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My Savannah S model rebuild Blog


Kyle Communications

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Just searched for them..only here in Qld. they know me well i go there all the time they have literally every thread and every fitting type and not expensive either

 

 

https://www.allhose.com.au/?utm_source=googleads&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=AHVbrandedphraseresp&gclid=CjwKCAiA5Y6eBhAbEiwA_2ZWISO_PrJhNDN1vmVEbRjqlCnGKDQ9GgecdfRHlhtMA3eIxfDpM3GYghoCH3wQAvD_BwE

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16 hours ago, Kyle Communications said:

mike i have used the pink teflon tape a lot and it doesnt seem to deteriorate at all with fuel. I always make sure there is no tape in contact with any fuel path its just to build up the threads and do what it is suppsoed to do..... I have used it on car stuff as well. But only the pink stuff

 

With tape there is a risk bits could end up in the fuel lines. Loctite 567 is a safer option.

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If you put the tape anywhere near the openings of the fittings yes. I always have it back about 1mm from the edge that way it is only there to seal the threads. 

Besides I didnt have any of that loctite but I have used it before and found it wasnt that great. The original savannah fuel splitter blocks leak like a siev.....used it on that and it didnt seal it for good..it started leaking again after a year. Anytime I have used the pink telflon tape..never had any issue at all be it farm equipment, vehicle or aircraft. So I am comfortable using it

 

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  • 2 months later...

I have been trying to get time on Mabel but spending a lot of time up at the farm trying to get the house finished over this past month or so. .  Currently have the avionics wired but cant do all the setups or checks of sensors until I start the engine.  All fluids are in and no leaks for about 1 month so thats a good start. The last thing I needed to do was get the choke organised and as anyone who has done a rotax choke they are a real PIA. Mick from Oakey made a unit up for his aircraft and Danny looked at it as he needed one for his Esqual..Danny redseigned it a little bit and once I saw it the bloody thing is easy and brilliant. Its self leveling across the long and short cables. The springs on the chokes of course pull the choke loop back in.     I CNC'd a acetal block and danny used his small tube bender and made me a SS loop. Ordered some nylon lines bike cable outer and some 1mm SS wire from bunnings.  Set it up tonight and it slides nicely and looks like it will be a treat. So once I fit that..opefully tomorrow I will get Mabel out to the carport and fit the Eprop and hopefully go for a engine start on the weekend.

If anyone is interested I may get some made for sale. It can be mounted flush behind a dash or under the bottom lip of your dash. Just need a alu bracket. I may modify it a little so it can be bolted in from the front of the dash as well. 

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10 hours ago, Kyle Communications said:

I have been trying to get time on Mabel but spending a lot of time up at the farm trying to get the house finished over this past month or so. .  Currently have the avionics wired but cant do all the setups or checks of sensors until I start the engine.  All fluids are in and no leaks for about 1 month so thats a good start. The last thing I needed to do was get the choke organised and as anyone who has done a rotax choke they are a real PIA. Mick from Oakey made a unit up for his aircraft and Danny looked at it as he needed one for his Esqual..Danny redseigned it a little bit and once I saw it the bloody thing is easy and brilliant. Its self leveling across the long and short cables. The springs on the chokes of course pull the choke loop back in.     I CNC'd a acetal block and danny used his small tube bender and made me a SS loop. Ordered some nylon lines bike cable outer and some 1mm SS wire from bunnings.  Set it up tonight and it slides nicely and looks like it will be a treat. So once I fit that..opefully tomorrow I will get Mabel out to the carport and fit the Eprop and hopefully go for a engine start on the weekend.

If anyone is interested I may get some made for sale. It can be mounted flush behind a dash or under the bottom lip of your dash. Just need a alu bracket. I may modify it a little so it can be bolted in from the front of the dash as well. 

IMG_1928.thumb.jpeg.edb6777408fc589ccfdaf9eda0c44fc4.jpegIMG_1927.thumb.jpeg.82c4324e589ac3773eedaed73518484a.jpegIMG_1926.thumb.jpeg.88ec353cc8daacf721164903e498f28f.jpeg

    

 

Mark have a look at the Nynja build manual.  Choke is just the wire and a loop on the panel that is in a 'U' of plastic tube and rivet head are the guides through the panel.  Bowden outer are between firewall and the carby brackets.  Works faultless and simple.

