John M
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Posts posted by John M
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We have had a load of waffle about Jab engines and the thread drift is going on all the time. Here is your chance to say what you "know" about Jab engines.
I have a 2200 Jab in a Corby Starlet, it runs well although I got poor mogas and busted a piston with detonation. Avgas is the go for me. I would like to try a different carburettor from the Bing, although the Bing runs fairly well.
Don't bother talking about the engine if you don't run one or regularly fly one.
Forgot to mention in that last post...
The starter Bendix cover developed a crack at 50 hours. It was cast, as much of the Gen 4 is now. Jabiru replaced it with a CNC cut cover. Then the Bendix itself failed to engage properly and they replaced that on warranty.
John M
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We have had a load of waffle about Jab engines and the thread drift is going on all the time. Here is your chance to say what you "know" about Jab engines.
I have a 2200 Jab in a Corby Starlet, it runs well although I got poor mogas and busted a piston with detonation. Avgas is the go for me. I would like to try a different carburettor from the Bing, although the Bing runs fairly well.
Don't bother talking about the engine if you don't run one or regularly fly one.
I'm on my 3rd Jab 2200. Jab gen 2, 3 and now 4.
On the gen 2 it sucked an exhaust valve at 1145 hours as did the engine on my friends Gen 2 at the same time. Replaced it with the Gen 3 and flew that for about 1500 hours.
The engine got "morning sickness" meaning on first start up it ran rough until it warmed up.
Also should note that I have always thought that the top end was the weakness of the engine due to the inadequate lubrication of the valve train. I had to reline the valve guides 3 times on two engines. The gen 4 has better lubrication through the push rods.
I am running mostly mogas on this engine. I use 91 AKI ARCO gas with ethanol. Had to install a 5 gallon seat tank for this since the resin in my glass tanks can handle ethanol. The 5 gallons handles all my local flights since i get 1.5 hours from the tank. The only noticeable difference is that the EGTs run about 50-70 F higher. After several tankfuls the borescope shows that the lead accumulation is flaking off my piston.
The cause was a stuck hyd lifter which was replaced and it had worn the lobe on the cam. Sold it to a pilot in Canada for $1K with the knowledge of the cam wear. The engine ran fine, but I opted for the new Gen 4 and I'm glad I did. This engine will take me to the end of my flying days since I am 82.
What difference I have noticed with the Gen 4? Never have to add oil between 25 hour oil changes. Since the piston and the jug is the same material tolerances can be held tighter.
I will need to come up with a different valve remover since the one I built only works with the removable head.
Just spoke with a pilot friend who has just had the engine on his Bonanza overhauled for what it cost me to buy my new Gen 4.
So when Jab says 1000 hours TBO for the top end you should take that to heart.
I have 180 hours on my gen 4 and the only issue I had was lower oil pressure with higher RPM. Cleaned the pressure relief valve and all is OK now.
Should mention that this engine is smoother and can idle down to 600 RPM after warm.
John M
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Happy with my 230 now I have the mixture and cht problem sorted. A pilot up the valley has a 160 apart from servicing no problems and he has around 600 trouble free hrs all leak downs in the 70s plus
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Mystery Marvel Oil...is oil and is added to avgas all the time.
John M
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Hi folks
Just a quickie!
Im thinking about storing 44 gallon drums of Avgas at my home strip. In theory I can buy new drums directly from a supplier (Shell), but anecdotally they will only sell a minimum of four together (apparently to keep Avgas out of the hands of racing enthusiasts).
An alternative will be to fill up some pre-used drums at the local bowser. I know a bloke who runs a high end vehicle service centre/workshop. He gets his oil by the drum and so constantly has a turnover of virtually new single use-oil drums. So I can get near new drums for free and potentially just fill them at the Avgas bowser.
