Jump to content

coinz

Members
  • Posts

    67
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by coinz

  1. Maybe they're still selling 😃 then.What are you looking for? For me personally,if i'm looking out for something i put out a wanted ad, always seems to work. cheers colin
  2. We had 4 or 5 engine stoppages on approach with my early series 1 Jab at Marion field,idle was always stable on the ground.Eventually i discovered it appeared to be a design fault with the carb throttle lever arm.Throttle cable runs from left side of the engine and curves around the front then goes back to carb .My eng no high 600's later on they modified that. The carb throttle lever being alloy and the idle screw having a ball end and meeting the lever at an angle about 30 deg off from 90deg meant the lever was distorting when snapping the throttle back on approach. 2 hours with a dremel had the lever and ball meeting at 90deg at the idle position and a small dimple in the lever(the lever is only 1/8" wide so a bit underdone for the task) for the ball to always center itself on the lever . Eng never failed after that. colin
  3. I use Caltex 98 from the same dealer,and he told me it is tested every 2 weeks,i have no idea what tests they do.He also told me it's the same fuel as the Woolworths BP 98 up the road. Colin
  4. PA28 no CSP,i was flying gave a slight shudder and i noticed EGT begin to rise.Mag gear had sheared apparently,nylon?i didn't get to see that. cheers colin
  5. Hi there,no i sold to a gentleman in tewantin qld.cheers

  6. Looks like it could be doctored to me,at 0.46 left wing is just to the rear of cockpit and fin rudder suddenly is seen to forced to the right,even though the wing tip is lower than even the horizontal stabilizer.It then miraculously returns to the vertical. colin
  7. No ,but someone else is,i found the Pup a little cramped.Sold it with spare motor.They are around,in hangers,sheds.Best thing is advertise under "wanted". cheers
  8. Last time i spoke to him it was flying,a few years back. cheers
  9. I've seen aircooled engs go from heavy oil usage to negligible by fitting a good modern ring package,and my series one 3300 i would say uses too much oil,so would be interested in a set of quality rings,care to share any information? cheers colin
  10. My 230 is a 230B and i have the specific manual to suit,not sure of the difference to the 230C though,possibly throttle as mine only has the single throttle and had a basic flaw in the idle stop mechanism which could cause (and did) engine cutouts on finals.Cable runs right around front left side of engine and back to the carb.I see later model changed that. BEW 350 kg. colin
  11. So what am i missing here?fair enough speed would be up but why has fuel usage gone up at 9000ft?
  12. The colour of my chinese 4 stroke mower plugs is textbook perfect light tan,using the same fuel as the Jab.
  13. I run my 3300A on 98,after modding the ducts it ran at a too cool 245F as i realized after 30 hours plugs were always black even after repeated cleaning,did some carb tuning ended up dropping the needle and changing out the main jet temps have risen to 255F,after 2 oil changes using Camgaurd am going to W100+ as recommended here, the thing i don't get is why did Jab changed out all those cylinder heads seems like a lot of expense,when i could simply redo my ducts and end up with a motor that ran "too" cool? Ducts,cut horizontally,lifted 15 at front,30mm at rear,extended at rear i can squeeze fingers into rear gap,aids airflow to the rear,yes i have read all the stories on closing these gaps ,i disagreed then and still do. Gaps between cylinders,i tried alu strips,yes they soon cracked,replaced those with extended fibeglass strips that were angled in and when set hold in place by pressure. Seems to me the ducting should have been better investigated.More volume and allow more cool air flow through too the rearmost cylinders. Other issues i have with this motor,rocker bearing shafts appear very small diameter,rockers as far as i can tell have no spring to control side movement, i can move the rocker sideways and easily hear clicking,i have 2 hours till next oil change,valve clearance check so i will investigate this more thoroughly, but do these engines have any reputation for higher than normal rocker wear.I will back the adjusters right off and check for bearing to shaft wear.Is it all the same in the Gen 4?,or have they gone to a hollow and bigger bearing area. cheers colin
  14. Aeropup (SA) was sold to someone who started building them at Gympie,he had some fuse's build-up in his hanger when i visited. He was advertising them in USD with if i recall correctly the Camit engine included.What became of it i don't know, cheers colin
  15. I'm with you 100%,a dropped valve is my biggest concern,and i'm only new to Jabirus and that has been brought on only through reading about that issue,and through personal experience with overly hot engines testing design limits. Anyone know what uncowled radials run CHT wise,must have been pretty cool at high altitude,in minus temps. cheers colin
  16. Probably no doubt mixture control would be an improvement but as Nev alluded too,who would know what's best for a Jab.The bottom of my 230's Fuse quickly browns after cleaning,i don't know if it's oil or rich mixture but it would be good to know it's not running too rich.The auto mixture is good,and easy to see why it was fitted for Recreational flyers but surely manual mixture control by somebody competent is superior. cheers colin
  17. Yes i agree with the American HD's being affected too,i bought a new '86 evolution new,cruising back from Fitzroy crossing at 140k's arrived at Karratha with a ticking noise from the rear cylinder,which it had from then on.This is probably what Bruce is experiencing,radiated hot air flow heating rear cylinder,i suggested he try increasing air flow that side but he was more into equalizing Ram air pressures,ie increasing pressure LHS to experience a cooling effect.
  18. 105C at cruise is about what i see after a straight in approach and rolling out,at those temps i would imagine most all problems with Jab valves and heads would never have occurred,and they may have gone on to rule the Recreational engine market. Too high temps was the dirth of British motorbikes,i'll always remember back in the 80's while working in the Pilbara being told that "british bikes can't handle the heat up here and just burn up",seems Jabiru are the same and it's pretty easy to overcome. Keenaviator,do you have individual CHT probes fitted? colin
  19. Yes,and i would be thinking of air exiting the ram duct,at the rear.I would be thinking lowering the pressure of the LHS even more,are you able to lift the rear of the duct 5 or so mm,to help more air flow into the front of the duct,thru less resistance at the rear. colin
  20. I remember seeing plenty of cracks in company Partenavia P.68 wing,they were drilled and several, 4 or 5 strips were riveted across the crack.Plane was eventually slotted to receive new spar.Heavy landings on these and C206's was prime reason for cracks so i was told at time.Maybe Virgin pilots have been drilled on this.
  21. I use Caltex 98 in my Jab,only because i usually top up the SUV at the same time i fill the jerry cans.For some time every time i used Shell diesel the motor developed a rattle (diesel rattle) and i'm talking some years that went on,if i filled with Caltex over a couple of tanks the engine would smooth out, back to shell and the rattle would reappear,am i going mad or is there something behind this ??
  22. Plug leads ended up inside my Ramair ducts was not initially planned,but these early ducts were very restrictive to airflow over the top 6 fins, compared to D model, i wanted to keep them outside but the 90 deg spark plug caps ($146 for new set) were too short,so i routed them the same as the later model . I would have used longer straight caps but they would have needed complicated sealing on an angle and removal would be near impossible ,i imagine that would be an issue to be solved, Paul .
  23. I've just done the opposite on my early ducts,cruise temps were 310F,so after some discussion decided to do some mods,now leads are inside like the later D model and cruise temps immediately dropped to 245F and been like that for 6 months.Interesting comments about the leads sitting on the hot fins,will take a look and see if they can be held up out of the way. cheers colin
  24. Speed quoted at 150 kts would then be 10 kts into red zone if no airframe changes,that's all i was thinking.
×
×
  • Create New...