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F10,

I popped the bowl on an outboard !,

AND the float-needle fell into the sea.

two hours at the oars and my arms were bludi sore.

YES !, just a smidgen of sea-water in the bowl, but no chance of using the motor without that tiny bit of equipment.

Just a spare now, as No spares for two-stroke outboards.

spacesailor

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Whether it's allowable or not, surely the purpose of recreational aviation is to get AWAY from the kids???

I always believed that a baby could be carried as a 3rd person as long as it was on the lap and does not interfere with controls. If I also believed that I can certainly understand the pilot having th

Well I guess he could say the child is a newborn and his wife went in to expedited labour when the engine failed, was born on descent to the forced landing cleaned up and dressed before touchdown.

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Similar experience Spacey. Miles out to sea off Townsville, dropped the spark plug spanner into the sea. Had to hammer some cooling fins off the outboard to get a shifter onto the plug to clean it.

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Not so easy to take float bowl off a J230.

Jabiru didnt leave enough clearance for the carb behind the engine. They should have made the engine mount 5mm longer.

 

As a result you need to remove both distributor caps (screws), and two hose  clamps and rotate the carb 90 deg to get the float bowl off... FFS.

 

I would LOVE a glass / clear float bowl for my jabiru bing carb

I'd be prepared to spend a significant amount of money to get one / make one. 

 

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yes because the engine is damn fussy on carb balance and the carb floats have been crap quality. otherwise mechanically yes, very accessible.

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14 minutes ago, RFguy said:

yes because the engine is damn fussy on carb balance and the carb floats have been crap quality. otherwise mechanically yes, very accessible.

Ah but with my new throttle mod...no more need for carb balances..well rarely..it will just be for a check...the sinking float saga welll i think thats a thing of the past now

 

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sinking float saga is well and truly alive on engines purchased in the last couple of years I am afraid to say!

 

I like your mod, Mark. As long as people have their choke and idle points set.. as you know choke doesn't work without suck.

 

 

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Its easy to do because you are not controlling the carbs with flexible bowden cables...both carbs are locked together...the throttle levers on both sides are not symetrical either the distance of the pivots are a half a hole out when using this. Its all done of course in the design  but this is also a trap..both carbs are not synced properly even from the factory There is a slight difference due to the offset. We compensate for that with this solid bar sysem

 

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cool. yeah, Brumby has similar solid bar setup.

Interesting the sync is not that great from the factory

 

Not wanting to reduce 3rd party sales of aftermarket rotax ignition modules, I'll be recommending people put a 5mm air gap between their original rotax module stacks.. I am surprised that the Germans trusted the Italians with electronics. 

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The float issue is still around, ours were done in March. Engine was new in mid 2018

But it did only take 10 minutes tops to do both carbs. 

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Despite my Jabiru company related engine troubles, I will be sticking with the airframe. 

Just saw this from a while back...  RFguy, I'm sure you are aware that there is at least one J230 around powered by a Rotax 914.  There's actually one for sale at the moment.  So maybe that's an option if the Jab engine saga gets all too hard.

Edited by marshallarts
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1 hour ago, RossK said:

The float issue is still around, ours were done in March. Engine was new in mid 2018

But it did only take 10 minutes tops to do both carbs. 

The yanks have been using some blue coloured epoxy made ones..weem to be good so far but about the same price as the rotax ones I think

 

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On 08/06/2021 at 12:46 PM, RFguy said:

Not so easy to take float bowl off a J230.

Jabiru didnt leave enough clearance for the carb behind the engine. They should have made the engine mount 5mm longer.

 

As a result you need to remove both distributor caps (screws), and two hose  clamps and rotate the carb 90 deg to get the float bowl off... FFS.

 

I would LOVE a glass / clear float bowl for my jabiru bing carb

I'd be prepared to spend a significant amount of money to get one / make one. 

 

Interesting. Mine is easy. Has adequate clearance to do it without tools or trouble. But my mates is same as yours. 
He just can’t get it off without ( I think) dropping the whole carby off the engine. 
 

I’ve  often wondered if one of us has it done wrong. (His of course!!😆😆) wondered if the rubber engine mounts could be compressed up just a bit more or less and give just a few mm forward movement of the engine. Can’t remember which way would make a difference. 

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mmmm !

 

My carb coupling hose (carb - plenum) is long enough there is no room to push the carb back.  Maybe that hose could be shorter. Ill look at it at next opportunity

My inlet manifold - plenum pipes - they have O rings and rubber gasket compound, are not super tight fit- apparently never are. wonder how much is leaking around. EGTs are similar so probably not much.

 

some have suggested put a jackunder the front of the engine and compress the top mounts but I couldnt get more than a mm that way. i think I'd need to put a bit of 4b2 under the rear of the tail to stop that tipping back.

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It sounds like there was not any consideration given to carb access or removal when the jabiru engine mount was designed. As mentioned earlier i can remove the bowl without even having to take the cowl off, just the plate that fits around the nose leg and exhaust pipe. Shame really as the carb is in a great position from the perspective of fuel overflow and possible ignition source.

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I don't think I have " the plate that fits around the nose leg and exhaust pipe."

Is that a heatshield you put in ?

 

a couple of large washers on the engine mounts, possibly different bolts, and the carb clearance would be OK (3mm required) .

 

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42 minutes ago, Jaba-who said:

Interesting. Mine is easy. Has adequate clearance to do it without tools or trouble…

I removed mine yesterday, using flat screwdriver blade to move the clip. Easy to get to on the four cylinder engine.

Glad I did, because it had some fine, dark sediment in it.
Never found anything in the bowl during the decade I burned AvGas.

Now that I’m using Shell 98, I’ll make a habit of regularly checking inside the bowl, plus running it dry to shut down.

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Different aircraft of course and I built it and I also wanted to ensure that there were as few areas for the engine bay air to escape except through the bottom via the suction created by the wide lip on the cowl bottom. Jabiru produced a lower cowl lip kit for some models back around 2010/11 which was a glass shaped lip that you epoxied on to the exhaust area of the lower cowl to assist with cooling by generating suction. See the plate I remove in the photo below.

 

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4 hours ago, RFguy said:

mmmm !

 

My carb coupling hose (carb - plenum) is long enough there is no room to push the carb back.  Maybe that hose could be shorter. Ill look at it at next opportunity

My inlet manifold - plenum pipes - they have O rings and rubber gasket compound, are not super tight fit- apparently never are. wonder how much is leaking around. EGTs are similar so probably not much.

 

some have suggested put a jackunder the front of the engine and compress the top mounts but I couldnt get more than a mm that way. i think I'd need to put a bit of 4b2 under the rear of the tail to stop that tipping back.

I’m digging through the depths of my memory but could be wrong but I was thinking that once the nuts and bolts are engaged (by the use of the Jack or by a compressing clamp like I have) then it’s just the number of turns of the nut that controls the depth of the rubber compression. 
 

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