The question is whether the drums need to be meticulously cleaned before filling with Avgas? If it was an older petrol or diesel engine in a road vehicle, I'd have no hesitation in having a spot of clean oil mixed in the fuel -might even make them run a bit smoother. But what about a Lycoming burning Avgas? Of course I will flush the drums with a few litres of Avgas before filling, but aren't certain I'd get everything. Whats the worst a bit of clean oil could do if mixed into my Avgas?
Cheers
Alan
People add Marvel Mystery Oil to avgas all the time with actual benefits. So THAT oil seems OK. It is in small portions.
John M
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We have had a load of waffle about Jab engines and the thread drift is going on all the time. Here is your chance to say what you "know" about Jab engines.
I have a 2200 Jab in a Corby Starlet, it runs well although I got poor mogas and busted a piston with detonation. Avgas is the go for me. I would like to try a different carburettor from the Bing, although the Bing runs fairly well.
Don't bother talking about the engine if you don't run one or regularly fly one.
I am flying my 3rd Jab 2200. I have over 3,000 hours with the engine.
The TBO for the top is 1,000 hours. On my 1st Jab I tried to see how far over I could go. At 1195 hours the valve seat on number 4 dislodged causing the piston to hit the valve with same damage.
I sent the engine in to Jab in Tennessee and Ben rebuilt the damaged area. The newer Jabs now have a recess in the top of the piston to prevent the stuck valve from being hit by the piston.
On #2 engine it started running rough at about 900 hours. I found that the hyd lifter on #1 was sticking. The bottom of the lifter was mushroomed which made it hard to remove. The cam lobe was worn by this event, but I replaced the lifter and the engine ran well. I sold it to someone in Canada with the caveat that the cam lobe was worn.
I bought a new Jab 2200 Gen 4 to take me to the end of my flying days. I'm 82, so time is short.
This engine has a completely redesigned top end which was the weak point on earlier engines. Head and jug are one unit and all cast aluminum so tolerances can be held tighter since we don't have to contend with different expansion from Aluminum head to steel cylinder.
The lubrication of the rocker box parts is much better with oil up through the push rods instead of from an outside pipe.
Roller lifters make it possible for extremely low idle...500 RPM when warm. The idle is very smooth.
Leak down test at 95 hours was 72/80 lowest and 75/80 highest. This was done on the cold engine so a hot leak down would be much better.
My aircraft is an Avid Flyer MK4 with fiberglass tanks that can't take ethanol laced motor fuel. This has always bothered me because I know that running avgas just loads the piston tops and other parts with lead accumulation.
Do I had a brain fart. I bought a marine plastic 6 gallon tank which sits on my right seat. I know...fuel in the cockpit? I flew a Piper Cub for many hours with the tank suspended above my legs and my header tank is behind my seat.
Jabiru requires octane of 95 RON. I use 91 AKI ARCO gas. AKI is RON-MON/2 so to get 92 octane AKI RON has to be 95.
I have taken a before borescope shot of the #1 cylinder showing the lead accumulation on the top of the piston and the head. After flying off several tanks of mogas I will take an after shot to see the difference.
In summary: I like the simplicity and low weight of the Jab 2200. My friends all have Rotax 912s and while the engine is robust, the ancillary parts...gearbox, sprague clutch, water pipes, etc are not so robust.
The Jab is turning a 66" Whirlwind 2 blade prop which allows me to climb 1000-1200 FPM and cruise at 100+ MPH on 2.8 GPH.
The fuel tank I mentioned allows me to fly about 80 miles round trip on $1.00 less per gallon than avgas.
For more info on the Jab engine there is the JabCamit forum.'
Fly safe.
John M
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I am new to the site.
Personals: over 8,000 hours, Commercial, flying Avid Flyer MK 4 powered by the Jabiru Gen 4 2200.
live here in the colonies in Southern California.
Fly to Idaho back country every July to enjoy the pristine beauty and the many back country strips.
John M
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Hi I have just joined, and will hopefully be flying soon, recently emigrated to NZ so need to get the plane through the the process here.