Edited by Blueadventures
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2 hours ago, Kyle Communications said:

Havent seen it..can you take a picture  and post it here?

 

Bowden cable outlets from firewall to carbs. Hard plastic tube over finger pull area. Rivet heads as through panel guides. Works well, no issues last 5 1/2 years 330 hours. Cheers. A great KISS method.

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Edited by Blueadventures
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Hi Bob

 

Just hammertone paint. I do like that finish. The Girlfriend I actually had the later dash Hammertone powder coated..that was really good.

 

I have to say the choke mod is so much better than the ICP thing...Think I will do the same on the RANS when I finally start it.

 

Was hoping to start the engine tomorrow but got sidetracked yeasterday..was layed up in bed most of the day after some wierd reaction to Typhoid/HepA injection I needed to have before going to Thailand next month for a mates wedding and still felt crap this morning. Sort of came good this arvo and the boss had me doing dog fencing here 😞. So later next week or on the weekend I hope to get it started. It hasnt been running for more than 5 years but of course has new cyclinders and pistons with the big bore. It should be fine

 

Mark

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some may have seen this already. But Mabel now has a fully running heart. The engine hasnt been run for 5 years..well the bottom end anyway. Just new cylinders and pistons fitted. I put oil down the plugs and let it settle for a day or so then turned it over to make sure it was well lubed. Did the air pressure oil purge to make sure I had oil pressure then went for a start. It started so much faster than I expected as I was winding it over the throttle slipped towards full as I have springs on my throttle mod as I am using a McFarlane throttle and it keeps the bowden cable nice and tight. Frightened the crap out of me as it raced towards full power but mangaed to get the throttle back quickly. The mrs was videoing and missed the inital turnover but it literally took 2 sec of winding and started as soon as I flicked the one swith on. The burst of smoke is obviously the oil I put in the cylinders. I have to say the modified Rotax muffler I have on the the engine is really quiet. It is 6.4 litres instead of the std 5.6 litres. Hopefully this gives me a bit more power. Havent done a carb balance yet but the Eprop makes it run incredibly smooth even though it does need a carb balance down the lower rpm. The video is short as it is edited but I ran the engine to 55 degC oil temp before shutting it down

 

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Not far now actually 🙂  Work on the S-21 will be started on the wings after easter. A friend of mine is going to start the wings for me. He built a beautiful S20 with metal wings (same as the S21). stunning workmanship on all of the build.

That will give me more time and I can concentrate n getting Mabel to the hangar then I can start the tailfeathers and fuselage on "The Mistress" 🙂

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Making some headway now. The cowl I did all actually fits :)...avionics wiring all finished except for radio ptt in the sticks. twin sticks all fitted, pedals back in and new brake lines. When I get back from Thailand I will start cutting the windscreen and cabin top...then its almost off to the hangar for Mabel 🙂

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Marty

 

I am going to build them up from varying grades of foam then get them upholstered. Peter Bleys made his a similar way...I have some pics somewhere and will post them. This way you can make the seats comfortable..the std sav thin seats are crappy. The way I have done my seat bases I always was going to build my own seats like peters. Peter flew into the farm around xmas time and I was looking at his finished seats and they are really nice. Would be really comfy in bumpy conditions

 

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I recall reading somewhere about how the seat must be made from different densities of foam to protect your spine in the case of a very hard landing or, worse still, crash. I recall any details (on account of me not thinking that I’d be making my own seats), but is that what all the various colours are in your picture?

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9 hours ago, Kyle Communications said:

This is the way Peter did his seats

seat1.jpg.8214cff3332c05112e60efc0c05d98ed.jpg

That's brilliant.  I'll probably be upholstering mine myself, I often wonder how they get the fabric tight on the foam when it's a concave area, like the seat area above.  Maybe it's spray glued or something?  Or is it just sewed that way?

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