Jump to content

danny_galaga

Members
  • Content Count

    282
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by danny_galaga

  1. danny_galaga

    15. Section 49

    Not worried at all this time around. I think the throttle arm incident got the stress out of my system. Quite enjoyed fixing this 🙂
  2. danny_galaga

    15. Section 49

    Installing the firewall. In section 23 I mentioned you need to leave the wooden fairing spacer in place. This is why! Without it, the firewall pieces are not the right shape and won't fit. Which I didn't realise so I experimented by trimming off about 2mm from where the firewall pieces meet the top of the engine mount thinking it might shift into place. It still didn't make sense so it was time to email Eddie the Engineer at the factory. He then told me the fairing spacer should still be in place. Oh and you can trim the edges a bit but whatever you do don't trim off the part of the fairing that sits on the engine mount as it helps keep the fairing in shape when the spacer is removed! DOH! I came up with a solution to fix my screwup however and checked with Eddie to see if it was ok. Pretty simple, I just made a shim from some aluminium angle and pop riveted it place. I used some epoxy putty behind to hold it in place while I drilled the holes for the rivets. And from the front when it was fixed in place I used epoxy resin in all the seams to finish it off. Stronger than the original design I reckon 🙂 When riveting the firewall pieces in place, I found one or two of the holes I drilled didn't hit the inner lip, or was very close to the edge. So instead of the little washers supplied, I used some of that ali angle to make some 'mudguard' washers. Talking of washers, some of them were really hard to get in place. See my special tool 😄 Note in the pic of the attached firewall pieces I filled in the edges with some Sika fire retardant silicon, from Bunnings Aerospace. Will it help? Who knows. But I figure it will at least help take some of the stress off the rivets. Last pic is of the finished flame retardant foil/fibreglass. I used water based contact adhesive purely because it is rated for 160 C while the regular stuff is rated for 130 C. Again, will it make a difference when the fuel fire is 1600 C or whatever? Who knows. But 1600 C on one side of the fire retardant material will be much lower on the other side, so that could buy me a few more seconds! I have decided to try hard not to have an engine fire 😄
  3. danny_galaga

    1. Without further ado!

    Note: this build is for the taildragger version of the Skyreach Bushcat, so bear in mind some sections may be a little different to the tricycle version. So I won't be posting every time I screw a nut onto a bolt. Mostly I will highlight points of interest, tricks and solutions and general thoughts. Also I am discovering that I am needing 'special' tools sooner than anticipated, so in this first post I will list any special tools/materials and the section of the Bushcat build I first needed them in. That way if anyone else is building a Skyreach Bushcat they can see when they have to spring for them without having to buy them all at once. At the time of writing this, I was up to section 17. I would suggest it won’t take long to get that far. Torque seal - Section 1 Pop rivet gun - Section 2 (not really a special tool as such, but I didn't have one handy so it goes in the list!) Loctite 243 - Section 12 Cable tension gauge - Section 14 0.82 safety wire - Section 14 (choose any unit of measure you like- miles, parsecs, cubits. I myself went for millimeters as that will have the best fit in the hole) modified pointy nosed pliers - Section 17 M6 taps (through and bottom) - Section 25 special wheel bearing grease - Section 29 loctite 572 - Section 53
  4. I have not been enjoying this build. but I need to elaborate. A programmer friend once told me that I would be an excellent beta tester because I always seem to find that combination of inputs that seizes up the computer. I am also a creative person. Often if i make something, it comes out of nowhere. The last major thing I built was this arcade machine: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144934.msg1506839.html#msg1506839 this gives you an idea of the skill set I have. Not a master craftsman by any means, but able to come up with novel ideas and solutions. In my mind then this is at one end of the creative spectrum. Another sort of creative pursuit are things like LEGO or Mechano. In the case of making one of those models the goal is clear, and there are explicit instructions to get you there. This is at the other end of the spectrum. So, sometimes I like the OCD hypnosis of something like LEGO (I have a kit ready to start on actually) and sometimes I want the immersion of creating something from scratch, like my arcade machine with glass control panel and touch controls. With the Bushcat kit I was really expecting a giant Mechano set. But it’s not that. How can it be? Mechano have made millions and millions of sets and had maybe a century to perfect their system. My Bushcat kit however is number 231. And a hell of a lot more complicated than a Mechano set! This ‘model’ is a continuous work in progress. There are typos in the instructions, missing or wrong sized bolts. There are sections where you really have to use your initiative and work out what it is they are trying to tell you. so then, this is not a scratch built arcade machine, but nor is it a Mechano set. But Mechano is what I was expecting. Every step perfectly defined. Every part present and correct. So I am struggling because of my false expectations. So each time there is a problem, I really start to get down about it. Maybe because then I’m not sure what the right thing to do is. With one of my scratch built projects, the right thing to do is whatever comes to mind. The solution is correct so long as I am happy with that solution. However, I have been told this kit is one of the easier ones and the manual one of the most complete. I think if you are a prospective buyer, be clear about what you expect. For most people, it will be all you expected it to be. For those rare few Beta Testers like me, you may struggle.
  5. danny_galaga

