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Kyle Communications

My Savannah S model rebuild Blog

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I have the similar issue with polycarbonate sheets and found that sticky tape worked well on all but the most sun damaged areas but it responded well to a little heat and sticky tape

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1 hour ago, rgmwa said:

Have you tried a heat gun or hair dryer?

Or just leaving it the sun may do the trick.

 

I had this bluish plastic on stainless steel some years ago. This also had been on for years. The plastic pulled off one small section at a time ...until I left it in the sun for a couple of hours. It came off easily after that.

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I tried that as well Hank.....I was going nuts with it. The cleaning vinegar and leaving it wet with the vinegar on rags over the top softened it to the point where it could either be taken off with high pressure sprayer or scraped off with a single sided razor blade...generally called a Gem blade

 

Some bits of residual glue have been left on the sheets and I found elbow grease and acetone did the trick to get the rest off. Never again will I be doing that. I will just buy new sheets although I dodnt expect to be doing it again too soon anyway. I have another one to build after this so I think that will just about do me I think

 

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1 hour ago, fly_tornado said:

I have the similar issue with polycarbonate sheets and found that sticky tape worked well on all but the most sun damaged areas but it responded well to a little heat and sticky tape

With the heat gun the white plastic would come off although really slowly as it would break but half the time the plastic would lift but leave the glue behind

 

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That's an identical problem to trying to remove vinyl vehicle decals, once they've been in place for a couple of years. Doesn't matter whether it's "high grade vinyl", as in advertising decals, or just pinstripes and decorative vinyl strips - it all seems to dissolve into the pores of the paintwork or the metal and nothing will remove them cleanly.

I've tried heat guns, paint thinners, petrol, and citrus-oil-based "adhesive removers", all with varying degrees of success - but the only really successful technique is the good old razor-blade scraper.

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I'd be dodging getting involved with Ali sheet that's got the plastic bonded to it, because of age. What a horrendous job to have to do. Grease with solvent mixed applied and left for a fair time might work. The grease stops the solvent evaporating, so it's got longer to act. 

     Good luck with that overbored engine. I don't actually like the original pressed up crank. in a 912. and you know they break at the front already. When you weld a crank you do awful things to it, unless you heat treat it afterwards and I just wouldn't go there myself.. Funny how hard it is to get a good motor after all these years. Not really funny but you know what I mean.  OUR dollar isn't helping at the moment. Nev

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Hi Nev

Already done all that crap work on the sheets...never again ...next time I will just buy new sheet although I doubt there will be a next time. After Mabel is done then I have the Rans 21 to build...I reckon that will pull me up.

The big bore brings it out to 1484cc the pistons go to 88mm from 84mm. The cylinders are all new CNC from billet with more cooling fins and then also nikasil as well. The new pistons are forged. The crank welding doesnt have to be done with this upgrade I am doing but Rotax gurus and motorbike guys tell me I should as the HP goes up its good insurance but as you say it must be done correctly. My engine guru has a mate who is like the god of crank welding and has been doing it for almost a lifetime..mainly on bike engines as apparently this pressed crank is common on bikes but he is the man who does the best job in OZ....he wants to retire but all his customers wont let him 🙂

 

 

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These guys are the ones that hot them up...racing bikes etc....maybe they get older engines....I know that the guy who does the welding wants to pull the pin but the crowd of enthusiasts who use him want him to keep going

 

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Hi Mark, are you getting the big bore edgeperformance kit for the Rotax or something different and what sort of Hp gain you looking at ?

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Hi Guy

 

No mine is coming from the guy who originally designed them all. Ronnie Smith at Mississippi Light aircraft in the USA. Edge used to buy the bits from him but copied them and do their own now. The cylinders are all CNC machined with better fins on them also they are nikasil bores. The pistons are forged I believe. Mine will be just the big bore step up to 1484 cc 

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Thanks Mark and I've looked at the Edge performance site and youtube videos and looks good quality gear but hadn't heard of Ronnie smith but sounds good, will look forward to seeing the motor progress build 🙂

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Well I have been working on Mabel a bit of late finally. Preparing the big sheets for alodining..cleaning off the rest of all that crap and glue...what  a job..NEVER again will I buy sheets that have been sitting around for a few years. Had to cut out a few holes and also the tank areas before sending them away. Phil Pluis found a local mob that have big tanks and do alodining for alu before powdercoating down at Beenleigh. These guys looked after the very thin sheets and were not rough so all of my large sheets and Danny Leach's sheets and also most of the larger sheets and other gear for George's new kit I took down yesterday to get done. We will pick them all up next thursday..lucky I have a huge van I can fit all this into. Some pics attached of all the alu rolled and flat sheets out at the powdercoaters ready for them to start.

