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M61A1

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M61A1 last won the day on January 18

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About M61A1

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  • Aircraft
    Fixed wing
  • Location
    Darling Downs
  • Country
    Australia

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  1. I made a snug fitting bar that goes in the outlet. ( a solid piece of alloy bar with a 90° bend in it for good access) As the fitting gets hot you will see the Loctite change colour, I really don't think that 80° is adequate (otherwise they would leak when the engine is at operating temp), but care must be exercised. As Downunder said, apply a bit of pressure while heating and you will feel it start to move. Care is required because they are soft to start with and very easy to distort. If you should wreck one, they are one of the few reasonably priced Rotax parts, around $16 from memory. Yes, I wrecked one, because 80° isn't enough.
  2. That's what they are designed to do. That is how they lock. Generally it is accepted that a screw is "in safety" when at LEAST 2 threads protrude through the nut. If I was supervising/ or inspecting a job where the tradie had screws that didn't go all the way through, he would be replacing all the short ones with the correct length fastener before anything got signed. I agree that it is desirable to use one system or the other. I currently work on metric aircraft, and as far as rivets go, most of them are just standard rivet sizes but labelled in metric, but many are still imperial part numbers. it's damn annoying having a hybrid system. All the screws though are metric.
  3. Did you mean "LEAD" or "LED", as in Light Emitting Diode?
  4. Unless he specifically ordered the nutplates with a closed bottom, (and the one pictured isn't) any length screw can be used until it runs out of thread. The screw in the pic is not shanked out and should screw right through. BTW, grip lengths are not measured in thousandths of an inch, but the far more masculine 1/16 or 1/8 This thread is starting to sound like the "How many forum posters does it take to change a lightbulb" thread.
  5. The photo in his above post clearly shows they are not too long. Dzus are ok or bigger stuff, but for panels Turnlock fasteners are the go. Nothing wrong with nutplates and screws either if access isn't required every day, it sure beats having to get a spanner in a blind confined space. They probably just need some lube and run on and off a couple of times.
  6. Everything looks normal.....are you sure you aren't just a bit limp wristed?
  7. A -6 should fall through a -10 nutplate. -10s are about 0.190" , a _8 is about 0.161" and a -6 about 0.130". It sounds like an nutplate quality issue, if it starts easily then gets really tight at the end. Many of the ones I use at work with close tolerance screws require grease or anti-seize when new or they are excessively tight . By excessive I mean run on torque far exceeds the listed maximum torque for the fastener.
  8. That one is always a good reminder for me. I was taking the Drifter with pax and fully loaded up to a Gympie weekend fly-in a few years ago. It was perfect weather on the Downs and at Gympie, but I ran into poor weather just past Jimna and diverted to Kilcoy instead. My decision was confirmed with another pilot also on the ground at Kilcoy, not willing to risk pressing on to Gympie. When I checked my track on Google Earth, my turn around point was about 6 NM south of where the Dragon was found.
  9. Could it be that the longer you do something, the higher the likelihood that mistakes will eventually be made or things go wrong?
  10. I was going to post the exact opposite......never used one in an aircraft, they aren't good enough for my bikes. Replaced my last one with a SSB AGM battery which has way more power for the same size and have had no more problems.
  11. Some of the 3D printed stuff I saw in the trade marquees at Avalon were amazing. Some stuff like this, almost organic in design. https://www.zeal3dprinting.com.au/services/3d-printing-for-defence-and-aerospace/
  12. I wouldn’t use it for locking wheel retaining nuts, if you are talking about a single centre nut attaching the wheel to the axle because if the bearings seize up or grab for any reason the rotation of the wheel may undo the nut, but I would use it to attach a wheel to a hub with studs if I thought they might vibrate loose.
  13. Like Nev says, you wouldn’t use lockwire in that situation. That’s a job for a split pin, self locking nut or both. A lot of flight control bolts have both nylon and a split pin. F111 ones had a ball locking device that was operated when to pushed an Allen key in to drive it and a split pin which both prevented the nut from turning and the ball loch being actuated.
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