Skee

Hello 80knots, I replied to you via pm, hope it's helps.. It's still working just fine.

Cooling didnt work, had to put the old bigger intakes on it.

And its done, it took 2 months of active work on it. Lets hope cooling works.

Gelcoat time. And as Seperator i used tongue depressor and hot glue. And another intresting fact, temperature rose from 5C to 24C in the pas few days, so filler expanded and i had to sand some spots... Yeah thanks, i did a test sample and it worked out nice, the liquid filler did not like the curing heat so i lowered the mix volume of hardener and i used allot of extra wax.

What a hell of a job, just spent another 3 days just fixing and sanding, jeeez, finally sanded with 400 grit & waxed, ready for mold.

Got the shape ready, was a pain in the arse to sand the 2 part filler and now i have used liquid filler, next is to sand the filling one more time and then spray with 2 part paint and then on to the polyester mold.

More work done, im using allot of filler.

About 60 hours flying now and it performs pretty good now, no issues since last, im building up my confidence. And not by little, its huge.

So 1½ year since last post, 2018 passsed, with a flighttesting passed and November 2018 i got my flight permit. Also, August 2018 i visited Kyle in Brisbane and got to meet his Girlfriend, thanks for letting me meet her Kyle. Ive been out visiting friends. And a new year has begun. And i have now Lengthened the propflange 3cm and started with making my own cowling. I poured foam over it and it looked like this. And then i sanded it down a bit to get a feeling, and i like it allot more than the old one that was a compromise. The Compromise cowl. Have a great day.

i use this battery in my Sav S. LifePo4 18aH Powerbloc LPB18000 zur Zulassung beim DMSB eingereicht, 299,00 €

Its an ICP option , even i have them =)

They drove back up to me and helped me assemble the aircraft again, new oil pump was really good, instant oil pressure. They wanted me to change the flow of water so now i have a thermostat directly after engine, the thermo bob is gone and in came a simple one, thus making water flowing through the radiators and not shock cooling the engine when thermostat opened, when rerouting the water i no longer got flow into the cabin heater so im moving the hoses around for that. Also another weird thing is that now after water is cooled, the cylinder coolant inlets are positioned right by the coolant temp meter, so i get 20C less measured at efis compared to the ecu´s water temp meter that is positioned after engine, i told them i dont agree on the position of efis coolant temp meter, i'm now installing a inline water meter after the cylinder outlets so i can read same temp as ECU/thermostat, this worked better when i had the thermo bob.

Ok, they are upgrading my oil pump from one that needs to be bled to one that can suck oil, a newer version. While they are pulling the engine apart I also asked them to anodise the engine mount since I've got light surface corrosion, I'm the first customer who asks for this, the engine has bare aluminium parts and I have a cold storage hangar that can get very moist and cold in winter. Engine delayed till end of august.

So, issue found. A brass bearing was loose and oil passed by the valves, i was the first to have this issue. Engine should be back next week.

Engine is off to belgium again,oil in Cylinder 1. The dealer had a theory that when cold water from the radiators flowed in after thermostat opened made engine cold shocked so there was a crack in the cylinder, for me that sounds very long fetched. I have a Thermobob thermostat that bypasses the radiators until its heated, he suggested that i would get one that circulates the whole system at lower flow.

It ran very good for 15 hours before the lambda issue now, i feel this has nothing to do with the ECU, broken lambda. Well its a hobby,, isnt there always problems with hobbys.

So now i got some weird ass vibrations(its like one cylinder shuts down on full throttle after 10 seconds at full throttle) and uneven idling(1100rpm), their first fix was me changing pitch on the prop to a 2850rpm on full throttle at ground cause it was to rich they told me, wont my aircraft go slower now when i have a lower pitch? but disconnecting the Lambda made all issues go away, so i'm guessing at a broken lambda. Ive read that lambda should be quite a bit down on the pipes but i have been told by d-motor it need to be about 20cm from the cylinder exhaust, to hot? Now the german dealer is coming on Monday to have a look, i would have preferred to just change the lambda first as we agreed before any people coming here, what a surprise. I got a little agitated/weird tone on the last call "we will get this out of the world", its not my fault ECU fails and i need to send motor to belgium, and now its behaving stupid again.

I never bought it, got some comments from somewhere that it was a real hassle to connect.

what your fuel usage in liters at cruise? 85 knots?

Engine works fine, working out some minor things like oil tank ventilation for an example, had an issue where i was refilling oil, 1 DL per hour, and since D-motor don't have any instructions(Barely any instructions for anything) on how full the oil tank is allowed to be, i had overfilled mine and the overflow went into engine after the air filter, i'm not refilling the tank for now and they didnt like i had the oil tank connected directly to the air intake due to hot air combustion and vacuum. So i moved the tank vent to a plastic bottle for now and ordered a proper vent tank. Other than that ive done 15-16 hours in it so far, doing the flight tests, many of them are just dumb, like 60 degree bank full throttle and find stall speed! that was 2.2G, another test it want me to do is fludder test, fly to VNE and see if fludder occurs! VNE in a sav s is like full nose dive, not my thing. These test are general for all types of planes, like one of a kind planes even. Ive been trying out different flap settings starts and landings, its really easy to start and land and keep the speed, perfect regulating with the stick, when coming in for landing i just trim it max and have a perfect 75kmh/40knots glide in first flap. all in i still wish it was a bit faster like the promised cruise 180kmh.

I'm the beginning all goes fast because the big parts are easy to make.

1½ hour of fault free flight... Im revving max 2800 rpm, im wondering should i change it so it revs higher? one degree less on propeller? Power torque curve.pdf Power torque curve.pdf Power torque curve.pdf

Classic Swedish summer.