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Alan

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About Alan

  • Rank
    Well-Known Member
  • Birthday 11/23/1952

More Information

  • Occupation
    Jabiru 230c
  • Country
    Australia
  1. Thanks for your help. I had assumed a mounting clip swap would be needed as will the BNC for the remote antenna. I was surprised that Jab fitted a remote GPS antenna; with composites I would have thought it unnecessary. Regards Alan
  2. The Garmin 296 GPS in my 10 year old Jab 230 has developed a white flare area in the middle of the LCD. The 296 is no longer available and replacement LCDs do not appear to be available either. I have an Ipad GPS etc. which I use with a kneepad, but would like to fill the gap in the panel. So I need a replacement GPS, preferably able to fit in the panel where the 296 used to reside. Perhaps somebody else has had this problem. Any suggestions/experience etc? Regards Alan
  3. In one of the early videos of the roof where the aircraft impacted, there are clear slice marks presumably cut by a rotating propeller. No doubt the experts can determine whether that engine was at operational rpm from that. Alan
  4. Alan

    MGL CHT/EGT GAUGE

    Rather than just mentioning the TC-3 temperature spread, I really should have qualified that. EGTS vary with operating condition, but are all well within limts. During climb No 4 CHT is always 20°C above the next nearest; if I climb at 80 Knots to 1000ft after take off it would go to above 180°C, climb at 90 Knots and No 4 CHT reaches 170°C. In the circuit or in the cruise CHT are varied but well within limits, but No 4 CHT still leads. The original Jabiru CHT guage (ring under No 6 Sparkplug) always stays well in the green. The CHT sensors are fitted in between the spark plugs and are Camit supplied ones with shields (nice kit). Non-contact temperature check shows embedded sensor approx 5°C above cyclinder head surface (some difference expected). So, I am happy with my Jab 3300 motor. By monitoring, without being obsessive, all CHTs and less so all EGTs, the motor can be kept away from any damaging over temperature conditions. Run only on Avgas. Climb out at 90 knots. (Step climb in the summer as required). Cruise revs no less than 2850 rpm (typically 20-21 l/hr, operate at less than 19 l/hr for any length of time and EGTs climb). Keep all temps well inside limits. Oil and filter change every 25 hours (oil analysis and Ferrography {only cause we have a lab, its not really neccessary or indicative} and filter cut and wash). Leakdown check every 25 hours. Engine now 385 hrs. Leakdowns all good. Currently a happy Jab 3300. Two questions for concensus opinions - 1. The way I operate the engine avoids excessive temperatures, so I have not bothered to look at fiddling with the ducting. However, I understand that small deflectors can be fitted inside the ducts to direct airflow more evenly to all cyclinders. Is this worth trying? 2. My Engine has always had flow deflectors fitted between the cyclinders, these are fitted from below. I note that on newer engines if they are fitted at all it is on top of the cyclinders. Do I get them removed or moved to the top. Alan
  5. Alan

    MGL CHT/EGT GAUGE

    I have one in my J230 and the instrument is excellent, the reading spread a little less so.
  6. I am not happy with tone and attitude of some contributors to this site. However, they have achieved what they set out to do and ultimately, I feel it will be to my safety advantage to be able to choose to modify out some of the fragilities of my Jab engine . Out of the six Jabiru powered aircraft operating here, and they are all actively used and I have never heard of any engine problems - but that is irrelevant as in the big picture it is too small a sample. I work in reliability and would not be happy using rumour, inuendo and some of very poorly qualified statistics that has been peddled here to sentence any machine. Surely the reliability critieria has to based on faults per hours flown across the fleet of each engine type, only RAA could have those data. Where is it in this case? The Camit / Jabiru arrangement looks from a distance to be a very odd relationship, especially with Jabiru adamantly refusing to allow Camit upgrades to be approved and fitted. Now CASA has stepped in and one solution could be to mandate/allow some of these upgrades. Jabiru owners will then have to put their hands in their pockets to get their aircraft released from any CASA applied restrictations. This would be a win for all but the owners:- Jabiru get to sell aircraft with more reliable engines - Jabiru win. CASA is seen to be acting - CASA win. Operators have the option of upgrading - Operator win (but at a significant cost, so irate). Jabiru can continue to say the upgrades are not required, but CASA imposed - Jabiru win because it claims not to be to blame for Operators additional costs. Is that too sinical? Alan
  7. Alan

