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I have the similar issue with polycarbonate sheets and found that sticky tape worked well on all but the most sun damaged areas but it responded well to a little heat and sticky tape

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1 hour ago, rgmwa said:

Have you tried a heat gun or hair dryer?

Or just leaving it the sun may do the trick.

 

I had this bluish plastic on stainless steel some years ago. This also had been on for years. The plastic pulled off one small section at a time ...until I left it in the sun for a couple of hours. It came off easily after that.

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I tried that as well Hank.....I was going nuts with it. The cleaning vinegar and leaving it wet with the vinegar on rags over the top softened it to the point where it could either be taken off with high pressure sprayer or scraped off with a single sided razor blade...generally called a Gem blade

 

Some bits of residual glue have been left on the sheets and I found elbow grease and acetone did the trick to get the rest off. Never again will I be doing that. I will just buy new sheets although I dodnt expect to be doing it again too soon anyway. I have another one to build after this so I think that will just about do me I think

 

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1 hour ago, fly_tornado said:

I have the similar issue with polycarbonate sheets and found that sticky tape worked well on all but the most sun damaged areas but it responded well to a little heat and sticky tape

With the heat gun the white plastic would come off although really slowly as it would break but half the time the plastic would lift but leave the glue behind

 

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That's an identical problem to trying to remove vinyl vehicle decals, once they've been in place for a couple of years. Doesn't matter whether it's "high grade vinyl", as in advertising decals, or just pinstripes and decorative vinyl strips - it all seems to dissolve into the pores of the paintwork or the metal and nothing will remove them cleanly.

I've tried heat guns, paint thinners, petrol, and citrus-oil-based "adhesive removers", all with varying degrees of success - but the only really successful technique is the good old razor-blade scraper.

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I'd be dodging getting involved with Ali sheet that's got the plastic bonded to it, because of age. What a horrendous job to have to do. Grease with solvent mixed applied and left for a fair time might work. The grease stops the solvent evaporating, so it's got longer to act. 

     Good luck with that overbored engine. I don't actually like the original pressed up crank. in a 912. and you know they break at the front already. When you weld a crank you do awful things to it, unless you heat treat it afterwards and I just wouldn't go there myself.. Funny how hard it is to get a good motor after all these years. Not really funny but you know what I mean.  OUR dollar isn't helping at the moment. Nev

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Hi Nev

Already done all that crap work on the sheets...never again ...next time I will just buy new sheet although I doubt there will be a next time. After Mabel is done then I have the Rans 21 to build...I reckon that will pull me up.

The big bore brings it out to 1484cc the pistons go to 88mm from 84mm. The cylinders are all new CNC from billet with more cooling fins and then also nikasil as well. The new pistons are forged. The crank welding doesnt have to be done with this upgrade I am doing but Rotax gurus and motorbike guys tell me I should as the HP goes up its good insurance but as you say it must be done correctly. My engine guru has a mate who is like the god of crank welding and has been doing it for almost a lifetime..mainly on bike engines as apparently this pressed crank is common on bikes but he is the man who does the best job in OZ....he wants to retire but all his customers wont let him 🙂

 

 

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These guys are the ones that hot them up...racing bikes etc....maybe they get older engines....I know that the guy who does the welding wants to pull the pin but the crowd of enthusiasts who use him want him to keep going

 

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Hi Mark, are you getting the big bore edgeperformance kit for the Rotax or something different and what sort of Hp gain you looking at ?

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Hi Guy

 

No mine is coming from the guy who originally designed them all. Ronnie Smith at Mississippi Light aircraft in the USA. Edge used to buy the bits from him but copied them and do their own now. The cylinders are all CNC machined with better fins on them also they are nikasil bores. The pistons are forged I believe. Mine will be just the big bore step up to 1484 cc 

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Thanks Mark and I've looked at the Edge performance site and youtube videos and looks good quality gear but hadn't heard of Ronnie smith but sounds good, will look forward to seeing the motor progress build 🙂

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