My plane is a Bushbaby Explorer with a 6 cylinder Jabiru
Cheers
Sanna
New Zealand has been on my bucket list for many years. Been to Fiji, Cook Islands, Tahiti, etc, but regret we never made it to Kiwiland.
I fly an Avid Flyer MK4 with a Jabiru 2200 Gen 4 engine. Good for the Idaho back country strips.
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I've just completed a 50hr maintenance programme on my Jab 160.I noticed a very small amount of burnt oil around the bottom head bolt cap, not sure where this oil has come from ... any thoughts out there?
By the way, leak down and comp test are all good, which I'm thinking it suggest there is no head leak... The engine is running fine and no noticable loss on power.
Cheers
Jack
Found the problem ... it is the rocker box breather vent hole.It is misting a very small amount of oil out through the vent... oil when runs down through the water drain hole which goes though the head ... this allows the oil to make it's way to the bottom head bolt.I spoke with the guys from Jab at Temora who confirmed the source of the oil.
All good and no issue ....
Cheers
Jack
Skypics234 here:Found the problem ... it is the rocker box breather vent hole.It is misting a very small amount of oil out through the vent... oil when runs down through the water drain hole which goes though the head ... this allows the oil to make it's way to the bottom head bolt.I spoke with the guys from Jab at Temora who confirmed the source of the oil.
All good and no issue ....
Cheers
Jack
I had a problem with #1 head on my 2200. It was leaking around the head/jug seal. Looks like the head was not properly sequenced at my 1195 hour overhaul. It had burned the aluminum at the seal so I had to fork out almost $700 for a new head. The new head that was sent was for an older early hyd lifter engine when there were issues with the pressure in the crankcase not allowing the oil to exit the rocker boxes down through the push rod tubes. This caused the oil in the rocker box to coke up and eventually affect the valve guides and valve stems.
However, my engine (3239) has the deeper oil pan and so this problem was eliminated.
So I had oil leaking from the new #1 head and had removed that head 5 times. Each time I checked the rocker rod and push rod tube O rings and all were good.
Finally we noticed that besides the oil holes in the rocker box that lubricate the valve guides and stems, there was a hole up in the middle between those oil holes and we found this to be an air vent hole leading to the outside of the engine between the fins. This hole was Jabiru's fix for the coking oil issue. My friend and I just drilled tiny holes in the top of our rocker box covers and had no problems.
I had to place some high temp RTV in between the fines where the hole exited. My oil problem is fixed.
Since then a friend found a way to place the head on his lathe and he resurfaced the small 3 thousands
divot in the head seal so I have a usable head that will fit on #1 or #4 if anyone should need on and don't want to pay close to $700 for a head. This one does NOT have the air vent hole.
John M
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My engine s/n 3237 has just past 1100 hours.I have read so much in recent times about the Jabiru 2200 engine's problems and I think that I can safely say that it is very hard to seperate fact from fiction.On this point I don't think that I'm on my own.Anyway just an idea but how about we seperate the fact from the fiction and use this thread to report on the factual problems the end users of this power plant have experienced.
That is anything ranging from a minor problem to a major problem resulting in a complete engine failure.
The reporting should be brief at first just enough to establish a trend and then a more in depth examination of the issue could be embarked upon.
For example state the problem and the resultant effect and only if 100% known the cause of the problem, no guessing please.
We don't at this point need engine hours, place of incident or the time of the year.
These matters to start with are irrelevant to the initial categorisation of the various problems.
It is my view that by approaching the issue this way with the reporting of absolute fact not theory or guess work the end result will benefit all end users of these motors.
Also there should not be self denial, everyone who has had a genuine mechanical problem with these motors please report it here in this thread.
No Jabiru knockers please as this type of activity achieves nothing for anyone.
It is my view that by doing this if there are genuine major problems with the subject motor then they need to be identified and rectified, not just be the Saturday night topic of bellyachers and whingers.
It does work look what Tony Hayes has achieved with the Thruster Group.