 

I have the complete back end of the fuselage all done and ready to rivet together...just got to wait for 4 longerons to come back from alodining. The front of the aircraft is now totally apart ready for cleaning and paint stripping although it looks like I might have to make a new front crossmember where the control column is as there is a small tear in it and also a few deep bends after it was crashed. She has certainly turned into a bigger job that I thought originally because I wasnt happy with the previous build quality..another pic attached showing where they just riveted the parts together without removing the stickers...just slamming them in between critical joints and no black stuff either as usual. RAA certainly can not say this is not a new build as it really is being reduced to every single separate part and being put all back together.. No issue with a 51% build seeing its a 100% strip and a 100% build.

 

So working on getting the fuselage mostly together is the main aim at the moment. Both Danny and I will build complete new cabin frames from chrome molly as they could be suspect. They dont look it but no chances at all being taken here so we need to make a jig to do it and get it all tig welded. Another interesting thing is the tangs for the wing mounts at the front on the savs seems to be non magnetic so are stainless welded into the chrome molly. Not sure I like that idea so our tangs will be chrome molly

 

Once the big sheets are back I could get one wing totally back together but I still have the other wing to get apart and clean and alodine all the parts. I already have a spare spar which I have fixed from another wreck and it is ready so at least dont have to do that on the second wing. Left to do is the tail plane and elevator. I need to paint strip them and get them apart and most likely will alodine them..check the main rear rivets as they wear out there but will replace everything there as well. The vertical fin also needs to be paint stripped and again alodined

 

Hopefully things will progress at a faster rate now most of all the drama of getting things totally apart and either fixed or replaced. My S21 will be due here I think sometime after July or August this year. I hope to have Mabel flying around then or a bit after as this has to be done BEFORE I even start on building the Mistress. I still have to sell off the Girlfriend this year as well to help fund all this but dont want to leave myself nothing to fly but will see how it goes.

 

Going flying tomorrow..probably early its been stinking hot up here these past few weeks. Had a nice local flight last weekend too but summer here you really need to be up around 7am and back on the ground before 10am otherwise its rough as guts

 

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

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Big job, Mark...very

I found the sheets so much easier to store and handle when rolled...though also gave myself a nasty gash when one of them partly unrolled during handling.

 

I used rivnuts instead of rivets when closing off under the fuel tanks, as I know you did. When it comes to rubber replacement, I'm thinking I will cut in the inspection hatches that are part of the newer kits, rather than unscrewing the whole lot. I see you using a diamond(?) wheel there. Is that a better option than a nibbler?

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Hi Bob

 

I found the diamond wheel really easy to cut long straight lines. The knibblers are harder to control. The dremel needs to have a fair bit of power though but in general it was very easy. Yes I think inspection plates would be a good idea. I hadnt thought of that. But I dont want to cut the panels again although I could and alodine the bare edge but after my original leak issue in the girlfriend I am pretty sure it wont happen again. I will most likely make 4 of the fittings I made for the way I fixed my current ones. I think I posted some pics of it. I love having a lathe it makes life so much easier when you have any issues

 

 

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Just another couple of pics to show how NOT to do your build quality...this is the side brackets left and right side that anchor the main crossmember that ties the front cabin together and your main control stick. Great riveting skills and care taken to make sure this important strength area is done correctly  GRRRRRR. 

