Vev

Thanks D10,

I agree with Nev too ... hard to find a hole in any of his posts.

Clearly the whole thing is a can of worms, it makes the mind boggle .... I think I shall pass on this invitation to participate in the fly-pass.

Cheers

Vev

Guys,

Many thanks for the input (particularly TP).

Basically there is a couple of us have been asked to do a demonstration fly past and I'm concerned about what is considered formation flying even with more than 100ft of separation ... the CAR 163/AA isn't clear enough to say any distance is enough not to be in formation. I read, just the mere fact that you are travelling at the same time in the same direction a mile apart could mean you are in formation and braking the law if you are not endorsed to do so. What's more, the RAA manual doesn't take into account that a mixture of GA and RAA aircraft could formate together either, even if one had a formation endo.

I think CSAS have recognised that there is a gap in the CAR and Part 91 is going to be their opportunity to fix things.

As for now ... I am very confused about what's ok?

Cheers

Vev

I am well aware that one has to have a formation endo to fly in formation, but how close can one or more ac fly in close company before it's considered formation flying? I use to think it was no closer than 100m but I'm not sure that covers all the legal limitations.

I have read CAR 163 and 163AA but I'm still not clear on it's meanings.

Interested to hear any views?

Cheers

Vev

Doesn't interest me at all so I'm not going to watch it. I was thinking of posting in another thread about promotion of derring-do videos but seeing this post made me not feel grumpy any more, Vev. Can you tell me how it ends? Does he use a washer?

I found this interesting video on AN bolts.

http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=672278271001

Cheers

Vev

Hi Russ,

I presume you are asking about 4 stroke engine lubricants.

This is a very complicated subject and one that could take a lot to explain .... I will try and keep it short and sweet, so forgive me if I just skim the surface.

The different base stock of oils have pros and cons ... Group 1 mineral base oils are cost effective, have higher aromatic qualities and tend to absorb contaminates and clean through better solvency. Hydrocracks base oils have slightly lower solvency than basic mineral oils but are more stable and have a lower resistance to oxidation from thermal stress. Synthetics are more stable to oxidation but have a lower capacity to absorb and dissolve contaminates, they are quite expensive compared to ordinary mineral base oils.

Some lubricant manufactures try to find the sweet spot by blending mineral base oils and hydrocracks to get both the solvency and stability as well as a lower costs ... I think this isn't a bad approach overall. Some go all the way and use 100% PAO (Polyalphaolefins), which I think is more about marketing than a technical requirement, although I know some will argue differently.

One needs to think of the base oil as the carrier for the additive pack ... the additive pack is the real performance improver and has the biggest over all impact on how well an oil lubricates and protects an engine from wear and corrosion.

No matter what approved lubricant you use, you can't beat a higher frequency oil change .... by doing this you stay ahead of oxidisation, additive depletion and get rid of the abrasive and oxidisations causing contaminates.

Oil and filters are cheap ... I say change them often.

Cheers

Vev

thanks vev...........was hopeing you would jump in here...............2nd query...........aircraft spruce sell a fuel addative " Decalin", marketed to remove lead from avgas, tell tale sign of function is white residues out your exhaust. EFI engines with their 02 sensors etc, are not happy with to much lead in the system, emergency use is ok, but get back onto lead free asap...............so..............what's your take on this "decalin"

Decalin does scavenge lead for the combustion chamber and works ok, but it doesn't remove lead from the fuel ... the white is usually a formation of lead phosphate from additisation of Decalin (decahydronaghthalene) as apposed to lead oxides from the normal lead build up we see in the combustion chambers. Be mindful you will still get lead oxide combustion contamination into your engine lube and will still impact on oil change frequencies in Rotax engine and other engines for that matter. (I'm sure Nev will give better guidance on engine service frequencies re combustion contaminates).

However before you add this to your fuel I would check with the oil company and ask them for their view and make sure there is no compatibility issues.

Cheers

Vev

Hi Alan,

It is highly possible your fuel may not have gone stale over that time frame if all of the conditions were ideal. However there are factors that could change things quickly and you could end up with a very different outcome. Long before you end up with a sticky goo, you will get a degradation of octane which will cause detonation ... this detonation will cause a huge amount of damage that is irreversible and could lead to catastrophic engine failure.

Personally I would rather play things safe and use fresh fuel and only store for a short period and blend your 2 stroke oil the day you use it ... why risk damage to your pride and joy as well as your own and pax wellbeing.