    11. Section 23/24

    The fairing is a bit of a struggle to put on. You will need to ‘stretch’ it on. Note here that the bolts that weren’t fastened in section 6 should be removed before fitting the fairing. The manual doesn’t mention this. If you thought it was hard putting the fairing on, wait until you realise you need to take these bolts out and have to take the fairing off again 😄 Note: once i fitted the undercarriage I found that the slot it fits into on the fairing was not even. Hard to know if it was me or it’s not that accurate. I ended up cutting a couple of mm off with a Dremel. Just as well you can’t see both sides at once, eh! Time will tell if the alignment of the fairing will be a problem... NOTE! There is a wooden spacer you use to set the fairing up. I assumed you take it out when you are finished. Not so! You must leave it in because it changes the shape of the fairing and when you get to section 49 where you fit the firewall panels in you will swear black and blue that this panels must be for a different airplane because they wont fit at all! You will also just swear 😄
  6. danny_galaga

    14. Section 44

    I had a hell of a time setting up the throttle arms. This was part of my tantrum in the previous post! But basically you can avoid a lot of time and stress by being really careful fitting the armrest plates. I didn't make them conform closely enough to the curve and they sat a millimetre or two off the armrest. The problem there is that the throttle arms have a bend in them and there isn't much leeway for error. Where the arm bends, it rubs on the plate, causing way too much friction. I ended up drilling out the rivets (TWICE on the left hand arm!) . I filled the holes up with epoxy putty and redrilled. I took care to push the plates as hard as I could. But what I also did is redrilled with a smaller drill bit. Through the hole in the plate but as low as I could. Therefore when I drill that hole the correct size, the hole is maybe a millimetre lower. That helped pull the plate just a smidge lower again. Pic shows how far the plate was off when I first attached it.
  7. danny_galaga

    Hello from North Carolina

    Welcome aboard! Ive been to about ten states but NC is still my favourite!
  8. danny_galaga

    Why I don't fly now

    Damn dude 😞 i guess youll have to fly to fly as a ‘passenger ‘ with friends o you can at least stay hands on
  9. danny_galaga

    13. Thoughts so far, or great expectations

    Hehe. I think sometimes it would be easier to work from plans! But im way too lazy for that! Anyway, I’ve stopped pouting and working on it again. It is a lovely plane to fly so I must keep thinking of the end result
  10. danny_galaga

    13. Thoughts so far, or great expectations

    Thanks for your kind words, helps put it in context 🙂
  11. danny_galaga

    12. Section 43

    As good a point as any to post an updated picture. The battery was a dam tight fit and im not looking forward to having to replace that one day! Putting on the undercarriage and wheels was pretty straight forward. Be aware that some of the items come pre assembled even though the manual has assembly instructions. Things like the disk brakes definitely need tightening up and Loctite used. the seat backs had a hole too small for the clevis pins so I needed to drill them out
  12. danny_galaga

    12. Section 43

    They are 850 x 6 airtrac on the garage question. First thing we did was decant the largest crate with the large fibreglass parts. That crate ended up as my partners sons doghouse:) we we really wanted to hang on to the other crates because they looked useful. Soon after we stacked up the three you can see behind the plane we hired a trailer and dumped them. Just took up too much room. You may have more room than us of course and it would have been better to kee everything in the big crate as it did get tiring shuffling the pieces around all the time!
  13. I’m brainstorming ideas for a cabin heater in my bushcat I am building. What sort of regulations cover things like this?
  14. Oh I have a cunning plan that will be lightweight and useful (hopefully!) and doesn’t involve the exhaust i will need to assemble more of my plane before I can start prototyping the design
  15. Not sure but vaguely remember one of those extra oil cooler setups as an option. My thinking is that when you want to be warm you don’t need extra cooling for the engine!
  16. What’s with the special greases I’m supposed to use for my Bushcat wheels? Why not just normal bearing grease?
  17. Interestingly enough, these are Matco wheels. But these don’t have sealed bearings 😞
  18. I hadn’t thought of the temperature extremes, although it certainly doesn’t seem like there would be that much temperature ‘stress’ in an ultralight...
  19. danny_galaga

    Bushcat LSA by SkyReach

    Many apologies, I had no idea that skyreach were selling kits with everything! I just bought the regular kit.
  20. danny_galaga

    Bushcat LSA by SkyReach

    Like onetrack just said- the kit doesn’t come with an engine propeller or instruments. Those parts came from GAP, who also supplied you the kit. From GAP you bought 1 x Bushcat kit, 1 x engine and 1 x instrument panel which I assume Errol made. I’ve seen some of his panels and they are great.
  21. danny_galaga

    Bushcat LSA by SkyReach

    Ok I don’t know why evil is muddying up the waters but here is the breakdown: ~$90,000 gets you a turnkey Bushcat ready to fly away, it even has the engine. You go to the dealer and fly it home. Because it is not a kit. ~$45,000 gets you a kit (which is what Dave was asking about). The kit gets you an un-assembled aircraft. In Australia what we generally mean by a kit is an un-assembled product. In this case, it consists of five crates containing all the parts required to build the aircraft, but not including the engine, propeller or instruments. ~$25,000 gets you a new Rotax 912 ~$1500 gets you a propeller ~$1 - infinite is how how much you might spend on the instruments 😄 i hope this clears up any confusion about the definition of ‘kit’.
  22. danny_galaga

    Bushcat LSA by SkyReach

    Or you could learn to read and pay ~$45,000 for the KIT, like I did 🙂
  23. danny_galaga

    Bushcat LSA by SkyReach

    They must have had a sale on that day 😉
  24. danny_galaga

    Bushcat LSA by SkyReach

    Ballpark is $45,000 for the kit. Will vary a bit with the South African exchange rate. For instance I also bought a propeller from South Africa (P-prop) and when it was first quoted it worked out to about $1600 but by the time I paid for it was closer to $1400.
  25. Damn, and I was going to build a fleet of them and start a flying school 😄
×