ross holz

found out from Jabiru just to clarify things a bit. At the factory they use protec automotive paint type: barrier 625 polythane Colour: mattahorn white for 1 litre pt10 10.2grams, pt42 32.1grams, pt44 1314.4grams or the additive weights as you add each one 10.2 ; 42.3; 1356.7. they use 2 parts paint and 1 part hardener i tried a colour match from another paint supplier initially but was a waste of money Jabiru Paint _Info.pdf

Just to keep others informed my rego was due yesterday so I sent Ra Aus an email 2 days ago. Within minutes, even though it was after hours, Maxine from admin replied about forwarding to techos. First thing next day got an email from Wayne confirming it was being looked at. That afternoon the misus got a call about registering over the phone but I was at airport so missed the call. I rang the next day and registered over the phone with credit card. Didnt have current landings and aircraft hours handy so another trip to airfield but all done now over the phone. Thank you to Ra Aus staff who must be working flat out to sort out the mess. Ra Aus techos contact details [email protected] or phone 04179 42977 or 02628 04700 for registration enquiries

Some swear by avgas some by mogas. Iam a mogaser (98 shell or bp doesnt seem to matter) at around 50 to 70c cheaper a ltr and cleaner burn its the better option in my opinion. Ive seen similar deposits to yours in our club aircraft. Even the old holden running on super was never that bad with all the oil it burnt A local flying school did 1000 hrs on mogas and cylinders etc looked as good as new with as new compressions. Nothing wrong with mogas as long as its not too old, 4 to 6 wks in my experience and you make sure your fuel lines dont induce a vapour lock by having high points along their route. I leave the electric fuel pump on all the time just in case. Have heard of rings getting stuck in their groove from high lead deposits but no other problems that I know of. The octane of avgas is quite high. Like most things each has its good and bad points to consider. As far as decoking goes, in my opinion, I wouldnt worry unless oil consumption / compression was an issue.

Iam pretty sure it was the gps that stuffed the compass or at least magnetised something else near by because I have the same problem with the compass in the 4wd (a fairly good quality one with compensators) and the gps is the only thing thats come near them both. As far as loops in the power lead, you only get about 2 inches of power lead with these cheap chinese gps units so that wasnt the problem. I tried the hand held compass near the gps and the internal speaker gave a very strong indication. No I havent added any solenoids etc and the wiring is standard. All the gps units/electronic devices I've used effect the compass if close by, so if the field is strong enough would change the magnetic properties of a compass or what evers near by in my opinion. I was playing with a little hand held compass and changed the poles on that quite easily with another (speaker) magnet. I held the compass up high on the windscreen away from the instruments etc and that seemed to solve the problem so perhaps something else has become magnetised. On the other hand I had a spare compass for the car and I could compensate that one but not the old one with the little adjusting screws after it became faulty. Either way I'll mount the compass up high on the windscreen which should solve the problem. Thanks again for input

Ah yes the speaker in the gps sounds like the culprit. Makes sense now why my old garmin gps plus 2 never gave trouble. Yes the compass wont read correctly by upto 30 degrees, even with the gps removed from the plane and cant adjust enough with the compensating screws. Gps was mounted using suction cup on windscreen. Compass reads ok out of the plane so maybe something in the dash has been magnitised. Might try mounting compass up high on windscreen like some later model Jabs. Thanks for the help

I didnt believe it could happen either but it did. I think the way they initially magnetise them is in a strong electro magnetic field so I might have to send away for repair. I have taken it out and tried re magnetise it with a normal magnet but I dont think its strong enough. When its out of the plane it reads ok compared to other compasses so maybe its the liitle compensating magnets in the bottom that are stuffed. Iam not sure whats wrong with it. The error is not constant in the plane so it might be the compensating magnets. I thought this may be a warning to others too if it is common to the recreational flying gps units. The compass in the car I noticed is now wonky too but other gps units didnt seem to effect it in the past.

I recently purchased a recreational flying gps which I would recommend to anyone but it seems to put out quite a strong magnetic field and totally stuffed my compass. I set it up about 6" from compass and now compass is permanently stuffed, upto 30 deg out on some headings (ie gps not even switched on). Tried the little compensating screws to adjust the error out but not enough adjustment. Other gps units have upset the compass but not permanently. Anyone know if the compass can be re magnetised or what ever. Has anyone else had this problem? Battery only last about 10min. Iam wondering if this is a common problem also. Must draw a lot of power hence compass problem. Other than that rec flying gps is a good cheap moving map gps. I use the geoscience 1:1mil .ecw map which is very similar to wac charts. Dont know the cost but maybe cheaper than combined wac chart collection. (Got a copy off my dad who used to go 4wd with oziexplorer) Also scanned in latest vtc etc. Stops the guess work when getting close to boundaries. Compiled a list of aust airstrips from various sources on the internet. If you tap and hold on a waypoint it will display field elevation, strip directions, etc if you store them in the description field which is handy.

One of the local flying schools J170 (not 3300 I know) got 1000 no worries before top end done recently. Mechanic said bore and pistons look like new. Only normal wear and tear on rockers etc. Compression all as good as new. Run on BP ultimate from day one (about 18 mths old from memory).

For anyone whose interested I used an oxygen sensor from car wreckers $20 and fuel/air ratio gauge from cash converters $30. Tried gauge on car and seems to work ok as car computer kept gauge in optimum range and rich on acceleration. Oxygen sensor wire colours are shown on internet for various brands. Some have heaters to make them start reading sooner. Hardest part is installing gauge in panel. It may not be the traditional way of doing things but help give an understanding of what the jab motor is doing. Id rather run rich than lean any day. Hopefully with the aid of egt gauge on order I can run at something less than flat out whilst flying and enjoy the scenery or get better economy. Saw in a catalog from usa that they are commercially available for sports aircraft but you need to replace sensor every 200 hrs running on avgas. Might look for a switch to flick through cylinder egts as its hard to justify spending thousands on flash dyson glass panels etc.

Got some interesting results today. Put an Oxygen sensor on exhaust of my recently acquired J200 to check mixture. Results are as follows -idle and full revs fully rich on gauge -between 2200 rpm and 2800 almost fully lean on gauge -around 2000 mixture was optimal on gauge (didnt go much lower in revs whilst flying) These results were using the jets and needle recommended in JSB018-02 ie 285 needle and 255 main jet etc. Then put original jets and needle back in Bing carby and got -idle and full revs fully rich on gauge -2000 to 3000 mid scale rich on gauge Also interesting with original jets, 280 needle and 280 main and original needle set second grove from bottom got 2850 static rpm but could only get 2600 static rpm with JSB018-2 recommended jets etc. Whilst looking for a jab to buy a month or so ago someone else said they ran lean with new jets which made me wary to start with and thought it needed checking. Just for comparison -running with 60" diam 53" pitch prop. -using premium unleaded (lead will clog up oxy sensor if your using avgas). -have egt on order so cant give that but cht and oil temps look good and even on the low side for both old and new jet combinations -engine showed signs of over heating. Had snow white plugs when running on avgas and exhaust gaskets and washers under screws were burnt out. Tappets and head torques needed adjusting after approx 30hrs running on JSB018-2 jets. Main problem, on my motor at least, seems to be the new needle. I can see why jabiru recommend working the engine hard as that was the only time the new needle supplied enough fuel (for my motor and maybe others) This is just a heads up as it may not be the case with other jab engines.