PureCaboose

I though it was a spacer, however it is on top of the inner part of the leg spacing it down from the bottom of the frame. This would cause the outer part of the leg to move further out, and make the vertical mount for the hub either more vertical, or more camber. It has been suggested that it is for wheel alignment instead of spacers and flocking at the hub side of the leg. I need to move around the hanger mate aircraft before I take when wheels and legs off otherwise i will block the hanger access. I have the build and technical manuals for the J160, I will be doing a pre and post wheel alignment settings to see what I have currently, and what I end up with after I am done. Hopefully I can reduce the tyre wear on the outer edge, and tone down the twitchiness when on the main gear and high speed rolling (take off and landing)

Ordered the bolt and rubber kit, and there is a new kit for fastening the cowls back onto the fusilage. Going to do a wheel alignment when they go back on, as well as learning how the balance the wheels after I swap the tyres around on the rim.

I am in YMIG, and I use John from the Oak for everything that is beyond me (for now). Part of owning my own plane is expanding my knowledge and experience. In the technical manual there is no spacer, so i am curious as to why it is there, and who put it there now that I think of it as the plane has been L2 maintained to date. Building a platform/brace for the engine hoist so I can lift the wing to get the gear off. New brake disks to go on and balance the very much out of balance wheels. If I can't work it out, I will call John. I though I would asks here to what knoweldge there was. My bad. PureCabosoe

Taking off yesterday (after 2 touch and goes) from a full stop I head a clunk under my seat, immediatly cut throttle and put her back down on the runway (I have 1.4km to use). Taking off the covers over the main landing gear I note that the left hand rubbers are pretty much done, so easy, order new ones and replace (and do the 500 hr update while I am there). My questions is, on the right hand side there is a white spacer that sits above the inboard bolt, about 10mm in height. It is only on the right hand side, the left hand is hard against the floor. I can't see this spacer in the Jabiru Technical Manual for the J160 airframe. Reaching out to the brainstrust here, is this supposed to be there? Should there be one of the left hand side as well or should I remove it when I replace the rubbers? I am going to do a wheel alignment when I finish as I am chewing out the outside of the tyres on the main gear as it is. PureCaboose J160

I tend to wear Ridgeline gear, designed for outdoor people to sit in all weather and enjoy the outdoors. They work on the layer principle. During winter, I wear a thermal layer, then a fleece, then a thicker fleece with a windstopper and so on. On my feet, I wear Oakley boots (I fell in love with them at work), thin socks, then a thick thermal sock inside my boots. Don't get cold feet flying the plane or standing in place when flying the drones. You need to remember to move your feet and legs as well. If you just sit there and don't move them to keep the blood flowing, you will get cold, and it will be hard to warm up within the confines of a small plane cockpit. I am a fidgety person anyway, so I am always flexing my feet, etc. Another big one for retaining heat is your neck (especially the back) and your head. I have either a scarf and/or neck gaiter for winter and a thin thermal hat that fits under my helmet (and I block the air vents with tape in the helmet). As you get cold, your body will reduce the blood flow to your extremities to retain core heat, so staying warm and not letting your core cool is critical. Vests, layers, etc. As a kid, my mother felt the cold, and she had a small metho-powered pocket heater that was the size of a hip flask. You started the thing up, closed up the box and put it in a velvet bag and put it in your pocket to help keep core warmth. Not sure if you can still get them. Greg

I just got back home from a flight, was 8 degrees at the hanger and my J160/2200 started no issues. Close throttle, open choke, press button and fires right up.

I went from a Gizelle to a Jabiru 160. The Jab has less drag (even with full flaps) than the Gizelle. To slow down from 100 knots so I can put in som flaps on downwind I need to pull back on the stick/yoke considerably as I reduce throttle otherwise we just gradually loose speed, unlike the Gizelle where dropping throttle is an immediate slow down. It's easy to float down the runway as well, make sure you have zero throttle and listen to the song of the people from the stall warning tribe. Brakes and airlerons are easy(ish), arm through the dual sticks to use the brakes, and if you need right aileron, push your elbow to the right. If you need rudder, set if with you left hand and use your arm to hold it there.

Sleeping mat, sleeping bag and a bag liner. The bag liner alternated between a cotton one or a polyfleece one, depending on the weather/season. For camping, I have a 2-person lightweight hiking tent. All my gear is from BCF. Tent: https://www.bcf.com.au/p/roman-cradle-2-person-hiking-tent/653002.html?gtmfrompage=checkout Sleeping bag: https://www.bcf.com.au/p/wanderer-singe-0-hooded-sleeping-bag/636449.html?gtmfrompage=checkout Camping mat: https://www.bcf.com.au/p/wanderer-camp-38-hiking-mat/521022.html?gtmfrompage=checkout Summer liner: https://www.bcf.com.au/p/roman-cotton-sleeping-bag-liner/673055.html?gtmfrompage=checkout I have experienced everything from sleeping in a hole in a bivvy bag to luxury camper trailers, and this is what I use as my go-to camping gear for flying or driving when I travel for work. Greg P.S. The water in the metho for the Trangia stove is to make it easier to clean the soot off the outside of the pots.

I have the SkyEcho2 which is installed inside, but the beacon has the bright white beacon. Not really sure I want it inside when it should be outside.

I have the same though, the tail beacon on a Jabiru goes on the top of the fin, there is not much room under the rudder to fit a rear facing light. Perhaps to the cowl that covers the elevator/trim actuator.

Next time you come by Mittagong, give me a shout. I hanger there, and love coffee...

Everything you need should be in here : https://raaus.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/RAAus-Technical-Manual.pdf and costs are here: https://raaus.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2024/08/Schedule-of-fees-and-charges-V3.1-July-2024-1.pdf

Am I reading it wrong that I have to be the builder under SAAA to do my maintenance?

I am addressing this issue with my J160. It spent a few years outside on the handstand, with a pumpkin head cover, at least. The wings, tailplane, etc., were not covered by the pumpkin head cover; they were powdery to the touch and felt rough. The bugs take time to clean off after flight. Over the last few days, I have been cleaning and cutting with Septone Cut and Prepare (Step 1) and following up with Septone Polish and Protect (Step 2). The areas I have done so far feel smooth and clean; the bug guts wipe off with a little spray cleaner, and water easily beads and runs off. Being a wax, it can be removed for repairs when needed. I did a day of work by hand but struggled to use my arms the next day, so I upgraded to an 18v battery polishing/buffer machine, which is perfect. Once I have done the whole airframe (excluding windows), this will be an every 6 months maintenance task for me, especially as she sits in a hangar now and is no longer exposed to the elements, except when she flies.

I have been looking at the AP version for my Jabiru when I do my avionics upgrade in 2026. Keen to see if anyone has done it, how you like/dislike it etc. Greg