Byron

Thanks, I can't believe this overflow bottle was used. Does it come this way from the factory?

I expected it to fill up with coolant when I turned the motor off. Should I add some room temp coolant next time?

Before going to the effort if pulling things apart. How are the compressions? Turning by hand and also do a leak down. How old is the fuel? Had the same problem with a client who had fuel stored in hangar for a month or 2. Would start and run with choke on only, push choke in and engine would stop! Fresh fuel all fixed!

Here is a video I took today. This engine has made this hissing sound out of cylinder #1 ever since I bought it. Would a leaking head gasket cause this?

Overflow bottle had pressurized I guess and blew a hole out the bottom.

Oil leak cylinder #1

Small leak cylinder #2

Cream and water residue on oil cap and in reservoir

Thanks for the suggestions and advice...great stuff. I have a mechanic I know coming tuesday to give it all a look. He has a license to work on small aircraft engines but is currently working on commercial aircraft. I will print out all the comments and show him, I think they are some good ones.

Thanks for the suggestions and advice...great stuff. I have a mechanic I know coming tuesday to give it all a look. He has a license to work on small aircraft engines but is currently working on commercial aircraft. I will print out all the comments and show him, I think they are some good ones.

Check if you radiator is pressurising rapidly before removing heads. If there is water in a cylinder the condition of the plugs will show it. It all gets pretty clean. Nev

Just a thought. have the new carbie diaphragms been fitted correctly. there are small lugs on the diaphragms which must be mated with corresponding detents in the piston and carbie body. If they are not lined up the engine will run very rough. Also check that the piston is free to travel up and down smoothly, if the top of the chamber is not tightened correctly it can jamb the piston. Greg.

I will digest the other received comments too. Good stuff

Well here is an update: I looked in the oil reservoir this morning and found my worst fear. White cream on the bottom of the lid. Looks like a blown head gasket:crying:

I'm licking my wounds and looking for a head gasket set. If anyone has a link to purchase one let me know.

Don't know how this happened. You may send your condolences

Needing full choke for the engine to run without roughness or power loss is a new problem since the installation of the new parts. That is what is so strange. I think a fuel pressure test and good balancing is a start. I just thought maybe it could be a simple fix since it was running great before. Definitely seems to be a fuel starvation problem.

Anymore thoughts or suggestions?

Screenshot of the installation manual regarding routing the carb vent line

Can you send me a link to the required length of the carb float vent line. I just looked through the installation manual and it just discussed diameter of tubing and avoid placing the end of the tube in a slip stream.

Requirements on the drainage piping:

NOTICE With closed or blocked leakage piping, fuel could end ƽWARNUNG

up on exhaust system. RISK OF FIRE!

- The lines have to be routed such that in case of damage the surplus

fuel is drained off suitably.

- Route the lines without kinks and avoid tight bends.

- Route the lines with a continuous decline.

- The lines have to be protected against any kind of blockage e.g. by for-

mation of ice.

venting lines Float chamber venting lines (1): Float chamber

Connecting nip- ple for leakage line

NOTICE The float chamber venting lines (1) have to be routed

into a ram-air and vacuum free zone or into the airbox, according to the requirements and release of BRP-Powertrain.

See chapter “air intake system“. These lines must not be routed into the slipstream or down the firewall.

Pressure differences between intake pressure and pressure in the carburetor chambers may lead to engine malfunction due to incorrect fuel supply.

Connecting nipple (3) for leakage line:

-Outside dia. 6 mm (1/4‘‘‘)

-Slip on length Max. 17 mm (11/16‘‘)

and what do you mean by you will have to purge the oil system the only time it needs to purged is when the engine is first installed .

http://www.flyrotax.com/portaldata/5/dokus/d05199.pdf

SERVICE INSTRUCTION

PURGING OF LUBRICATION SYSTEM

FOR ROTAX® ENGINE TYPE 912 i, 912 AND 914 (SERIES) SI-912 i-004 SI-912-018R1 SI-914-020R1

1.5) Compliance

These inspections have to be performed

- before first engine run,

- after re-installation (e.g. after overhaul),

- after lubrication system opened or drained during maintenance work (e.g. removal of oil pump, oil cooler or suction line).

