BC0979

Just to close out this thread, I decided on natural wood grips. I am not talented in wood carving so I found a guy in Oregon that makes them. Thanks for all the valuable input

Would someone help me out by sending me pictures of the jury strut installed on the Savannah S. The "manual' is not helping, 😂 I am more familiar with round tubes for the jury struts, the S has a formed aluminum strut SA202/203, SN451/452 bracket mounted on the wing bottom, and SN450 which is "wrapped around" the strut? Uncertain about using rivet nuts and screws to secure as opposed to pins (better shear strength) THANK YOU Bryan

What did you use? ICP carpet kit?

IBob, Thanks to you, I installed the park brake today 😁

IBob, I can do the same with the Matco. Lever up or down for brakes set or brakes off. Thanks for the pic of your panel.

I had initially thought that I would mount it on the firewall and use a control knob on the panel but like your idea better.

I am using the Matco dual park brake https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/matcoPBVALVE.php?clickkey=37808

IBob to the rescue again!!!! From your pic, you just tie wrapped the nylon tubes to the side rail. Then up to your park brake mounted to the triangle corner brace of the instrument panel. Nicely done and straight forward. Thank you.

Hello from sunny Florida. You all have been very helpful in the past few months supplying valuable info that "the manual" has not. Working on the brake lines. Adding a Matco dual line park brake. Need your input on how the brake lines should be run from the toe brake cylinders knowing that the rudder pedals will also move the brake lines. I am worried about this back and forth movement on the nylon tubes. ICP supplied right angle connectors for each cylinder.

IBOB, Your translation of the italian-english manual was most helpful. "Upper part of the rear fuselage" that could mean a lot of things including the top surface of the rear fuselage LOL With 3 washers I am currently at 2.8 degrees down What I need now is to figure a way to measure my right thrust. I have been looking for a digital horizontal protractor to reference from the firewall to the engine gearbox face which is perpendicular to the prop shaft

Rotation is the same, thanks for replying

Gentleman, Thank you again for all the helpful input. I am mounting a Viking 130 on my Savannah. I currently have standard tires on her. I just needed to know what settings I should be aiming at. Surly, test flying would be in store. Flying it without cowling.

I mounted my engine today and it seems to be pointed down too much. "The manual" states 0-2 degrees down and 2 +/-1 right. What is the reference line or plane to measure this from? Sure would have been nice for ICP to reference it back to something like the firewall For those of you that have been flying the S, to what thrust angles did you set yours up BTW, I am not using a rotax but the thrust angles are important regardless of the engine brand. Any insight would be helpful Thank you Bryan

IBob, Thanks again for your input. Greatly appreciated. Yeah, this little detail bothered me, so I took another AN5 washer, measured the thickness of 0.062 and ground the long sleeve down by that amount. This should not affect anything else but let me sleep better.

You all have been very very helpful with all of my previous build question so I have another one. Manual Chapter 15, page 9/24 (see pic of page) The bell crank lever has an elastomer(black) center that is assembled per the diagram with the AN5 bolt, a short metal sleeve, AN5 washer, the lever arm(with black elastomer center), long metal sleeve, then two AN5 washers before the castle nut. Here's my assembly per the manual. Sorry the photo is backwards from the diagram but in either case here's my concern: *** the lever arm (black elastomer) has ONE WASHER only on one side, the short sleeve side. Why is there not another washer on the long sleeve side? I am afraid that the metal sleeve will dig/wear into the black elastomer over time. This is the bell crank and it is in constant use. I am asking this forum if anyone has seen excessive wear in this area???? An easy work around would be to add a washer on the long sleeve side and reduce the long metal sleeve by the thickness of this added washer. Not difficult at all but just wanted to know if there were any bell crank issues. Better to be safe right! Thanks in advance! Bryan

Any similarities to Buffalo meat? Buffalo is very lean and has a mild taste, not gamey.

Anyone have roo seats? Is the hide similar to cattle? Roo steak? Serious question

You just confirmed the "sticky" feel of the ICP stock grip which is what prompted me to ask this group about grips. Not having kangaroo hide here in Florida I will more than likely use something else.

Bodie, Thanks for the pics and explaining how you mounted the g205. Seems straight forward.

Very nice. "Man must know his limitations" LOL I don't have the skills to make my own grip without spending more $$$ than buying one ready to go. And I am keeping the Y stick that came with the kit.

The Ray Allen G205 would be exactly what I am looking for, but when I contacted Ray Allen they told me that it would not fit our 1-1/8 stick without splitting.

I reassembled the elevator a different way. Left side first, center hinge next, then the right side hinge. This seemed to work with a very small preload of the hinge, a lot less than the center. The elevator seems to rotate freely.

This is personal preference but I do not like the supplied rubber grip that came with Kit #1. I like a simple textured motorcycle style grip that you find on the motorcycle throttle. The issue I am having is our Y control Stick tube diameter measures 1.140 which I am assuming is a 1-1/8 inch grip. My research shows that the majority of grips are for 1 inch or smaller. Has anyone found a supplier for a simple grip like the Ray Allen G205? According to Ray Allen, this will not fit. They suggested the G300 series which is more of a fighter pilot/gaming stick. What are you using????

Update I used the bushing and a dab of fingernail polish on the end, inserted it on the elevator flange side, this produced a perfect ring mark You can see that the true center is right on the edge of the existing holes. I will end up with an oval hole. This is not good

I totally agree that they should not have any pilot hole. Would have been much easier to mark and drill a nice hole