Bootstrapper

One minor correction. The P47 was nicknamed "Jug", which was short for "Juggernaut".

OME; Have you checked out the build videos at Flite Test? Their method of building wings is tailored for "maker-foam" (only available in the U.S. unfortunately) but the technique looks like it could translate to Corflute or (Australian) Foamboard successfully. The CF or FB wing would be heavier than a MF or Depron wing but would be stronger. Maybe make the fuselage and empennage out of CF and the wings from foamboard?

You're not seriously considering installing this in a manned aircraft are you Bruce? These flight stabilisers are designed for model aircraft and UAVs, only. "Autopilot" means something completely different in the model aircraft/UAV application than in the manned aviation practice. A 'proper' (manned aircraft) autopilot maintains course, altitude and heading. The ZOHD Kopilot is a simple stabiliser, it keeps the aircraft level or returns it to level flight when the sticks are released. It also has a "return-to-home" function which is in no way useful to a full-size pilot, especially as the rth altitude is set at 70m.

I've heard the same thing. I have seen models made of Corflute but they tend to be heavy and as a result, need to be flown fast. If you're a beginner, you'll be disapointed. See if you can find plans for something with a very large wing area, relative to the fuselage. The "Lazy Bee" or the "Mud Duck" are two designs that are real "floaters" that could be built of Corflute and would fly well (and slowly) at higher weights. A Corflute wing would be stiff enough (with strut-bracing) to be built as a 'single-surface' and that will really fly slowly. Another resource for plans is Flite Test | RC Planes, Quadcopters, Videos, Articles & More They also have great advice for beginners. Their planes are made from "Dollar Tree foam" which is like foamboard here, except that the paper can be easily removed. Unfortunately, DTF isn't avaliable in Australia but their plans could be built in Corflute, subject to the caveats I mentioned. They do sell kits which aren't prohibitively expensive.

This is my FPV 'cruiser". It's a 'own-design' scratchbuild, basesed loosely on the ZOHD Talon. Dimensions are roughly similar to the Talon. Pusher prop 10 x 6, 750Kv motor, 45A ESC, 4-S LiPo, 3000mA/H. Materials: Balsa and Depron. Flying weight ~1.5kg. It is fitted with a ZOHD Kopilot (stabiliser and return-to-home, only) but once the maiden is complete and the model is trimmed out, I'll be installing a 'proper' Matek flight conroller with much more functionality. FPV camera and video transmitter will be fitted to the top of the canopy. (I might put the camera on a servo so it can be panned. I'll control it with the rudder-stick as this is a 'bank-and-yank' - aileron/elevator, only - model.)

Corflute has its uses but you might like to check out Depron (foam) for model making, OME. You can buy sheets of various thicknesses in bulk packs from Trade Warehouse Direct at Riverstone (Sydney) they also have a warehouse in Perth and can deliver anywhere. It can be covered with standard modelling heat-shrink film (like Monokote) or that brown or clear packing tape from Bunnings. (You can get coloured packing tape from Banggood.) You can also use "laminating film" but I have no idea where you can buy it in anything less than 'commercial' quantities and it only comes in clear. The best glue for foam is "UHU Por" from TWD or Gorilla Glue (original), from Bunnings. While quite 'bendy', it can be made into adequately rigid structures for smaller models. In larger models, I've found it most useful for making parts that carry no structural load, like wing ribs and fairings. Another good source of advice about all things aeromodelling, including electric power systems, is the on-line forums. One of the best is "rcgroups.com". Cheers! Paul.

Is anyone using the enforced isolation to build, modify or repair their models? I've just completed a scratch-built FPV cruiser. Design inspired by the ZOHD Talon. I'll post pix if anyone's interested.

"You can't improve the lot of your own people if you give their work away to other countries." An inconvenient economic truth to the manageriat.

@ Thruster88 I have flown a gyroplane. They look scary from the ground, but the ride is much smoother than a fixed-wing. They have a high tolerance for gusts and turbulence and in an emergency (like an engine failure) they can land safely in spaces a fixed-wing can't. The main danger with gyros - the equivalent of the stall in a fixed-wing - is the 'power push-over' aka 'Pilot-Induced Oscillation' which is largely caused by excessive airspeed. Contemporary designs feature a fixed horizontal stabiliser and lower thrust-lines to alleviate this issue. Their main drawback is thay they're aerodynamically inefficient, compared to a fixed-wing and not the best choice for long-distance travel, unless you're not in a hurry and don't care about fuel burn/cost. Gyros are best suited for recreational aviation - the aerial equivalent of a dirt-bike. With the video, larger (R/C) gyros appear to fly better than small ones. Maybe scale is a factor? I'm told that Ken Wallace himself, flew "Little Nellie" for the scenes in the movie.

Beautiful! One of the members at my club (H.M.A.S. Vineyard, NSW, Oz) has an almost identical model. Sadly, he lost control and crashed it a couple of days ago.

Maybe a .10 would have been more appropriate. On a vibration-absorbing mount.

I converted both of mine to twin engine...

In high winds, it's probably safer to land with flaps up. There's no shame in using a gyro stabiliser when it's gusty.

Good to know you're here, Mike. Here's my latest:

This is the real reason behind the new CASA regulations, requiring all radio-control models over 250g to be registered and if unregistered, from flying anywhere except at designated MAAA airfields. The drone-delivery corporations want the zero-to-400ft airspace for themselves.