have you rebalanced the carbies with a vacuum gauge if they are out of balance it will run rough and what do you mean by you will have to purge the oil system the only time it needs to purged is when the engine is first installed . and have you checked for proper fuel flow through the new fuel lines and filter ie disconnect at the carby and measure the actual fuel flow

Possible that the distribution spider eg the splitter to the carbies and return line has been incorrectly fitted. The return line /pressure gauge fitting has a restrictor in the fitting. If installed in a carby supply line one carb is starved of fuel. An easy error to make if not knownMick W

If it's sucking air downstream of the carbs, that leans the mixture, applying choke enriches the mixture.Seems likely to me, but I'm not a mechanic

Yes, I'm aware of the throttle position during start up. I watched Phil Lockwood speak about Rotax 9 series on YouTube.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMXYWDxjccg

Something happened replacing the parts I mentioned. The motor was running great before the 5 year rubber replacement. Only 200 hours on the motor but its 10 years old.

I'll check in the morning, but that wouldn't affect it needing full choke to run smooth and not loose rpm. Right?

I fogot to mention...opened up the carburators and changed the gaskets on the float chambers, chokes, and diaphrams and fuel pump.

see video:

Hello everyone,

I recently purchased a Drifter with 200 original hours on the motor. Owner didn't do complete much heavy maintenance but changed oil, plugs, filter, ect.

Last month I installed a new rotax oil filter, new fuel filter custom fuel lines. Oil Changed, coolant changed, and "choke" cable system replaced. Minimum throttle idle speed is too low. I need to purge the air from the oil lines I recently became aware of.

Parts were ordered from the aircraft manufacturer. The fuel lines were made from experienced aviation tubing manufacturer who is very familiar with rotax engines.

Pertaining to the video....The first signal I'm showing in the video is 2000rpm. The second signal I'm showing is the mixture control. I Decrease "choke" or enricher lever and have power loss. First time today I heard a power oscillation at 3000 rpm.

Motor doesn't sound aweful, but isn't quite right. I want this engine to purr like a kitten. I think it can.

Comments, analysis, tips, suggestions are welcome. THAT'S WHY I POSTING THIS. Maybe it can help someone else in the future.

Fire away

Thaaat's not what you want to hear. Are you referring to the ausflight drifters you've seen?

I know most of you guys are ausflight owners, but maybe I might get lucky

Aircraft: Leza/Lockwood Super Drifter

Problem: Manual I have doesn't address the installation of the bell crank inside the main wings

This is the left wing I am showing pictures of....

Could it be possible the previous owner when they recanvased the wing got the top and bottom mixed up when the sails were off and put both new wing sails upside down? This is my concern.

The reason that caused my concern is because the control cables for the bell crank rub against the support bar(as you can see in the last picture) I have read all of the assembly manual many times that came with it used.

I can't confirm my suspicion because my manual doesn't ANYWHERE address the bell crank that are inside the main wings. It addresses all the other ones though.:score 009:Any advice besides contacting Lockwood because I have done that and they haven't responded. That is why I'm here.

I'm about ready to flex my Drifter wings. Just bought a 10 year old super drifter! I will be taking the maiden flight in the next month. I'm putting new sails on her from a company in California. I overlaid my idea of a Chilean flag in paint to give me an idea of how my design will look. They are in transit now. Hope to get them next week. I'm also going to change out some fuel lines and fuel pump. I posted his info if anyone needs a sail maker. He communicates excellent and wants to make exactly what you want. I feel fortunate I found his company.

The Ultralight Store

4535 W. Whittier Ave.

Hemet, CA 92545

951-925-7780 or [email protected]

Hey Everyone. I'm new to this message board and a brand new drifter owner! I just purchased a 10-12 year old super drifter w/ 912. Just wanted to see if anyone had photos to share of their instrument panel or any custom configurations. I'm deciding where to mount my comtronics dual-com intercom and possibly a radio and GPS. Would like to see what you all have on your drifters! (I saw the thread back in 2006 requesting cockpit photos)