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Everything posted by carlsnilsson

  1. G'day Giberoo:  When I click on you I get map of Lindisfarne area in Tasmania!  Never mind, I just want to know if the Skyfox CA22 is still for sale? Regards Carl
  2. G'day Noel_A: did you sort out anything re Giberoo's Skyfox?  Get a reply?  Is it still for sale, so far as you know? Regards Carl
  3. G'day Keith: that's most kind. Q. Do you have a paper book copy or CD? If the former, I am presuming there is a procedure for removing and replacing the horizontal tailplane. If you have a scanner, perhaps you could scan those pages and upload a file or zip it and email me PM (not quite sure how to do that, but I guess the procedure is explained by the webmaster somewhere on this board - my son tells me it is bad practice to publicly post an email address). I'll look tomorrow. Alternatively, if no scanner, I should be able to PM you my postal address and ask you to copy pages and post.
  4. G'day Wigg: In note above where, nearly five years ago, you offered to post a CD copy of the Skyfox (CA22 or 25) maintenance manual to someone in need. I have a CA22 taildragger Ser. no. 22027 Reg. 55-0688 for which a copy would be most useful. Is your kind offer still open? I would quite happy to make a modest payment for your costs plus post - maybe could use Paypal if you have an account or whatever. I fly out of Cambridge, Hobart. Regards Carl
  5. .That's good advice. You can get pretty compact emergency parachutes that open smartly. Glider pilots sometimes have them. Use as a cushion - either for the back or the bum. Carl
  6. Firstly, it takes a pretty good crack to bend that spar. When I pushed mine (backwards) through hitting a tree, the shear force tore the mounting of an internal diagonal drag brace and showed that shear by tearing the fabric above the fuel tank. The innermost bay with the tank has no drag brace and hence can be more easily distorted in shear - the tank taking some of the distortion. My front wing mount bracket (the short vertical tube into which the clevis pin goes) was also bent, as was the pin itself. I managed to straighten the bracket tube, after checking that the weld was not damag
  7. G'day Mike: Either my brain (?) has gone to sleep or I'm not familiar with the "TG" in CA25TG. I presume that's a taildragger CA25 -yes? If all the aileron hangars snapped and the wing struts ruptured, it would seem that the left wing took a pretty severe impact. Did the fabric tear above the fuel tank in the bay nearest the fuselage - that would indicate a fair amount of shear on the wing which may have bent the spars - or at least the front spar. Also, take a look at the wing attachment points. On the other hand, I have a friend with a Fox that hit power lines on final approach and nose-d
  8. John: I'd be surprised if anyone could answer your question authoritatively. There has not been any AD or AN re wear on these bushes, to the best of my knowledge. Certainly a number of Foxes have done lots more hours - some up around the 5000 hour mark, I believe. There are probably quite a few which have done 3999.9 hours! However, I would use my own judgement, based on the following:- firstly, can you rattle the whole aileron on the ground inside those bushes? Flutter would probably be more easily induced by a change of aileron angle of attack rather than a minute wobbling of position. (I'm
  9. John: Remember, this is a flexible wing. The original ailerons before certification were one piece. When loaded in flight, the wing bends enough such that the original one-piece ailerons jammed solid. That's what Llewellyn was testing. That's why the ailerons are now segmented. The wings still bend in flight and so does the full length of aileron. Play when the wing is unloaded on the ground does not necessarily mean play in flight. I suspect that you need some degree of clearance in those bushes to prevent binding in flight. So long as the bushes are still in one piece, I don't think I would
  10. G’day Mike: Good luck to you learning on a CA21. I don’t know if you have previous experience with taildraggers, but learning on a CA21 is not the easiest way. I had a few hours solo on a Piper Cub back in 1968, but when I started again on a CA22 in 1996 at Penfield, Vic., I was classed as a slow learner. I had difficulty, to say the least, in landing! Eventually circumstances caused me to transfer to a Drifter on which I made better progress and eventually, much poorer in pocket, I got my certificate! I then hotfooted up to Caloundra and bought a much-used, much loved and sometimes-abused CA2
  11. I'm a CA22 Skyfox owner and have been for 15 years. I have also followed accidents involving Skyfox wings and ailerons reasonably closely, having disagreed with the AUF's Technical Manager Mr Hewitt-Cook over the incident in Qld in or about the year 2000 which a Skyfox lost one aileron and landed safely. That resulted in an AN 2-2000 which required the chrome moly insert to the aileron torque tube OR an X-ray inspection of that tube and it's junction with the aileron crank. At the time I wrote (to AUFCHAT) " it is likely the root hanger broke first - but the real question is why did they (or a
