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A new Nynja in the area


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Lookin' good Mike! 90% done, 90% to go eh?

Hi Getting on with the build, getting some of the static system plumbed, and the switches/ circuit breakers, ign switch guards etc. Should make good progress this comming week.

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Took the Nynja to the beach today and caught up with some flying friends.  The weather was a 15 knots and the tide was out and the sand hard which made a perfect LZ.  Also a mates had his new Skyrange

Did a change out of the fuel line between the electric fuel pump and the through fire wall connector (5 years and the gates hose was still soft and pliable - good USA quality);  planned to fit a fuel

Fitted in an early morning flight in the Nynja for just over the hour out to the coast for a look around after fitting the new fuel hose and valve tap at the electric fuel pump outlet.  Have 258 hours

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It's starting to look very airplane-ish! The panel looks great.Have you got the engine fully plumbed in now?

Fuel lines not run a yet. Fitted the collector tank behind right seat last night. Will plumb from the collector tank to to engine this week including the fuel pump being wired and mounted. Struggling with the master switch fitup a bit. May finish up using a 20amp single pole and have a relay for the Carb heat (its requires 20A C/B) and other high amp draws.

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

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Mike:

 

If you can, run most of your fuel lines with aluminium fuel line rather than rubber. No matter which rubber hose you use, if you run 98 unleaded in your plane (and you should) you will get fuel fumes in the cabin after the plane has sat for a while. The octane modifiers in 98 are very volatile and evaporate and can permeate the rubber hose.

 

 

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These are images of the collector / surge tank fitted, the fuel tank fitted into the wing (note retaining clamps not yet adjusted) and some images of the buss bar and some wiring.

 

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The tank seems to be a little bit too far to the rear. normally align the front of the tank with the stitch line in the lower wing fabric. it is not critical but the tank will probably fowl the upper wing battens in that position. Greg.

 

 

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Hi

 

Made the fuel return line 3/16" barb and pressed the restricter into the end [ see comparison in image of a standard barb and one with the restrictor pressed in]. This makes it obvious as to which is the return line.

 

Also used a WDG pipe clamp and a nylon tube block to support the mid section of the throttle torque tube against bending movement when working against the carb throttle spring action; it rotates freely for throttle control and also attached is a smaller 'P' clamp to hold the wire harness away from the aileron bell crank.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Chris

 

These are some images of door and latch setup.

 

 

 

Re the door 16mm 'U' aluminium used for the upper frame and forward door frame piece that hinge rivets to. The front end of the top piece is cut so the top is intact and the two side are bent to tuck inside the hinge 'U' piece. Also the round bottom piece is squashed a bit to fit inside the 'U' at hinge. (You will see this in one of the inmages.) and then secured with a counter sunk rivet.

 

The Lower red latch is pivoted up to unlock the bottom and then pulls the rear latch tounge away to allow the door to open. I havn't fitted the lock striker plate lands as yet but you see the method.

 

Let me know what you think.

 

Cheers Mike

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Redid the radiator mounts to allow for engine movement. And have the grounds going to three main posts; one behind panel, one behind seats and another buss bar as the main. [Note the grounds arn't tightened as still finishing off the wiring.]

 

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Top Looking work mate she's starting to take shape bet ya pleased with yourself she going to be a sweet machine when ya finished ,,

 

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Getting on with the panel, labled up some bits so now know what's what:)

 

Hoping to complete the checking and test of wiring this weekend and then power up some of the panel units.

 

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Wow! The panel looks great Mike!

Thanks Scott.

Getting there. I've got tomorrow and all next week off so should get alot more done. I'll work on some small things tomorrow and clean up then on Saturday I'll start on the checking and testing of the wiring and should finish by Sunday. Not hurrying anything. Only have half a day Sat; mates birthday catchup.

 

Don't want any smoke, sparks or sizzle when bringing on the volts.

 

Then I'll look at finishing that centre tube for the windscreen at the front centre and to the back tube. then fit the prop and read up on the engine sb's and initial sart prep procedures; so hoping by the next weekend may have done a start up. Its still at home and aiming for everthing ready just after mid August.

 

I put did silcone under the lexan for the windows etc.

 

How's is your new bird coming along? Must be getting close.

 

Cheers and regards

 

Mike

 

 

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The new bird is progressing, slowly. We're still working out where it will come into the country.

 

No, you don't want any sparks and you don't want to let the magic smoke out of anything. It's very hard to get it back in.

 

Worse yet, you don't want to have any battery drainers. The best way to check is to use a multimeter that has an amps function. Turn everything off, and then disconnect one battery lead. Then connect the ammeter in series between the battery and its disconnected lead. If you have the GT50 wired up correctly, you might see a few microamps flowing into the system, but that's all. If it gets as high as tens of milliamps, then something is drawing current and will flatten the battery given enough time between engine runs. The most likely culprit will be if you have the regulator wired so that it is on all the time.

 

 

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Guest Maj Millard

Nice looking panel Mike......couple of ways of doing the initial crank over for oil pressure. I like to have all oil lines connected and tight, oil in tank, plugs out, and a slight pressure into the oil tank vent line...I think Rotax say max 15psi. Keep the pressure on while cranking ( blowing into the vent line can do it....steady pressure )

 

CAUTION: with plugs out (not grounded) you cannot turn engine over with the IGN switches ON otherwise you can destroy your IGN boxes. Looks like you can turn your engine over with IGN switches of. You will need power to your panel on some installations to bring gauges alive.

 

Depending on installation some bring oil pres up after about twenty prop rotations....some take longer. Rest starter motor if multiple cranks are required. Oil pres comes up on gauge slowly but once rising will continue to. Double check you've got all oil lines installed per Rotax installation instructions. And make sure you leave those IGN switches OFF.

 

 

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Thanks Ross

 

Not in hurry to start engine for first time. Will follow your advice. I would like to get the propellor on by weekend following this one. To do that I'll need to hand turn the engine over to set the blade pitches. Can I do this with out doing the bleed or is it best to do at time of completing all the actions to do initial startup?

 

Regards

 

Mike

 

 

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The new bird is progressing, slowly. We're still working out where it will come into the country.No, you don't want any sparks and you don't want to let the magic smoke out of anything. It's very hard to get it back in.

 

Worse yet, you don't want to have any battery drainers. The best way to check is to use a multimeter that has an amps function. Turn everything off, and then disconnect one battery lead. Then connect the ammeter in series between the battery and its disconnected lead. If you have the GT50 wired up correctly, you might see a few microamps flowing into the system, but that's all. If it gets as high as tens of milliamps, then something is drawing current and will flatten the battery given enough time between engine runs. The most likely culprit will be if you have the regulator wired so that it is on all the time.

Hi Scott

 

I got the 5 pin relay today. Got a bit more done painted the flap fairing pieces, put prop on and pitched, put covering on the binacle top piece also got the centre support tube for cabin roof lexan / windscreen in place now.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

 

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Hi ScottI got the 5 pin relay today. Got a bit more done painted the flap fairing pieces, put prop on and pitched, put covering on the binacle top piece also got the centre support tube for cabin roof lexan / windscreen in place now.

 

Cheers

 

Mike

Mike:

Did you get a socket for the relay? You can connect the relay with just the utilux connector pins on the wires, but a socket makes replacement, or removal for troubleshooting much easier.

 

 

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