Regards to all,
Rick-p;)
Relied exhaust guides at 960 hours and replaced exhaust valves.
#4 cylinder is a bit soft but it's running great.
John M
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Fraser:I am looking at 2 of the same model aircraft. I am interested in engine reliabilty over performance. One has a Jabiru 2200 engine 5 years old with approximately 500 hours. The other is a 582 Rotax 2 years old with approximately 100 hours.Both are in the same price range and condition.My concerns are:
Reported valve and head problems on the Jabiru engine once over 500 hours. I have read some other posts on this forum where people have had these issues.
Engine reliabilty of a 2 stroke engine. It is newer however.
I guess my question is would a 2 stroke Rotax 582 with only 100 hours be more reliable and trouble free than a Jabiru 2200 with 500 hours.
Just after some feedback as I am a bit confused. There is a certain faction that believe the 2 strokes are less reliable and another faction that have experienced problems with Jabiru Engines over a certain age/hours.
Would appreciate feedback on pros and cons of each engine.
I fly Avid Flyer Aircraft and flew my model B for 2400 hours with a grey head 582 and then changed to Jabirus for another 1980 hours.
First a summary then the pros and cons.
I bought my Avid in 1990 and have had 5 different engines in it since that time. It came with a Rotax 532 with single ignition and rope start. I got rid of that one quickly and installed a used Rotax 582. Flew it for several hours and had it overhauled a couple times. It had a C box and no starter. I hand proped it.
Then I pulled that one and installed a new 582 with an Ebox with built in starter. I ran 100% synthetic oil which I mixed by hand in the fuel. I ran it 100:1 ratio and got 500-600 hours between overhauls. I believe this is due to the fact that I fly a lot of hours and because of the synthetic oil. The 2 strokes only had minor issues.
The pros in the 582: They are one of the cheapest power plants. You can swing a longer prop due to the gear box.
The cons of the 582: All Rotax parts are very expensive. They start out light and simple in concept, but after you install the heavy muffler, two carbs which have to be syncronized, short TBO times (recommended at 300 hours) and oil container for the injection oil. water with anti freeze, rotary valve oil supply, water hoses and radiators you now have a much heavier and more complex engine. Oh...and the chain saw sound.
How about the Jabiru 2200s:
These are very simple engines with one constant depression carb (somewhat altitude compensating) and light weight. Almost the same as the fully equiped 582 at about 130-135 pounds. The 1st one I had was one of the early hyd lifter conversions.
At 200 hours all the valve guides were worn and replaced on warranty. At that time the valves should have also been replaced, but weren't so at 585 hours it sucked an exhaust valve and I dead sticked back to the airport with no damage. The #3 piston was busted, the rod was bent so I took to my dealer in Fresno (no longer in business) and he rebuilt the engine . After I got it back it ran for about a minute and threw a rod.
He was embarrased to say the least and I was pissed. He placated me by selling me a much newer engine (at half price) with all the rocker box and valve issues addressed. It also had different hyd lifters, cam and heads.
I have put 1030 hours on this last engine. At 980 hours I saw some evidence of valve guide leakage on the rear exhaust valves. I was getting ready for a back country trip so I relined the exhaust valve guides and replaced the exhaust valves.
On the trip to the Nevada back country I made a bad landing and totaled my plane. One week later I bought a newer Avid with a Rotax 582 grey head with 280 hours on the last overhaul. I flew it for a short wihile listening to the engine turning 6000 RPM with the 3 blade prop only turning 2000 RPM and burning 7 GPH.
I sold the engine, prop, spinner and motor mount and have installed my Jabiru 2200 from the wreck. The leak down performed on a cold engine after not being run for over a month came in at 75/80 for the lowest.
Took the new Avid on a maiden flight today and glad to have the quiet simplicity of a direct drive 4 stroke.