  12. Oh dear! There's me rattling on about SCR's based on a misunderstanding! Comes of being late at night and those funny pills! I agree, the 26 deg may be fine for full power, although Ducati didn't have much room to play around. (You have to be able to start - would not want any more than 6 deg BTDC or the poor old sprag clutch would suffer even more - and the 26 deg would be set by a trigger pulse width apparently of 20 deg). If you only need positive delays - i.e. no more than 26 deg BTDC, then that makes it simpler to design a "front-end add-on". I'm a bit curious as to how they switch
  13. Roger et al: Well, I thought it was time for me to butt out, but I can't let Roger's brief report on the "Silent Hektic" go without comment. It's the "takes 10 amps" that has stirred me up. As an old "semi-electronic wierdo", I have to comment that if a system takes 10 amps (i.e. 120 VA) , then it is almost certainly supplying the power for the primary ignition. That's not necessary to provide a smooth advance - retard timing system. For the Rotax 912 /Ducati system, you can let the magneto continue to provide the primary power and provide the timing control independently - as the present D
  14. Roger: no worries. I too have had a number of Beetles thru my life, first one being a 1958 1100. I think it was the first model with the one-piece big rear window. In 1959 my mother also bought an 1100 and I recall her being upset that the dealer didn't tell her about the 1200 that came out a month or so later! I still have that car, sitting in the back yard and simply needing some TLC and a paint job. In about '94 I had the engine thoroughly rebuilt by a specialist VW mechanic who had bought up all locally available 1100 cc spares and had them tucked under his caravan! Taught my daughte
  15. Roger: Not as sophisticated as the old VW beetle that I drive! I have a mechanical (centrifugal) advance distributer for mine that works a treat. Also, many is the time that I've wished my Rotax would start with the same reliability and ease that the VW does! Being an old "wierdo" myself, I have designed (but not yet built) a substitute power source for one ignition module just for starting - runs off the 12V battery. Not too difficult - my ambition is to be able to hand start the ba*****d. Cheers Carl
  16. Roger: I suspect this is the case, but I have not tried it. Could you tell me if this opinion is based on a test - or whether your present leads are unshielded and, if so, about how long are they. Mine are all around 1.0 m. You would have to turn the squelch down or off on the radio to get a valid comparison. One thing I am pretty sure about, the 5mm diam inside the shield of the old blue Rotax leads is insufficient for safe insulation of HT as the leads age. The older 912 system had the modules, coils and connections packed inside an Al box and the HT lead shields were clamped to th
  17. Roger: as to the question about carbs - surely it depends on how the plugs are connected to the ignition units. Don't carbies tend to feed each side of an engine - that would be why, if they are not properly synchronised, the engine runs rough? Now, on my 912, as detailed in my earlier reply, each ignition unit feeds two plugs on each side of the engine (i.e. 4 plugs). So a maladjusted carbie should, to first approximation, effect rpm on both ignition circuits equally. Don't know for sure, haven't experienced it, but that's what I would expect. (Often wrong, though!) Carl
  18. Roger: Tenerife eh! I'm real sorry for you! I'm right in the middle of changing my HT leads now, which I had put off doing for far too long. I had other problems for the best part of two years (no wings on the a/c!) that took priority. Then I did some tests that suggested (falsely, I believe) that the plugs were firing OK under compression. The real test is how the engine runs - or doesn't run! Don't know what the C2K is fitted with, but my Rotax 912 UL had HT leads (probably even older than my engine - viz. about 19 years) that B. Rotax supplied with the 912. These are the blue shielded le
  19. Roger: I'm unsure if you have a 912 80 hp or 912S, but I assume ignition layout is similar. On my older 912UL, ignition circuit A goes to plugs (1T, 2T) and (3B, 4B) (one pair per coil) and circuit B goes to (1B, 2B) and (3T, 4T). So, theoretically, all being equal, each circuit supplies a symmetrical set of plugs and should produce same rpm. I assume all your plugs are gapped the same? Does the engine start with the same facility on each circuit separately? On my 912 the power input to the ignition modules flattens off (at about 35V equivalent AC on a multimeter) at around 3000 rpm. If pre
  20. G'day JG3 and other contributers: I have read this thread with great interest. I have a vaguely similar problem with my Skyfox CA-22 912 UL in that, after a rest of 15 months, I cannot get the 912 started. After considerable messing about, problem seems to be that the spark from both IGN modules is very weak. This particular problem has plagued me for several years - very difficult starting that has got slowly worse with time. Today I turned the engine over with no compression in any cylinder, but each HT lead going to a properly connected plug externally and producing a very weak spark. Al
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