Narrabeenrick

Mate just sign up to https://www.pilotpracticeexams.com/  do all the practice exams on the when you can pass them with 100% or close enough you will kill your real exams with points to spare. that how I passed mine about 6 months ago, I still jump on to stay refreshed.

Cheers

Rick

 Ok  it's been a while, but made a bit of progress since last time I posted. I stop posting because they changed this site a bit and couldn't work out how to put pic's up!

the kit turned in July  I've finished the rudder, tail/ elevator with electric trim, flaps and ailerons with electric trim and half way through my first wing.

So what I have learnt so far  in this build is if something doesn't feel right or look right STOP ! go on the forums and ask questions and also CHECK FOR PLAN UPDATES!.

My first mistake was "assumptions"  One would assume that when you buy a brand new kit they would send out ALL of the news updated plans with the kit, NO NO NO

You still need to chase up yourself the latest plans.

The 2 things wrong with the kit so far were all to do with the updates they don't supply and you have to find yourself. Luckily I have met on here a guy building one 1hr drive from me, he has been SOOOOOO helpful.

The fist was the top of the rudder and the second was the bent strip install on the elevator that shows on the plan sliding over and locking the top and bottom horns together, but my strip that was all predrilled was to short, and would only fit under the two horns.

found the updates and finished it off. a lot of time wasted chasing things up like that.

I emailed the factory and they take forever to get back to you, I pointed out the problems and they said they are working towards all aircraft being finished hole predrilled matched hole fitting, so very little drilling if any.

We have a new Zenith deal here in Oz now and he is great to deal with, James Fisher, if you need anything give him a call.

Anyway see you guys in 2 weeks we are off to the Maldives tomorrow, so reply will have to wait.

Cheers

Rick

Thanks Rick. And congratulations to you too on you 650 project. I would love to be able to operate a 650 from my place, but my dodgy little strip needs a 750STOL.

 

I jumped into the Distributor role to fill the need and can say that it was a great decision. The people at Zenair are great and my contacts with prospectice, new and existing clients have all been very positive. Helping people into a Zenair is great too. These kits are such an easy product to promote.

 

Another really positive aspect of my transition into the distributor role in Australia, is that I have had several meetings with my predecessor, Mr Allan Barton. My experience with Allan has been great. Allan has given generously of his time, experience and contacts. I was hoping to get a bit of help navigating the foreign currency maze, and instead received hours and hours of great help on every aspect of the business. The transition from Allan to myself has been very smooth and Allan is pleased that I am picking up where he left off.

 

To answer your question about after-sales support - please do contact me and I will do the best I can to help you out. Like most builders, I am learning every day too. I confess I am not nearly as knowlegable as I would like to be on the details of each assembly or even kit-building, but like everyone else on this forum, we will work together to get a great result.

 

In short, I am good at getting the stuff you need. Not yet the best bloke for any detailed technical experience.

 

Thank for getting in touch and keep us all informed on your progress.

 

Bye for now,

 

James.

cheers mate

Rick

Hi Everyone,I recently rebooted Zenair's Australian representation. My first month in the role has been a great success, with a few sales going through and my Facebook and web pages developing (slowly).

 

My personal build is a CH750STOL, and it is progressing really well. It is true what they say - I am 90% finished, and still have 90% to go.

 

With luck I will be committing Aviation by December (I will not commit to an actual year).

 

I will be at Narromine in October, and at SAAA stand at Avalon in 2019 too, so please come up and say hello.

 

If you can't wait that long to buy a dozen Zenair kits off me (& who could blame you?), then just drop me a line.

 

[email protected]

 

Take it easy aviators.

 

James.

Will any of us with Zenith kits already be able to go through you if we need spare parts or questions?

Cheers

Rick

different rudder top to allow the install of a strobe?

Spray booth built, parts de-burred, scotchbrited { is that a word?} cleaned and wiped down, sprayed with the etch primer and riveted !!! On my way. Two small hiccups. Started to rivet and noticed I had the wrong head in the gun, riveted about 10 rivets so I'll drill them out and replace with the domed head. and second I started to rivet the leading edge skin "under the trailing edge skin, again got about 8 rivets in before I picked up the mistake. So I stopped and will remove those few rivets and install skin correctly tomorrow. At least I pick up the mistakes and rectify them I'd hate to get so far into something and realise a long way down the track that I'd f%&$#@ something up.

