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Tex

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Posts posted by Tex

  1. 46 minutes ago, onetrack said:

    Tex - Are you sure you have the nomenclature precisely correct? The information below seems to indicate the correct nomenclature is AN5H-26 or AN5H-26A, depending on whether you need a drilled shank or not.

     

    AN5H-26 is a 5/16" x 24tpi bolt with 2-5/16" grip length, with a drilled head, and a drilled shank.  AN5H-26A is a 5/16" x 24tpi bolt with 2-5/16" grip length, with a drilled head, and an undrilled shank.

     

     

     

    Yes that is correct, the first place I contacted told me it would be a AN5H-26A. None one listed had them in stock.

  2. 22 hours ago, horsefeathers said:

    Well, it seems no transponder ,no Class E flying.

    Bloody ridiculous proposal.

     

    I understand Michael Monk is putting a submission together, and would be grateful for feedback from RAA pilots as to how this proposal will affect them.

     

    I stopped reading (but will continue too) at this post to make this reply.

     

    Where exactly is it mandated "no transponder, no Class E flying"? I can fly in Class E now with out one. Where is the proposal to make it so? I cannot find it.

  3. 10 hours ago, skippydiesel said:

    I have minimal experience in this area, however when I need to replace a metric bolt/nut/screw/washers, of a known standard (ie one already fitted to aircraft) I can find the identical fixing at my local specialist (not aviation) nuts & bolts retailer. The fixing suppled do not just look like the original , they are exactly the same, tensile strength, diameter, length (overall & thread) and thread pitch. The only change I have made is to use upgraded lock nuts in critical area (I am not a fan of the ubiquitous "Nylock" in these areas).

     

    To me, (a simple sole with limited brain capacity) American sourced aircraft/parts are a nightmare of multiple measurement types  & systems - why anyone wants to hang on to imperial (US or UK) measuring systems is a level of lunacy that can not be explained by any logical process.

    Happy to give them a try but no good without the details. Who are they?

  4. Agreed erroneous. L/D is not just best glide. Best L/D also changes i.e with weight, as does your glide ratio depending on many factors and more than just published polar data (lets avoid McCready theory discussions).

     

    Required glide ratio or a required glide slope: Same thing, if you have it = safer. Again what relevance is ILS terminology to VFR rec aircraft? None. When I fly a glider my instruments tell me when I am above the required final glide slope and even give the cross section required GR, actual GR (avg) If you have a glide approach you are above or on the (required) glide slope. Pretty simple.

  5. Every landing should be on glide slope IMHO, but I do fly gliders 🙂 You should (MUST) know best glide speed of ANY aircraft you are flying and also min sink speed. I will be corrected on this but I think (particularly with more than one blade) a prop at idle (or free spinning) actually creates more drag that a stationary prop. Ergo: you will glide better with a prop that has stopped than one which is still turning.

     

    Any aircraft can climb in lifting air without thrust, just depends what the min sink speed/sink rate is vs the lift available and how you could use it - including how much skill/knowledge/experience you have. If it was really dangerous to turn the engine off then no soaring in any type of aircraft would be allowed. You should all do your self a favour and go do some training in a glider. As an aviator it will be the best money (and probably least) you ever spent on relevant training.

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  6. As I said above....I have consistently used Lifepo batteries in aircraft for a number of years. They were of the brands Antigravity and EarthX. I have used all variants of LiPo/Lifepo4 etc in hobby use for RC aircraft for many years as well. I have had no issues with the brands I used in my aircraft but (given my experience with RC hobby batteries) would not recommend using the RC variants because you really need do need something to act as a shut off in low or high voltage or balancing cells type situations. The EarthX has a BMS inbuilt for that purpose. The best option IMHO.

     

    Unless weight is an issue (my issue) I do not think they are worth the expense/risk. If you must use one then choose the EarthX brand - very expensive but built for purpose.

     

     

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