Paul davenport

Please very carefully look at the pcv circuit the oil is separated out and the vapours drawn off

Let’s not be economical with the truth here. Cars don’t go limp home mode because the oil doesn’t get hot enough, (otherwise all my retired clients would be having that problem) . A failed to open thermostat is likely to go into limp mode or check engine light on. Not sure what motors you are talking about but to the best of my knowledge only the diesels (sold and serviced Mazdas up till 2 years ago) were prone to giving a check engine light if they weren’t given a good long drive but mainly because the DPF tended to block up.

Thanks for the article. One would have thought that putting the vapour separator on top of a very hot motor the same effect might have been achieved

And that is your opinion. It’s not the opinion of every automotive engine manufacturer and let’s be honest the car engines of today cop far less maintenance than aero engines. All I am asking is where is the documented proof to the contrary on aero engines. Please don’t be offended when honest questions are asked and only people’s opinions are given as evidence

Nev your like a clock. SO easy to wind up.

ON the Contrary JUST asking WHERE you get this EVIDENCE BASED information. Here SAY and some ones OPINION doesn’t quite qualify as scientific evidence .

NOT SO but where is YOUR Jabiru PRACTICAL experience coming from, infact if aero engines don’t do it where is your knowledge base for the detrimental effects on AERO engine engines. I don’t doubt it’s effects but since we deal in facts where’s the DATA to discredit the effects.

NOT SO but where is YOUR Jabiru PRACTICAL experience coming from, infact if aero engines don’t do it where is your knowledge base for the detrimental effects on AERO engine engines. I don’t doubt it’s effects but since we deal in facts where’s the DATA to discredit the effects.

If you say so. !! The temperatures that the jab operates at and the position of the separator ,allows for water to evaporate off and oil to drain back been that way for ME for 5 years but if there is anyone with first had PRACTICAL EXPERIENCE on a jab over a longer period I would love to know about it

Jabiru sell one bolts straight on . I have made them but if you are paying for materials and labour the jabiru genuine is cheaper. You still need the catch can for water and sludge but the oil senates and drains back reduces the need to top up so often

And all this has what to do with he original post

Key board warriors strike again as so often happen the original question was about Jabiru factory ownership and it’s wandered every where but the original topic I don’t care what your stall speed is how short you land and all the other erroneous waffle some of you espouse I have owned 2 Jabiru’s and think they are fantastic, local owned good value . I hope if the rumours are correct it stays in Australian hands to those of you who entered the conversation in the spirit it was intended thank you

Carry it on the bike in the car plane, motor home camping

Have never weighed it but less than a kilogram

Bought a Kings jump pac around $100 started my motorcycle and saved me a call out so it’s paid for itself starts lawn mowers and I have no doubt it will start the Jab. Flash light is handy as is the recharge facility to charge phones and iPads. I just top up the charge before I leave on trips through the mains power. At $100 it’s cheap insurance just buy one

Haven’t seen any updates. How’s it going

I will be in the South Island touring after walking the Milford track. I would like to meet and see your Avid around the 8th of March

Yep agree with you rogerc except the bit about running at high power settings for long times. Given your experience on VWs I don’t doubt that that is the fact (fan forced cooling in air cooled cars may differ in results as I remember 1200 VWs running almost flat out in my early days in the workshop) . But. Liquid cooled auto conversions now available seem to refute that statement, but as you said if you go down that route you are the the engineer manufacture test person all rolled into one

Some European engines featured main bearings which which got larger to the rear flywheel end of the motor. (Extra webbing on the crank case at the flywheel end helped) To the best of my knowledge VW was one of those engines, so it would make sense to drive from the rear of the engine. I. Have seen pictures of a reduction unit driving from the rear forward to drive the prop achieving a performance increase at the cost of extra weight

I sent you a message I have building instructions

Blokes like you amaze me I am in awe of your talents and wish I had just a small portion of them Great job

Might be but until it’s tested we may never know how good or bad the performance might be. The same could be said of any other effects modification to the airframe / engine on any of the Jabiru aircraft range

I wonder if Jabiru have done any work on or with a CSU or with their limited budget just put it in the too hard basket in any case flange diameter fly wheel or any other factors aside the results on performance would be interesting, if only to prove it wasn’t worth it hence the reason to get someone else to spend their money and test it

Has not stopped at least one person over seas from fitting it, he obviously doesn’t follow this site, so whether it’s ok or not we don’t know what it’s performance change is

All of your opinions duly noted but still speculation till proved otherwise Not sure it was my original post that started this off