There's a very old saying ... there's no fuel like new fuel and old fuel is like no fuel.

Cheers

Vev

OK.............are those "octane booster" additives.....................good, or money wasters

Good question.... I'm not a fan of adding anything to fuels to boost octane as there are too many uncontrolled and unknown elements to manage.

Not sure why you want to bump octane? Although there is an alternative, you can blend Avgas into Mogas to boost Mogas octane, there is no unknown compatibility issues with this approach. The octane bump is greater than the normal linear blend ratios as the lead in the avgas has a synergistic effect on the octane in mogas. Additionally, avgas will also reduce the volatility and slow down evaporation and improve vapour lock issues. However there is a down side, you will get lead some deposition in the combustion chamber and you may have an increased oil change frequencies.

Cheers

Vev

Hi Neil,

Temperature and the quality of the seal on the container will have an effect on how long you can store fuel. If you store your fuel in a well sealed container and keep it in a cool place, which shouldn't be hard at Hoppers Crossing this time of year, it will be fine for a 2/3 months without issue... 1 month less for summer.

Fuel can degrade over time owing to two main factors (there are others but less of an issue), firstly the light fractions in the fuel evaporate if exposed to the atmosphere where you will end up being left with the heavier components and lower octane.... Secondly is oxidation, often stated by heat stress, where the fuel basically breaks down and runs away into auto decomposition. If you keep your fuel in a cool place in a sealed container you get around 95% of the issues that destroys octane values.

However at the end of the day, "it is always best to use fresh".

Cheers

Vev

I have built a 18m x 28m Hangar in the last 12 months and Safety Steel in Dandenong got the job.

PM me if you want full contact details and price guide

Cheers

Vev

Would I be right in assuming that the through bolts are breaking because the block is deforming?

JSB031-1 Jabiru Engine Through Bolts & JSD031-1 Service Directive

Cheers

Vev

I went and met with City Auto Electrics yesterday (nice chaps) and they have confirmed they can place an extra set of windings on the alternator without increasing the wire gage size.... They seem to think that 12 amps output was quite possible. The only issue is too ensure there is enough clearance between the windings and the rotor as the pole size will grow because of the extra winding, which I will measure this weekend.

In the mean time I have installed my spare alternator and things are going fine, however it is marginally over loaded with all of my electrical system running.... the strobes are the killers.

CAE also commented on the reg/rectifier and suggested there were better units on the market and thought an upgraded should be considered, although it wasn't a firm recommendation. Never the less I bought one and will install this over the weekend too.

I will keep you posted.

Cheers

Vev

I know it's not RA, but has anone heard anything about a RAAF a/c incident at RAAF East Sale this arvo.Sounds like a PC-9?

I also had a look at it at Temora ... it was quite generous in size and has great possibility.

It did look very prototype in its presentation and needs to be cleaned up to meet consumer expectations ... never the less, its great to see another local product evolving and look fwd to seeing it further developed.

Cheers

Vev

Don,

Jabiru is not the only engine that has stopped in flight, Rolls Royce knows how true that actuality is ... I understood your point about not claiming on a warranty is good, but my point was, this is not a reality for any engine manufacture.

I think your last comment is being overly emotive with your account of a Jab engine failure (that you missed by few hours) that never actually happened to you. My concern is your personal perception may not be reasonable and you could be unfairly damaging a good Australian brand that deserves more of our support, not criticism through emotive hypothetical comments about what could have happened.

The purpose of this thread, in short, was to report actual problems not brand condemnation..... have a read the very first post.

Cheers

Vev

The best warranty you can have is the one you never have to claim on. The three year warranty on my car hasd just run out and I had zero claims. The way it should be.

Whilst this data is 5 years old, I think it still holds up. I somehow think you have the impression that new cars are more reliable than they really are.

I suspect Jab has a much lower claim rate than some of these car manufactures. In my experience Jab is aways willing to help their customers and do so well after the warranty period is over.

Thanks Nev/Geoff,

Many years ago I use to have motorcycle alternators rewound, as the new Jap replacements were very expensive... lost count how many I had done.

I fitted my spare alternator today but haven't run it yet but will try and do tomorrow or thursday and make sure I have charge with all of my systems on.

The poles are quite far apart and there seems to be a reasonable amount of room to carry more windings or may be heavier wire, however it really needs an expert eye to look at it.