    Auxiliary fuel tank (temporary installation)

    I find that if I go below 20 l/hr in cruise my EGTs rise, the lower the flow the worse it gets. I generally set to a min of 21 l/hr unless turbulence requires a lower airspeed - then closely monitor the EGTs. Alan
  8. Alan

    Jabiru 3300

    Not sure I would be happy "doing mustering work at 65knots" in my J230! Low revs = lean mixture and burnt or weakened valves. Always operate 2850+rpm for cool if not even EGTs. I concurr Franks comments re fuel burn/speed with J230. Alan
  9. Alan

    What grade of oil to use in a Jabiru J170?

    In addition to cutting the filter open as recommended, I have done "Ferrography" on my used oil (magnetically extracting the ferrous wear particles to a microscope slide and examining the wear particles under a microscope. I find "Filter Patch" can be blinded by carbon and dirt) and SOA at each oil change. I know this is a totally "over the top" approach, but I have easy access to oil analysis facilities. Nothing really abnormal ever found, but interestingly the amount of corrosion (barrels?) found in the oil, if only in minor amounts, reflects pretty much the usage and climate of FNQ. The motor always has its exhaust and intake covers put in place while still hot - just shows how pervasive water can be. Alan
  10. Alan

    What TBO times are people getting on the 3300?

    John Avgas for 99% of the time. I have topped up with 40 litres of BP Ultimate on three occassions just to ensure a no diversion home run with reserve. 2900 rpm gives me 21 L/hr and nice cool EGTs. Alan
  11. Alan

    What TBO times are people getting on the 3300?

    Engine #1039 - 35o hours to date. Good stable leak downs. Always cruised at 2900 rpm. Funny how Jabiru attracts the "I've been told" comments when the request was addressed to users. Alan
  12. My J230 has the symtoms described, but I have the fuel flow sensor installed in the wrong place! (I could not feed the sensors cables down the central duct - try as I might with all sorts of cable threaders). My fuel pump is in the fuel line between the electric pump and the mechanical pump. This is warned against in the fuel computer installation instructions. As a result, when the electric fuel pump is on my fuel flow appears to increase 2-3 litres per hour at idle and 5-6 litres per hour at 2900 rpm. I never noticed any fuel leakage or engine condition change when the electric pump is switched back on. For example after a long flight when the engine is stable when I switch back on the electric pump in preparation landing, the motor note, revs, CHT, and EGT, remain the same no matter what the pump configuration. So I think it is the pulses after the electric fuel pump unevenly driving the sensor rotor speed; the signal processing must not average out this affect leaving the fuel flow/consumption reading erroneously high (safer than an under reading error). I have never left my electric pump on in the cruise long enough to check whether extra fuel is actually being consumed, but I believe it is not. If running both pumps together caused additional fuel usage then either there is a leak in the pipe work or the Carb needle valve is becoming compramised. If anyone can tell me the trick to threading cables down the central spine of my J230c (it has been done on another J230c with no problem), I would be grateful. My J230c came out without the central tank warning light and I would like to fit one. While not trusting the Jab fuel guages I have never had a problem. Pre flight tank dipping, calibating the fuel flow sensor makes me feel reasonably secure, even when I can end up with one tank indicating almost empty and the other 3/4 full. Regards Alan
  13. Is the fuel sensor between the pumps or anywhere after the electric pump? The electric pump will put pulses in the fuel pressure that affects the fuel flow sensor rotor. Alan
  14. In a Jab 230 it is: Wing tanks are both connected to the central (header?) tank. The fuel then goes through the electric pump, the mechanical fuel pump to the carb. There is no return to tank fuel. The pressure guage sender is between the mechanical fuel pump and the carb. If you have a fuel flow meter it should be in the line before the electrical pump. Start up is. Electrical pump on for a few seconds then off - Primes fuel system and verifies function of electric pump. Start motor, taxi and do checks on mechanical pump only - verifies function of mechanical pump. Switch on electric pump for take off, landing and anywhere else you want to be doubly certain of fuel feed. Alan
  15. Alan

    What do recreational flyers do?

    Condition Monitoring Services (Vibration, oil and grease analysis). Regards Alan
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