Jabiru Pros: Simple, light weight, parts are cheaper..many off-the-shelf, much quieter, under 3 GPH fuel burn with mixture control, easier installation, longer TBOs (1000 hours top...2000hours bottom)
Jabiru Cons: Some engines are not being installed properly and are over heating and failing sooner than needed. Some range of serial numbers of the early hydraulic lifter engines had early failures. Only one reputable dealer in the US. Currently a airworthy notice pending in Austrailia which was poorly drafted and is being contested.
Hope this helps with the decision.
John M
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Mark:I have a J230. The temperature was about -14C today when I went to fly it, and I encountered some problems on which I'd appreciate feedback/suggestions.The Tanis heater had been plugged in overnight. The plane started withoutproblem.
However, during mag check I had unusually large drops in both mags, though they
would then recover to a normal drop.
Most alarming was that when the throttle was advanced rapidly during run-up, the
engine would stall. This problem did not occur when the throttle was advanced
slowly.
The problem persisted even when the oil temp reached 57C. We decided not
to fly.
Thoughts?
Why do you advance the throttle rapidly?
I have been taught ever since I got my private in 1963 that slowly advancing the throttle was much easier on the engine stress due to the gyroscopic and inertia affects of the prop.
What was the oil temp when you did the mag checks?
Excessive mag drops can be caused by:
1. Fowled plugs
2. Incorrect spark gap
3. Incorrect air/fuel mixture
4. Incorrect or bad fuel
What do the EGTs show during mag checks?
JohnM
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Phil:What for John?Just interested as mine has similar hours, but going strong.Phil
My first Jab 2200 was an early Hyd Lifter type that was more a boat anchor than a reliable aircraft engine. At 200 hours the valve guides were all worn and replaced on warranty. This was caused by the fact that the crankcase pressure would not allow the oil in the rocker box to flow back down into the crancase and so it just cooked into carbon.
My west coast distributor replaced the valve guides but he should have replaced the valves also since badly worn guides allow the valves to hit the seat slightly off center causing stress on the valve just beneath the head.
So at 585 hours the number 2 exhaust valve head broke free and distroyed the piston and bent the rod. I dead sticked back to my home field.
The engine was rebuilt by the same dealer and after 60 seconds of run up it threw a rod up through the case and into the starter motor.
Of course, I was pissed, but the dealer made me an offer I couldn't reuse on a brand new on with all the needed upgrades ( different cam, crank case, lifters, fly wheel pins, etc) so I was placated.
My current Jab 2200 (s/n 3237 has 890 hours on it with absolutely no minor or major issues except for hard starting in cold weather which was corrected when I moved the battery from behind my seat to up front on the fire wall. However, I did notice some carbon blackening near the exhaust valve springs on the rear two pistons. I took the head off and found the guides to be just out of the widest spec.
My friend has the equipment to bore out the existing guides 30 thousands and insert guide sleeves. I ordered 4 new exhaust valves at $50 each. I used Aeroshell greese with molydnum disulfide at 20% on the stems and rocker bushings.
The engine has 5 hours on it since this was done and is running strong. This should easily get me to the recommended 1000 hour top and beyond.
The compression is good.
JohnM
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Rick:My aircraft is powered by a Jab 2200 with mechanical tappets.My engine reporting instrument is a Flydat:- oil pressure and temperature, etc.Problem:- oil presure reading on reduced power constantly reading low or the same after a long climb out.
Temperature is fine, well within the correct range so not a viscosity problem.
Using Aeroshell 100 plus.
Pressure at reduced power fluctuates between .9 bar and 1.8 and whilst on full power increases to 2.2 bar to 2.8 bar.
The other day it dropped to .4 on finals and .2 on touch down.
I placed one s/s washer under the pressure relief valve spring which initially improved the situation then went back to previous readings or worse.
No dirt was found under the seat on the relief valve.
All other readings on Flydat seem to be ok.
I was told by Jabiru that i should have an oil cooler fitted but I don't believe that this is the problem as temp's are perfect and the plane is factory built overseas and the Jab engine installed there.