Cheers

Rick

So stuffed a bit already ! the top rib reinforcement, You would assume that the planes they sent out with a brand new kit would be the latest plans ? NO !!! on the plans you can see it is just the 65t4-2 top with cap, but that would mean I would have had 2 parts left over, found some other plans on the disk they gave and it shows the 2 parts and how they go on without 65t4-2 .

So proceeded to install it that way. WRONG ! I've been in contact with another fellow building on and he found the most up to date plans.

So now I've ordered 2 new parts!

Also started on the tail, WOW the matched pre drilled holes are a treat after doing the rudder which aren't matched holes. I think what I have done on the tail in 1 1/2hrs if not predrilled and matched would have taken a weekend and a bit ! What a time saver

Cheers

Rick

Prepsol is a wax and grease remover, the metho (denatured alcohol) and water mix deoxidisers the aluminium surface so the etch primer can stick.If you are painting only apply a very light mist covering of the etch primer then primer over the top.

cheers

Hi guys

So I decided to use the Protec "etch pro 426 " It's an 1k epoxy etch primer. I've just finished building a spray booth in my outdoor shed, just installed the extraction fan today. Picked a small compressor yesterday. All I have to do now is chase up what they recommend to use as the thinner on the etch primer and I'm ready to go.

I have a tv and dvd hung on the wall ready to play the "homebuilthelp dvd's " as I build the thing. I've started on the rudder skeleton, just waiting now for all of the final bits for the spraying.

Cheers

Rick

Hi gents

Like I said in the Zenith section my Ch650 has arrived and I'm about to start the build, but I'm still after a few more opinions on corrosion protection for the thing.

I've been told about a company called "Protec" the product is "AP-4441 Protec Etch Primer" what's everyone's opinion? Any other types people have used? BUT Like I started in the zenith forum I'd just like to rule out ANY of the to toxic/carcinogenic types please. {Not interested}

Cheers Boys

Rick

I did quite a bit of research on aluminium corrosion protection as I used to own an aluminium fabrication business and the powder coating company I used chromated the aluminium prior to powder coating. This is a chemical conversion process and stops aluminium from oxidising and changes the colour to a goldish hue. It is very effective but highly toxic as is alodine which was used in the aircraft industry extensively.I used a product called PreKote which is applied with a scotchbrite pad. It is non toxic and has a very pleasant aroma but you are advised to wear rubber gloves gloves when applying it. When it is applied it foams up just like a detergent. After application you must apply primer paint within 24 hours. After application the test to see if it has worked as there is no colour change is to pour water over the area and if it does not web, i.e. the water film clings to the surface uniformly it is ready for priming. I have attached the Prekote MSDS and application procedure pdf files.

 

I bought 1 US gallon which at the time (2014) cost around $90.00 & I still have more than a litre left.

Cheers

Rick

Hi guys

My CH650 kit arrived last week, what a job and a half getting it up my steep curved driveway up to the garage.

Luckily a few of my neighbours were home and come over to give me a hand!

At the moment I've unpacked the grate, made my bench and working on converting part of my outside storage shed into a spray booth. I've joined the SAAA, spoken to a few of the guys who have been very helpful.

I'm probably still a few weeks away from starting the build and trying to learn and ask as many people as I can on their thoughts of corrosion protection. What is everyone's opinion on the best type and why? Pro's and cons of different types. BUT !! before anyone starts I'd just like to rule out ANY of the to toxic/carcinogenic types please. {Not interested}

Cheers

rick

How many hrs have you logged on the build mate?

Cheers

Research and you will find G13's have a cult following worldwide and are modified to all quarters. My point is there are quite a number of Suzuki specialists around who will rebuild them for you at a reasonable cost in Australia.And by "reasonable cost", I mean by automotive standards, or in other words, "very cheap" by aircraft standards.

Cheers

Found another video that explains a bit more

And I found this bit from another forum here is the copy /paste

"The complete package includes Prop, wiring harness, exhaust, ECU, EIS radiator and mounts. The AM1500 runs $12,599. We can customize the package to delete any of the items you don't need or want to custom build yourself. The engine produces 117HP at 6100 RPM ( 3 blade 72 inch prop) cruises around 5100 rpm depending on prop. It has a conservative 1500 hour TBO, with a replacement cost of $2800. That is not a rebuilding, that is a brand new long block from Suzuki ready to bolt your accessories on."

here is the page

SE 5A, Airdrome Aeroplanes SE5A WWI replica fighter experimental aircraft kit - Page 3

Am I reading this right that when it comes time for an overhaul you just buy a new block? What a cheap way to do it.

