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Lyndons Savannah VG Thread


Lyndon

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Well that will be another day. Moving that compaired to working under the plane in the hole will be a breeze. I have noticed that with full flap my alerons are not as smooth as compared with zero flap. I've had a look and fiddled with it all. Seems like the hymen joints are at there max and complaining somewhat.

 

Lyndon

 

 

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Well that will be another day. Moving that compaired to working under the plane in the hole will be a breeze. I have noticed that with full flap my alerons are not as smooth as compared with zero flap. I've had a look and fiddled with it all. Seems like the hymen joints are at there max and complaining somewhat.Lyndon

Ha ha. Seriously though, check that you have used the correct washers on the "Heim" joint. They are very small spacers really, usually a pack of them in the kit. Follow the instructions, two on one side, one on the other. Then the ball joint will not rub on the levers.

 

 

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I knew as soon as you mentioned those little washers / spacers. I had seen them and wondered what they are for. Went back to the manual and yep it says fit the an - 5 washers. Which I did and which don't work. Even looked in parts manual and it doesn't list those nice little washers. Guess its something they added along the way. Glad I mentioned it and even more glad I got an answer. Its a pretty important part of the plane.

 

Lyndon

 

 

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I take it this is what I'm after for spacers/washer for my hiem joints

 

Lyndon

 

If so I'm one short. Also I see where they attach to the flaps the book says you can swap the special washers for standard an960-5

 

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I would like to praise Reg. If anyone thinking of building a plane take into consideration the after sales back up. I can only say that his knowledge and promtness and range of parts etc on the shelf is exemplary. It's a great thing having that kind of back up in Australia

 

Lyndon

 

 

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My engine has a honey well oil pressure sender. It has two wires. I'm presuming an earth or a power supply is the extra one. ( my kit only has one wire in the loom ). Secondly will my gauge be suitable for this sender. I see a lot of issues with leaking senders etc. So keep this or just buy the correct sender new.

 

Thoughts Lyndon

 

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My engine has a honey well oil pressure sender. It has two wires. I'm presuming an earth or a power supply is the extra one. ( my kit only has one wire in the loom ). Secondly will my gauge be suitable for this sender. I see a lot of issues with leaking senders etc. So keep this or just buy the correct sender new.Thoughts Lyndon

The sender is the later 0-20mA type and needs to be used with a compatible gauge(you need a plug and terminals). Your kit probably has the older gauge used with the VDO resistive type sender, but you haven't shown us what type you have.

If there is an incompatibility issue you have to either change gauge or sender. Probably easiest to get a resistive sender because you don't need to muck around with the wiring. Downside is those resistive senders can break down often.

 

Rick

 

 

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It seems you can't buy the Honeywell any more. ( So if it fails ). It apparently has the 1/8 th ntp thread. From what I can see buy the the cheap vdo sender that suits my engine and loom. Then remote fit on the firewall. These kits are available in the USA. I would prefer to buy in Australia. Does anyone know availability in Australia.

 

Lyndon

 

 

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I'm also interested in why there is a jumper wire joining the coils then it used to go somewhere and that is cut.Lyndon

Hi Lyndon Have a read of this info re making a oin removal tool. Marks is a good Idea; I have made to i.d sizes for my tool box. Rotax 912 narrow flat pin removal tool

Cheers

 

Mike

 

 

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