It has the deep sump and the airflow over the sump and engine is optimum.
It's an extremley well designed and engineered installation and the designers were no slouches.
Apart from instrument or pressure probe problems have any of you guys out there got any suggestions.
Your knowledge or experiences will be greatly appreciated.
My real concern is that if it is a genuine low pressure problem then the rear bearings will suffer.
Does anyone know the correct operating pressure for the Jab 2200 as the book says one thing and the factory tells me something else.
I will be this weekend fitting a VDO oil pressure guage to confirm whether or not it is the Flydat that is the problem, the oil pressure switch seems to be operating correctly.
Please your suggestions guys.:;)5:
Thanks,
rick-p
In regards to needing and engine oil cooler as related to oil pressure.
Having a cooler and associated hosing will increase oil pressure due to the the resistance of the afore mentioned.
Having low blood pressure is a good thing...right. But, having vessels occluded with plaque raises the blood pressure. The resistance of the cooler and hoses will increase back pressure that can be seen by the oil pressure sensor.
This begs the question: Is it better to have more oil flow at less pressure or less flow at more pressure.
I think you will find that and oil cooler system WILL indeed RAISE the oil pressure.
By the way...
I have my oil pressure sensor moved from the normal mounted position to the gallery hole just below that placement. This both eliminates much of the pulsation from the oil pump and let me know the oil pressure in the engine galleries.
Here in Southern California where temps get into the tripple Farenheit levels an oil cooler is manditory.
John M
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RicK;I have read so much in recent times about the Jabiru 2200 engine's problems and I think that I can safely say that it is very hard to seperate fact from fiction.On this point I don't think that I'm on my own.Anyway just an idea but how about we seperate the fact from the fiction and use this thread to report on the factual problems the end users of this power plant have experienced.
That is anything ranging from a minor problem to a major problem resulting in a complete engine failure.
The reporting should be brief at first just enough to establish a trend and then a more in depth examination of the issue could be embarked upon.
For example state the problem and the resultant effect and only if 100% known the cause of the problem, no guessing please.
We don't at this point need engine hours, place of incident or the time of the year.
These matters to start with are irrelevant to the initial categorisation of the various problems.
It is my view that by approaching the issue this way with the reporting of absolute fact not theory or guess work the end result will benefit all end users of these motors.
Also there should not be self denial, everyone who has had a genuine mechanical problem with these motors please report it here in this thread.
No Jabiru knockers please as this type of activity achieves nothing for anyone.
It is my view that by doing this if there are genuine major problems with the subject motor then they need to be identified and rectified, not just be the Saturday night topic of bellyachers and whingers.
It does work look what Tony Hayes has achieved with the Thruster Group.
Regards to all,
Rick-p;)
808 hours on s/n 3237 Jabiru 2200 with no complaints. See my detailed responses to other on this engine.
John M
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Henk:My Jabiru 2200 engine has just over 600 hrs. The manual says TBO is 1000 hrs (or 2000 hrs for full o/h). I'd really like to know if the 1000 hrs is realistic. So my question is how many hours are people really getting out of their engines?It depends on what serial number you have and how well it is maintained.
My 1st Jabiru was a disaster. It was the early conversion to hyd lifters. Valve guide worn at 200 hourws and replaced on warranty. Sucked a valve at 587 hours and destroyed a piston and bent the rod.