I liked the video and the blokes qualification seemed impressive.

Hi guys

Anyone got an opinion on these engines? Aeromomentum aircraft engines Anyone seen one /got one ?

here is the website

Aeromomentum Aircraft Engines, LSA, Experimental, Airboats, Aircraft Gearbox, 1500cc, 117hp

and here is a youtube link

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWOj5_0DoQI.

Cheers

Rick

Nice. Just watched it in 360 mode, I've got the Samsung S7 and the Gear VR oculus glasses. Don't thing it works in 360 mode without it [properly] .

I've taken a few videos in flight with the 360 Gear camera, first video is in a Wirraway up at Cessnock and the other in the Foxbat.

keep putting them up! Nice work

Cheers

Rick

Just found this vid on YouTube started to watch it looks interesting, I'll watch the rest later , thought I'd put in up here and see if anyone else has seen it.

"Aircraft Engine Debate, Continental, UL Power, Rotax, Jabiru, Sun N Fun 2016 "

Cheers

Rick

Hi Rick,Had exactly the same problem, I am building a Europa and can use the Jab 3300 or Rotax 9 series, have decided on a Rotax 912ULS.

 

Statistics and figures can be distorted and it’s generally accepted most Rotax failures are the two strokes not the 912 series, however fail to maintain or install or set-up any engine properly and diligently IT WILL fail regardless of make.

 

I have been on both the Jabiru and Rotax engine courses and certified to work on both, and like them both. I have flown circa 400 hours on the Jab 3300 and it’s a super smooth powerful engine, however had 2 failures and a forced landing – flywheel bolts and ignition coils/system failure.

 

I have a few hours on a Rotax and don’t really like the “busy buzz” sound of the Rotax compared to the “growl” of the Jab 6.

 

The Jabiru is very high maintenance compared to the Rotax although the Rotax is more complicated, maintenance costs will probably be similar as Jab parts are cheaper but Jab servicing is every 25 hours compared to Rotax every 100 hours when run only on mogas.

 

Jab engines have their weaknesses as you will probably have read about, however if installed, maintained, monitored and operated correctly they are pretty good. The Rotax is a better engineered engine from a manufacturer with many decades of experience and linked to BMW as a supplier, and the Rotax is now the engine of choice on many certified light aircraft, military drones and factory built micro-lights however the price of a Rotax is significantly higher than the Jab engine.

 

The Rotax will use at least 30% less fuel and was designed for mogas but only gives 100hp compared to Jabs 120hp unless you opt for Rotax 914 / 915 with turbos, fuel injection and lots of electronics however the cost is now bordering on the ridiculous and the engine is getting very complex.

 

I chose the Rotax 912 (100hp with carburettors) because reliability is my main requirement (I will fly 200+hrs/year and long distances if conditions allow), followed by low fuel consumption, low maintenance and no/minimal tinkering.

 

To summarise if you want a powerful engine “with a soul”, don’t mind high maintenance, tinkering and monitoring, don’t mind avgas (Jabs are happier on avgas), higher fuel burn and looking to fly 50-100 hours per year get a Jab.

 

If you want low maintenance, no tinkering / easy set-up, high reliability, low fuel burn on mogas, looking to fly high 200+ annual hours and don’t mind flying a bit of a soulless “busy bee” get a Rotax.

Cheers

Reliability ,dealer backup ,more Power but not costThanks mate

I've had both Rotax and jabiru I personally prefer the Rotax

Any reason why ? Maintenance reasons? reliability? cost?

Cheers

Thanks for all of the advice, suggestions and comments from everyone:clap:. Very informative! Probably even more confused than when I first asked the question I don't think I could go an auto conversion, I've had zero experience with them but just wouldn't feel right, I think it would had to go with a dedicated/designed aero engine, as for which one, still a while before needing the engine, looking at purchasing the kit this Xmas. { As look as the wife lets me!} It will be interesting to see how the new designed jab goes by the time I need to make my purchase.

Cheers guys again for the advice

Rick

In your opening post you only noted the Jab and Rotax engines but what about the D-Motor...is that viable...I can't remember the specs etc

Cheers

Rick

So many good points of view and issues raised. No one has mentioned ULPower yet!

Any reason? Any opinions?