying. iPad shutdown on the way home due to heat. Recovered at The Naked Racer.
  16. 1 point
    good onyer Ken. Yes we gotta just do our own thing huh. AND no matter what we do, it will all end at the funeral place. Even if we do all that stuff.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Damn, and I was going to build a fleet of them and start a flying school ?
  19. 1 point
    The Varieze has two rudders each activated independently by your feet. Accordingly, resting your feet on them is a big no no. Both rudders would move giving you some uncoordinated flight and an air-brake. Also, the springs for each rudder are light. Light shoes are the order of the day.
  20. 1 point
    I think of it more as "All of this gadgetry STOPS me getting into situations where my skills may be lacking". A situation totally avoided is better than one requiring skills to get out of (whether you have them or not) ? Burning your ass on a hot vinyl seat in shorts.....
  21. 1 point
    Had a 40 minute flight with the wife from Boonah checking out Lake Moogerah, Slightly bumpy day but beautiful place to fly. It was the first time since 1986 the Wife and I had flown together, Slightly nervous but said she enjoyed it. Ran into Danny_galaga for brief chat so good day allround. Cheers
  22. 1 point
    I hope my reply is not out of place on this thread! David, It`s not cheesy to me! A few months ago I took a lady flying who was the wife of a guy (a friend of mine) who I taught to fly the Drifter, many years ago. Because of her fear of flying she refused to ever fly with him. Two years ago her husband passed away and she regretted never having flown with him so she came up here from Buderim where they had moved to and stayed with Fran and I. She had come here so that I would take her flying,in memory of her husband,Neil. We went flying and it was a powerful experience for both of us!I had tears in my eyes and could almost feel Neils presence. Do it and I certainly will also! Frank.
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