The west coast repair guy sent is back after repair and it threw a rod after 30 seconds after start up. He adnmityted he screwed up on the repair and sold me a much newer and updated engine at below cost. That engine now has 808 hours on it without any issues. I have pulles all heads at 800 hours and the guides, valves and pistons all look great. I believe I will easily make it to the 1,000 top TBO.
s/n 3237
John M
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I have flown with both in my Avid Flyer B STOL. I had 2400 hours with the 582 and now have 808 hours with my 2nd Jab 2200. The 1st Jab was an abomination. It was the early hyd lifter change over and had worn valves at 200 hours and it sucked an exhaust valve at 587 hours causing major engine damege. The person who repairs them on the west coast did not do a great job and the engine threw a rod 30 seconds after I started it up. He made me a deal I couldn't refuse on a new, updated engine with all the earlier problems corrected. That engine has served well for 808 hours. I have pulled the heads and looked at all the valves and guides and they are doing quite well leading me to believe I will easily make it to the 1,000 TBO for top.I am looking at 2 of the same model aircraft. I am interested in engine reliabilty over performance. One has a Jabiru 2200 engine 5 years old with approximately 500 hours. The other is a 582 Rotax 2 years old with approximately 100 hours.Both are in the same price range and condition.My concerns are:
Reported valve and head problems on the Jabiru engine once over 500 hours. I have read some other posts on this forum where people have had these issues.
Engine reliabilty of a 2 stroke engine. It is newer however.
I guess my question is would a 2 stroke Rotax 582 with only 100 hours be more reliable and trouble free than a Jabiru 2200 with 500 hours.
Just after some feedback as I am a bit confused. There is a certain faction that believe the 2 strokes are less reliable and another faction that have experienced problems with Jabiru Engines over a certain age/hours.
Would appreciate feedback on pros and cons of each engine.
The 582 is a good engine if maintained well. Keep in mind that the engine compartment gets very crowded when you add an engine that requires water cooling and a gear box. The Jabiru is a clean, uncrowded set up.
The 582 set up I removed and the Jabiru 2200 I installed both weighed the same.
Of course the Jabiru sounds like an aircraft engine and not a leaf blower if that is important to you.
The 2200 is a LOT more economical to own and run. The fuel consumption and cost of parts on Rotax engines are more than Jabiru engines.
I swung a 70" WARP Drive prop on the 582 and a 64" on the Jabiru. Both engine climbed about the same on the Avid.
I have a total of 4,030 hours on the Avid and have gone through 5 engines. 1) 532, 2) 582's and 2) Jabiru's.
Hope this helps in your decision.
John M
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Sure. Tennessee propellers will sell you any size you need. I use a 64 x 36 on my Avid Flyer and it has served very well. John MAre there any propellors available for a Jabiru 2200 that have a smaller diameter than the standard Jab prop?Old Man Emu
Rotax 912uls versus Jabiru 80hp
in Engines and Props
Posted
Jenny
I have over 5,000 hours behind Jabiru 2200 engines.
This most recent Jab is the Generation 4. On this version Jab improved the top end which allows closer tolerances so that I don't have to add any oil between oil changes at 30 hours.
The engine is much simpler design that fits easily into my Avid MK4.
The earlier engines had issues with valves, valve guides and separated valve heads.
As mentioned the top end has been completely redesigned including better lubrication of the rocker box.
That said, the Rotax engines do have some advantages which can also be a disadvantage.
The gear box allows longer props, but the gear box is one of the problem parts. The engine sound is different since it typically is running at twice the room of the Jabs.
The engine is about 20 pounds heavier which eats up some of that extra hp.
Yes, parts are much more expensive.
Two carbs have to be synced properly.
I mix gas types with no issues and run my 2200 on ARCO premium 91 AKI. The higher compression of the Rotax may not allow this octane level. Although I have noticed that some do run mogas.
The Rotax engine is well built and runs a long time between overhauls. It's the gear box and Sprauge clutch that need more frequent servicing.
I fly a lot and already have 160 hours on my new Jab gen 4 engine.
The only issues I have had is Starter Bendix unit. Jabiru changed from the reliable Honda Bendix to a brand the only lasts for 50 hours in my experience.
I am in contact with Jab in encouraging a change back to the Honda brand.
My engine burns 2.8 gph at above 7500 MSL when I lean it out.
I am counting on this engine to take me to the day when due to age I'll have to hang up my headset for good. I'm 83 so I still have a few years to enjoy flight.