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Sierra 100 Kit Build Underway

kgwilson

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#41
I have done a bit this month and now have the fuselage 90% complete with only 90% to go.

I needed to make the rudder post 20mm wide at the top from 40mm tube so I thought squeezing it between 2 bits of 4 by 2 in my 4" engineers vice would do it. Wrong, I broke the vice so ended up whacking the tube between the 4 by 2 with a decent hammer. This worked well even though the post was a bit ripply. Rivetted the rudder horn on the bottom & shaped the nylon block at the top riveted it on & trial fitted the post. It was spot on. I then bent up some 25 thou sheet to make the rudder ribs & set it all up with clamps to make sure I had the right amount of movement left & right. I cut out the 2 sides for the rudder bent the leading edges a bit to go round the post & riveted it all up. Next I bonded the trailing edge with super strength araldite & it was all done. The rudder & fin will be capped with some foam & resin later.

I have already fitted the undercarriage leg but removed it while I installed the front bulkhead behind the fuel tank & then measured & cut out the 32 thou sheet for the front deck. Pre-bent the sides and pulled it on with some ratchet ties. I drilled & clecoed it on, marked it for trimming & cabin cutout & the took it off, cut all the excess bits off, put it back on & filed & sanded the edges till it looked smooth & straight. I took it off again & marked the fuel cap hole location, drilled the hole & put it back on again. It all fits well & looks good so I will remove it & store it away till the engine goes in.

Next step is to install the main wheels & the canopy plus elevator trim & start on the wings.

Progress pics are attached.

S5001675.JPG S5001687.JPG S5001686.JPG S5001684.JPG S5001685.JPG
 

Virago

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#42
Hi Kevin! You're going like a house on fire there! I too broke a (chinese) vice bending the diagonal (seat back support) tubing. I've slowed down a bit lately as I've been working on fibreglass bits. I have to agree with Sloper ... I hate fibreglass!!! I'm also waiting on the seats/upholstery which I'd like to have before deciding on a final fore/aft position for the rudder pedal bars. With no adjustment available, I need to get that right. Seems the upholsterer in Taree has a three month backlog of work. How happy are you with the rudder pedal height? I would have thought it would be a bit difficult to lift feet up to the pedal tops, particularly as the need for brake application can come out of the blue quite suddenly. I've been considering lowering mine by an inch but am wide open to thoughts and suggestions. John.
 

kgwilson

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#43
I have always lifted my feet off the floor when applying toe brake force so I don't have a problem. The only issue with moving the pedals down is the reduction in mechanical advantage though you could make a linkage to overcome that. You could put in an electrically operated pedal adjustment system as is installed in Garry's training aircraft.

If I haven't got it right I'll just move them.

Kevin
 

Garry Morgan

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#45
What I did on a sierra is make a flat bar and drill holes in it as a strap, cable to one end, and bolt it to the horn in the middle of the strap ,this will give you some adjustment ,and for other size pilots.
 

Virago

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#46
Thanks Garry, I remember now you telling me that before. The fuselage is coming off the bench onto trestles today so I can finalize the pedals and start skinning the bottom and sides. John.
 

kgwilson

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#48
Looks fantastic. I am looking forward to seeing Gary and his aircraft at Natfly this Easter.
Bernie,

Be sure to go for a fly with Garry or Tim preferably in the Jab 3300 powered Sierra. Power to burn, 130 knots cruise, 1200fpm climb out at 80kts 2 up with full fuel, superb light handling, (you only need thumb & forefinger on the stick & hardly any rudder), no adverse yaw, nose down attitude straight & level gives a great view down, ahead & of course up, excellent control & feedback at low speed (40 knots) with a nice little buffet about 10knots before full stall. The strength of the airframe is now legendary (think Ferris Wheels). You will be impressed. I was and am but of course I am biased.

Kevin
 

Guernsey

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#49
Bernie,
Everything that kgwilson has said and yes we are biased but for very good reasons.
kjfab (my Son-in-law Kevin) will also be on Gary Morgans stand with his 3300 powered Morgan Sierra.
Alan.
 

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Bernie Knight

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#52
Kevin, Alan - thanks will make sure I catch up with them. No doubt they will be busy and I will head up to their base to possibly take a better look.

I have seen figures of 130 cruise. I have also seen some discussion here on the Forum where owners had made some real improvements to the cruising speed.

I will have a look for this again - no doubt Gary and his Morgan owners will be up on this..
 
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#53
Hi Kevin

Hows the build coming along? You have done a great job so far in not very long, I've got the start of my kit waiting at home for me (0nce I get home from work). Only three more days and I will be able to start the build :cheezy grin:.

Cheers

Jamie
 

kgwilson

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#55
Hi Jamie,

Garry & Kristine flew up to Grafton the other day for a cup of coffee & he mentioned to me that you were about to start your build.

I don't seem to have made a lot of progress since the end of March but my log shows 33.5 hours work. Total hours to date is 289. I bonded the trailing edges of the rudder & elevators so put a bead of lightweight filler on them & sanded it back so the trailing edges are seamless. I also cleaned up the elevator tips & filled & sanded to remove any trace of the mould seam & did the same for the inboard ribs so it all looks like 1 piece. Filled other gaps like the fin to turtledeck & turtledeck to rear bulkhead. All the hand sanding seemed to take forever but it looks good.

I also went down to the local surfboard factory & they gave me some polyurethane foam offcuts to make the fin & rudder tips. I shaped the foam and glued it on with polyester resin & then covered it with some glass cloth & polyester, added some filler & sanded it all back.

I have recently installed the axles on the undercarriage & set up the disc callipers cutting out the shape in the leg ends.

I reckon it's pretty important to get the axle camber & toe in spot on for nice straight taxiing with the castoring nosewheel so without any fancy tools I put the undercarriage leg on & levelled the fuselage both horizontally & longitudinally. I marked the centreline on each side of the U/C leg where the axles will be bolted in & with a vertical level, marked the centreline spot on the floor & put a straight edge across. I did the same each side of the firewall. Each side was not perfect but I made sure I got them both 90 deg to the A/C centreline. I was then able to set the camber 17mm down & toe in 3.2mm forward with my level clamped to a block of wood & marking & measuring the distances.




I am just going to install the forward hatch door & then move the fuselage outside and under a weatherproof lean to at the side of the house so I can build the wings. I am going down to Taree for a day to run through all this with Garry before I start & am thinking of installing wing tanks to give me 170 litres total capacity.

I'll post some progress photos tomorrow.

Cheers

Kevin


 

Virago

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#57
Hi Kevin, Great pics! You're making real good progress and I can see you're going to end up with a superb aircraft! Neat work buddy! Now, if I could just get my act into gear and upload some photos... John.
 

kgwilson

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#60
I haven't done the final installation but I have followed the Matco manual & installed the floating callipers at the rear of the undercarriage leg. They can go in front but putting them on the back gives easy access to the bleed nipple. I have put the wheels on & the callipers float freely so I can't see any reason why they would not work.