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danny_galaga last won the day on January 29

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About danny_galaga

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  • Birthday 01/01/1970

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  1. Not worried at all this time around. I think the throttle arm incident got the stress out of my system. Quite enjoyed fixing this
  2. Installing the firewall. In section 23 I mentioned you need to leave the wooden fairing spacer in place. This is why! Without it, the firewall pieces are not the right shape and won't fit. Which I didn't realise so I experimented by trimming off about 2mm from where the firewall pieces meet the top of the engine mount thinking it might shift into place. It still didn't make sense so it was time to email Eddie the Engineer at the factory. He then told me the fairing spacer should still be in place. Oh and you can trim the edges a bit but whatever you do don't trim off the part of the fairing that sits on the engine mount as it helps keep the fairing in shape when the spacer is removed! DOH! I came up with a solution to fix my screwup however and checked with Eddie to see if it was ok. Pretty simple, I just made a shim from some aluminium angle and pop riveted it place. I used some epoxy putty behind to hold it in place while I drilled the holes for the rivets. And from the front when it was fixed in place I used epoxy resin in all the seams to finish it off. Stronger than the original design I reckon When riveting the firewall pieces in place, I found one or two of the holes I drilled didn't hit the inner lip, or was very close to the edge. So instead of the little washers supplied, I used some of that ali angle to make some 'mudguard' washers. Talking of washers, some of them were really hard to get in place. See my special tool Note in the pic of the attached firewall pieces I filled in the edges with some Sika fire retardant silicon, from Bunnings Aerospace. Will it help? Who knows. But I figure it will at least help take some of the stress off the rivets. Last pic is of the finished flame retardant foil/fibreglass. I used water based contact adhesive purely because it is rated for 160 C while the regular stuff is rated for 130 C. Again, will it make a difference when the fuel fire is 1600 C or whatever? Who knows. But 1600 C on one side of the fire retardant material will be much lower on the other side, so that could buy me a few more seconds! I have decided to try hard not to have an engine fire
  3. I had a hell of a time setting up the throttle arms. This was part of my tantrum in the previous post! But basically you can avoid a lot of time and stress by being really careful fitting the armrest plates. I didn't make them conform closely enough to the curve and they sat a millimetre or two off the armrest. The problem there is that the throttle arms have a bend in them and there isn't much leeway for error. Where the arm bends, it rubs on the plate, causing way too much friction. I ended up drilling out the rivets (TWICE on the left hand arm!) . I filled the holes up with epoxy putty and redrilled. I took care to push the plates as hard as I could. But what I also did is redrilled with a smaller drill bit. Through the hole in the plate but as low as I could. Therefore when I drill that hole the correct size, the hole is maybe a millimetre lower. That helped pull the plate just a smidge lower again. Pic shows how far the plate was off when I first attached it.
  4. Welcome aboard! Ive been to about ten states but NC is still my favourite!
  5. danny_galaga

    Why I don't fly now

    Damn dude i guess youll have to fly to fly as a ‘passenger ‘ with friends o you can at least stay hands on
  6. Hehe. I think sometimes it would be easier to work from plans! But im way too lazy for that! Anyway, I’ve stopped pouting and working on it again. It is a lovely plane to fly so I must keep thinking of the end result
  7. I have not been enjoying this build. but I need to elaborate. A programmer friend once told me that I would be an excellent beta tester because I always seem to find that combination of inputs that seizes up the computer. I am also a creative person. Often if i make something, it comes out of nowhere. The last major thing I built was this arcade machine: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144934.msg1506839.html#msg1506839 this gives you an idea of the skill set I have. Not a master craftsman by any means, but able to come up with novel ideas and solutions. In my mind then this is at one end of the creative spectrum. Another sort of creative pursuit are things like LEGO or Mechano. In the case of making one of those models the goal is clear, and there are explicit instructions to get you there. This is at the other end of the spectrum. So, sometimes I like the OCD hypnosis of something like LEGO (I have a kit ready to start on actually) and sometimes I want the immersion of creating something from scratch, like my arcade machine with glass control panel and touch controls. With the Bushcat kit I was really expecting a giant Mechano set. But it’s not that. How can it be? Mechano have made millions and millions of sets and had maybe a century to perfect their system. My Bushcat kit however is number 231. And a hell of a lot more complicated than a Mechano set! This ‘model’ is a continuous work in progress. There are typos in the instructions, missing or wrong sized bolts. There are sections where you really have to use your initiative and work out what it is they are trying to tell you. so then, this is not a scratch built arcade machine, but nor is it a Mechano set. But Mechano is what I was expecting. Every step perfectly defined. Every part present and correct. So I am struggling because of my false expectations. So each time there is a problem, I really start to get down about it. Maybe because then I’m not sure what the right thing to do is. With one of my scratch built projects, the right thing to do is whatever comes to mind. The solution is correct so long as I am happy with that solution. However, I have been told this kit is one of the easier ones and the manual one of the most complete. I think if you are a prospective buyer, be clear about what you expect. For most people, it will be all you expected it to be. For those rare few Beta Testers like me, you may struggle.
  8. They are 850 x 6 airtrac on the garage question. First thing we did was decant the largest crate with the large fibreglass parts. That crate ended up as my partners sons doghouse:) we we really wanted to hang on to the other crates because they looked useful. Soon after we stacked up the three you can see behind the plane we hired a trailer and dumped them. Just took up too much room. You may have more room than us of course and it would have been better to kee everything in the big crate as it did get tiring shuffling the pieces around all the time!
  9. As good a point as any to post an updated picture. The battery was a dam tight fit and im not looking forward to having to replace that one day! Putting on the undercarriage and wheels was pretty straight forward. Be aware that some of the items come pre assembled even though the manual has assembly instructions. Things like the disk brakes definitely need tightening up and Loctite used. the seat backs had a hole too small for the clevis pins so I needed to drill them out
  10. Oh I have a cunning plan that will be lightweight and useful (hopefully!) and doesn’t involve the exhaust i will need to assemble more of my plane before I can start prototyping the design
  11. Not sure but vaguely remember one of those extra oil cooler setups as an option. My thinking is that when you want to be warm you don’t need extra cooling for the engine!
  12. Interestingly enough, these are Matco wheels. But these don’t have sealed bearings
  13. I hadn’t thought of the temperature extremes, although it certainly doesn’t seem like there would be that much temperature ‘stress’ in an ultralight...
  14. What’s with the special greases I’m supposed to use for my Bushcat wheels? Why not just normal bearing grease?