rick morawski Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 Yes I know what they are for in a general sense. But before I go drilling holes I would like to know where they go. My manual has no chapter on carpet or angles that go on top of it. A pic of some ones floor or a pic of the extract of the manual would be most helpful.Lyndon I have not seen an instruction on the carpet and i have built six of them. Just separate all the parts and dry fit them where you can. some of those bits I've never figured out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 Thanks for your input. I'm happy to do that as long as the parts I have go there and not somewhere important. I would rather ask a stupid question than make a stupid mistake. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 My dry run. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 6, 2016 Author Share Posted September 6, 2016 My torque tube is binding and has a woof in it. Now I have to straighten it ??? Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyfox1 Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Where is it bent and how did it bend Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 6, 2016 Author Share Posted September 6, 2016 The end has been welded on incorrectly from what I can see. As the elevator arm lines up perfect with the front part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyfox1 Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Just looking at the pic you might have to cut the welds off start again don't want bend the tube you haven't got much to play with looks like it's the left side needs fixing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyfox1 Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Just saw the last pic now you can see the problem shouldn't be to hard to fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 6, 2016 Author Share Posted September 6, 2016 It's even not right on the horizontal. I know a good welder. He can grind it and fix it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1Phils Posted September 6, 2016 Share Posted September 6, 2016 Filter issues. Bugger me my cheap filter was to long for fitting the exhaust. So I found a Short one off a Briggs and Stratton engine. Hi Lyndon, I had a leaking oil seal on my rotax uls 100 hp 0il filter housing and used a brigs and stratton oil filter to get home, worked ok and changed back to a rotax filter when I got home. Worked for me. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 6, 2016 Author Share Posted September 6, 2016 I'm sure it would. Specs are specs. That filter fits a Rotax a Briggs and Stratton and a Kawasaki and about one hundred more engines. I'm not using a Briggs and Stratton filter. But a balwin filter that fits a Briggs and Stratton. It's not from repco but from one of the biggest filter suppliers in Australia . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 6, 2016 Author Share Posted September 6, 2016 I have cut and moved the end straight. I would be interested to know if anyone else has had a issues with it being to close to the seat once fitted. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 I had it professionally welded. It's chrome molybdenum.. the welder thinks if its reasonable amount of load goes thru it it should be replaced. Because it's not as good as using new steel. Eg it has nicks. Grinding marks etc. I'm new to this ??? Has anyone had experience success or not welding and repairs on chrome molybdenum. I'm thinking not huge amount of load is transmitted thru it. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 Neat as Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Has anyone had experience success or not welding and repairs on chrome molybdenum. How many chrome moly framed planes get bent and rebuilt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 Lots I presume. Just being anal as it does control the plane . Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick morawski Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 I've had a couple engine mounts repaired and autopilot servo brackets welded onto the torque tube (by an aircraft welder) no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 Thanks. I'm sure it will be fine.Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 On my torque tube fitting on the rear cabin area where the reo plate is fitted with the nylon Bush ???. In this place I found another reo angle in my kit that is not listed in my manual. Clearly an upgrade during manufacturing. Keeping in mind mine is an early planes about 2008 or 9 i believe. I do see on some buiks that in this area two angular pieces are on each side of the torque tube and run forward the rear of the cabin. I dont have these and guess it's a later upgrade. This area does have flex and would benefit from some further reinforcement. Any light that can be shed on this would be great. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 Same guy who welded my torque tube drilled this hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 Doesn't make for a nice fit. Mmm. Lyndon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rankamateur Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Same guy who welded my torque tube drilled this hole. Bet he wears glasses! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lyndon Posted September 9, 2016 Author Share Posted September 9, 2016 With no lenses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyfox1 Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 That will make it easier to turn with hole like that don't think he used a drill press for that one , Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blueadventures Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 Same guy who welded my torque tube drilled this hole. Hi Lyndon If you need to re drill to get the bolt orintation right you could check with Reg about internal chrome moly sleeving that end and welding or riverting the sleeve in place and re drilling correctly; as I have no exact knowledge of the part this may not be a option. (Just an idea you could check into.) Nothing worse than having something not right and it buggs you forever. At the right moment I'd give the driller a bit of feedback - maybe suspend his hole drilling authority ;-) (your call.) Good ways to drill holes are with a jig or in some instances the following can be a suitable method / way of drilling through tube - get a piece of paper and wrap it around the tube. Ensure the top side lines up when wrapped. Then where the wrap overlaps its self, mark the paper (thats the circumfrence. Next fold the piece of paper and fold in half and mark that point (This is half way round.) Now mark on the tube where one hole needs to be; place the paper end there, wrap the paper around the tube, line up the edges. Make sure the start end of the paper is on the first hole centre then mark the tube at the halfway mark. These two marks are now directly opposite each other and perpendicular. First centre punch, then drill say a 2mm hole at each place (this stops drill wander) then work up to the hole size you need. Hope that explains the process. I enjoy your thread and it adds to the way of sharing info. Best regards Mike 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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