I will give City Aust Elec tomorrow and see what they have to say.

Cheers

Vev

My alternator died today and I think it has failed owing to overloading. The earlier Jabs had a 10 pole (which I have) and was upgraded to a 12 pole (as fitted to the 6 cyl engine) which increased the amps from 8 to 18 amps.

I have a spare 10 pole alternator, which I will fit tomorrow, but I was thinking about having the burnt one rewound…. However I was wondering (need help?) if it would be possible to have an additional layer of winding put on each pole to increase the output and reduce the load?

Of course I could upgrade to the 18amp 12 pole but there is a need to replace the stator and other components, which is not cheap.

Happy to hear any ideas?

Cheers

Vev

Hi Darky,

There is a motel with restaurant that backs onto the airfield at Tyabb.... also a couple of options in the town which is walking distance.

http://www.peninsulamotorinn.com.au/

This one is my fav ... just a short walk from Philip Island airport

http://www.dutchiesrestaurant.com.au/Dutchies/home.html

Cheers

Vev

Well done Win ... cheers Vev

Good luck DT, hope it goes really well. It would be so good to hear that Jabiru is on top of their engine issues.The $5,400 would have been a bargain if you'd achieved 1,000 hours TBO and could confidently expect another 1,000 hours to the next O/h.

 

So, let's see, if you add the $5,400 to the original cost of around $15k and if you get another 1,000 hrs TBO and you don't have to do any further major work it will have cost about $21k for 1,500 hours? Something like that? Or about $14 per hour.

 

A Rotax 912ULS with 20% more HP and a TBO of 2,000 hours at say $23k up front and no mid life engine failure/overhaul except perhaps the gearbox ($900?) - about $24k for 2,000 hours or $12 per hour.

 

I think I know which makes $ and sense.

 

p.s.I have no financial interest in Rotax, Floods or anything like that.

You have 2 Jabs listed in your profile .... have you taken your own counsel and replaced these engines with Rotax 912 out of your own hard earned cash?

I'm sure it costs a lot more than $24k to do the change over ... last time I spoke to someone who actually did the job it said it cost a whole lot more.

Cheers

Vev

I spoke with Shell today and they are very much in support of Jab's recommendation of the 15w-50 Multigrade ... the lubes techo I spoke with can see no reason to be concerned about lead or any other normal combustion contamination in their lube.

He also pointed out that chemistry of the product and it's qualifications meet everything one would expect to see in a lube designed to be used with Avgas.

He also went on to say, until Jab could convince them otherwise the multigrade will remain as Shell primary recommendation for Jabiru aircraft engines.

Cheers

Vev

I was at Keith's presentation too and was a bit surprised to hear this claim .... I'm not sure I can reconcile this in my own mind as I know Aeroshell has a solid pass on the Mil-L-22851 and the new replacement spec SAE-J-1899 which must have lead capabilities to obtain this approval. Completely agree with D10, 25 hour oil changes will take care of a multitude of sins, including lead compounds.

I wonder if there could be some confusion with Aeroshell Sport 4 Plus product? It is also a multigrade 10W-40 but only has an API SL rating which would suggest it will have lead capabilities but only from an obscure old engine test from the 1970-80's, which isn't going to be a strong lead recommendation in Shell's eyes. Of course the Sport 4 cannot be used in the Jab as it is really designed to work in the Rotax and carries the JASO MA spec for wet clutch motorcycles which reads across to Rotax's gearbox/clutch set up.

I will give Shell a call and have a chat to them and see what they have to say.... I will post when I hear their story.

Cheers

Vev

I have a 2200 engine, approx. the last of the solid lifters. Am experiencing a fair deal of vibration under about 2400 rpm, and down to almost idle rpm, which is independent of airspeed. It has the lean kit fitted. I am wondering if it's too lean, and perhaps a different needle and seat may help. Anybody else experienced similar?

There could be a number if reasons as to why your engine is running rough .... read from the attached link in section 12 to kick you off.

J2200 Engine Maintenance Solid Valve Lifter Models Manual

Attached is the link on carby turning .... the lean burn jetting must not be run and needs to be replaced soonest.

JSB018-2 Jabiru Engine Tuning

However I would suggest if engine diagnosis is not your skill set go and find yourself a good L2.... getting things right 1st time is sort of important in an aircraft!

Lets us know how you get on?

Cheers

Vev