 

 

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On ‎1‎/‎26‎/‎2019 at 10:46 PM, Kyle Communications said:

Well I have been working on Mabel a bit of late finally. Preparing the big sheets for alodining..cleaning off the rest of all that crap and glue...what  a job..NEVER again will I buy sheets that have been sitting around for a few years. Had to cut out a few holes and also the tank areas before sending them away. Phil Pluis found a local mob that have big tanks and do alodining for alu before powdercoating down at Beenleigh. These guys looked after the very thin sheets and were not rough so all of my large sheets and Danny Leach's sheets and also most of the larger sheets and other gear for George's new kit I took down yesterday to get done. We will pick them all up next thursday..lucky I have a huge van I can fit all this into. Some pics attached of all the alu rolled and flat sheets out at the powdercoaters ready for them to start.

 

...

 

Going flying tomorrow..probably early its been stinking hot up here these past few weeks. Had a nice local flight last weekend too but summer here you really need to be up around 7am and back on the ground before 10am otherwise its rough as guts

 

Mark

 

 

 

 

 

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That rebuild is proving to be a h-u-g-e job. I am sure the end result will be completely worth all the effort.

 

PS: Mark did you see the "what is the best radio" question on this thread?

 

Edited by eightyknots

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Hi Hank

 

Yes it has turned into a much bigger job but when it is done it will be a excellent stronger aircraft.

 

Yes I have been adding my 2 cents worth in that radio thread

 

Looks like I am going to get a

MGL 8.5inch Discovery Lite Eifis

SP-6 compass module

RDAC XF engine interface

V16 radio (which interfaces into the Discovery for controls)

Razor head for the V16 as a external radio control setup

 

This is be for the S21 not Mabel......well unless I win a fair amount of money on Lotto 🙂

 

 

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With this crap weather around all this week I decided to stay around home and get a heap pf stuff done. Been working on the new Rotax test rig..its turning out really niceley except the servo I got to run it doesnt have enough grunt to maintain the rage against the magnets in the generator let alone once I get some load on the generator

 

So working on Mabel again. The fuselage frame is almost ready to add the skins now. We have made another mod to the fuselage strength which adds basically no weight but adds heaps of strength to the rear section. The curved frame corners are very very weak and it literally relies on the skins for the strength. I know its all supposed to be calculated etc but remember these are for 470kg in europe and most are used for that its only in a few other countries they are allowed to 600kg with the strut mod. Danny made up a small jig to form and drill the strips we are using and you will see in the photos that it strengthens the very weak corners of the frame corners. Both our wrecked aircraft have had the corners ripped across this section if the rear twists. These strips make the corners have some torsional strength now. I havent drilled and riveted the other ends yet as I will attach the side skins and a bottom or top skin then this will align all the frames correctly once clecoed then when I drill and rivet the strips this will lock the frame corners in the angle they need to be

 

Down at the tail end where the stab bolts on this is another area that really needs to be strengthened. Two plates are added to the main attachment bracket to strengthen this up as well.

 

Another thing I found with this poor construction on this aircraft and its pretty important....The flaperon connection pivot was not done how it should have been. The alu bracket that has the steel pivot plate attached to it is supposed to have "flat top rivets" in other words countersunk rivets put in from the alu side. This alu bracket was countersunk on the wrong side so they used normal dome rivets into the steel pivot plate. Well there is a reason for the countersunk rivets and you can see why in the pictures. The head of one of the dome rivets was being ground off by the flaperon lever arm and this was offsetting the arm to the point where it has started to gouge out the alu bracket. You can see this in the pictures and also on the flaperon control arm which is steel and not alu. I am going to plate another piece of 25 thou over the alu bracket and then countersink this plate and use the proper rivets. This should fix the issue and should make everything parallel again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Kyle Communications
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More work this week on Mabel. Put more of the strengthening straps in but really need to put some skins on even if just temporary so I can drill the other end of the straps. This way the corner frames are in their correct locked positions when final riveting.

 

I must say I am really happy with the skins I made and all the holes that were drilled ..every single one lines up perfectly so far on the bottom skin and one of the lower curved skins. I am hoping the rest are the same. I have spent a little bit of time and paid a lot of attention on the frame sides and the corner frames angles where they contact the skin so that the frame edges and tabs are not protruding and looks at this stage they should not have a lot of the "pillowing" you see on a lot of builds...hopefully

 

So tomorrow night and of course my 3 days off I hope to have all the strips done and the skins all on

 

Mark

 

 

 

 

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