spacesailor Posted June 7, 2021 Share Posted June 7, 2021 F10, I popped the bowl on an outboard !, AND the float-needle fell into the sea. two hours at the oars and my arms were bludi sore. YES !, just a smidgen of sea-water in the bowl, but no chance of using the motor without that tiny bit of equipment. Just a spare now, as No spares for two-stroke outboards. spacesailor 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmccarthy Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Similar experience Spacey. Miles out to sea off Townsville, dropped the spark plug spanner into the sea. Had to hammer some cooling fins off the outboard to get a shifter onto the plug to clean it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFguy Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Not so easy to take float bowl off a J230. Jabiru didnt leave enough clearance for the carb behind the engine. They should have made the engine mount 5mm longer. As a result you need to remove both distributor caps (screws), and two hose clamps and rotate the carb 90 deg to get the float bowl off... FFS. I would LOVE a glass / clear float bowl for my jabiru bing carb I'd be prepared to spend a significant amount of money to get one / make one. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 easy done on a Rotax 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFguy Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 yes because the engine is damn fussy on carb balance and the carb floats have been crap quality. otherwise mechanically yes, very accessible. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 14 minutes ago, RFguy said: yes because the engine is damn fussy on carb balance and the carb floats have been crap quality. otherwise mechanically yes, very accessible. Ah but with my new throttle mod...no more need for carb balances..well rarely..it will just be for a check...the sinking float saga welll i think thats a thing of the past now 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFguy Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 sinking float saga is well and truly alive on engines purchased in the last couple of years I am afraid to say! I like your mod, Mark. As long as people have their choke and idle points set.. as you know choke doesn't work without suck. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Its easy to do because you are not controlling the carbs with flexible bowden cables...both carbs are locked together...the throttle levers on both sides are not symetrical either the distance of the pivots are a half a hole out when using this. Its all done of course in the design but this is also a trap..both carbs are not synced properly even from the factory There is a slight difference due to the offset. We compensate for that with this solid bar sysem 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFguy Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 cool. yeah, Brumby has similar solid bar setup. Interesting the sync is not that great from the factory Not wanting to reduce 3rd party sales of aftermarket rotax ignition modules, I'll be recommending people put a 5mm air gap between their original rotax module stacks.. I am surprised that the Germans trusted the Italians with electronics. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RossK Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 The float issue is still around, ours were done in March. Engine was new in mid 2018 But it did only take 10 minutes tops to do both carbs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marshallarts Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 (edited) Quote Despite my Jabiru company related engine troubles, I will be sticking with the airframe. Just saw this from a while back... RFguy, I'm sure you are aware that there is at least one J230 around powered by a Rotax 914. There's actually one for sale at the moment. So maybe that's an option if the Jab engine saga gets all too hard. Edited June 8, 2021 by marshallarts correction Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Communications Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 1 hour ago, RossK said: The float issue is still around, ours were done in March. Engine was new in mid 2018 But it did only take 10 minutes tops to do both carbs. The yanks have been using some blue coloured epoxy made ones..weem to be good so far but about the same price as the rotax ones I think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaba-who Posted June 10, 2021 Share Posted June 10, 2021 On 08/06/2021 at 12:46 PM, RFguy said: Not so easy to take float bowl off a J230. Jabiru didnt leave enough clearance for the carb behind the engine. They should have made the engine mount 5mm longer. As a result you need to remove both distributor caps (screws), and two hose clamps and rotate the carb 90 deg to get the float bowl off... FFS. I would LOVE a glass / clear float bowl for my jabiru bing carb I'd be prepared to spend a significant amount of money to get one / make one. Interesting. Mine is easy. Has adequate clearance to do it without tools or trouble. But my mates is same as yours. He just can’t get it off without ( I think) dropping the whole carby off the engine. I’ve often wondered if one of us has it done wrong. (His of course!!😆😆) wondered if the rubber engine mounts could be compressed up just a bit more or less and give just a few mm forward movement of the engine. Can’t remember which way would make a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFguy Posted June 10, 2021 Share Posted June 10, 2021 (edited) mmmm ! My carb coupling hose (carb - plenum) is long enough there is no room to push the carb back. Maybe that hose could be shorter. Ill look at it at next opportunity My inlet manifold - plenum pipes - they have O rings and rubber gasket compound, are not super tight fit- apparently never are. wonder how much is leaking around. EGTs are similar so probably not much. some have suggested put a jackunder the front of the engine and compress the top mounts but I couldnt get more than a mm that way. i think I'd need to put a bit of 4b2 under the rear of the tail to stop that tipping back. Edited June 10, 2021 by RFguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgwilson Posted June 10, 2021 Share Posted June 10, 2021 It sounds like there was not any consideration given to carb access or removal when the jabiru engine mount was designed. As mentioned earlier i can remove the bowl without even having to take the cowl off, just the plate that fits around the nose leg and exhaust pipe. Shame really as the carb is in a great position from the perspective of fuel overflow and possible ignition source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RFguy Posted June 10, 2021 Share Posted June 10, 2021 (edited) I don't think I have " the plate that fits around the nose leg and exhaust pipe." Is that a heatshield you put in ? a couple of large washers on the engine mounts, possibly different bolts, and the carb clearance would be OK (3mm required) . Edited June 10, 2021 by RFguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Koreelah Posted June 10, 2021 Share Posted June 10, 2021 42 minutes ago, Jaba-who said: Interesting. Mine is easy. Has adequate clearance to do it without tools or trouble… I removed mine yesterday, using flat screwdriver blade to move the clip. Easy to get to on the four cylinder engine. Glad I did, because it had some fine, dark sediment in it. Never found anything in the bowl during the decade I burned AvGas. Now that I’m using Shell 98, I’ll make a habit of regularly checking inside the bowl, plus running it dry to shut down. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgwilson Posted June 10, 2021 Share Posted June 10, 2021 Different aircraft of course and I built it and I also wanted to ensure that there were as few areas for the engine bay air to escape except through the bottom via the suction created by the wide lip on the cowl bottom. Jabiru produced a lower cowl lip kit for some models back around 2010/11 which was a glass shaped lip that you epoxied on to the exhaust area of the lower cowl to assist with cooling by generating suction. See the plate I remove in the photo below. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaba-who Posted June 10, 2021 Share Posted June 10, 2021 4 hours ago, RFguy said: mmmm ! My carb coupling hose (carb - plenum) is long enough there is no room to push the carb back. Maybe that hose could be shorter. Ill look at it at next opportunity My inlet manifold - plenum pipes - they have O rings and rubber gasket compound, are not super tight fit- apparently never are. wonder how much is leaking around. EGTs are similar so probably not much. some have suggested put a jackunder the front of the engine and compress the top mounts but I couldnt get more than a mm that way. i think I'd need to put a bit of 4b2 under the rear of the tail to stop that tipping back. I’m digging through the depths of my memory but could be wrong but I was thinking that once the nuts and bolts are engaged (by the use of the Jack or by a compressing clamp like I have) then it’s just the number of turns of the nut that controls the depth of the rubber compression. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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