ricky m

Hi all I brought this water colour from a guy in uk about 15 years ago.. He was I a separation and needed cash he pianted himself whilst he was waiting beetween lessons ( true story) now I Poss need it to help me out who would like to advise of approx value ( hopeing art people like trikes lol)

Ricky

Hi, i fly 24 aircraft out of ypjt.. With rpl class two med and and raa pilot certificate, i do have transponda fitted and checked but from what i understand you do not need a transponda only a radio... for ctr..

My tank is on the side and that does make bit of pain as cant get full flow with with the small travel mr funnel i use.. so have to balance pressure from pump and triger control to stop funnel over flowing (would be embarasing reporting a fuel spill to the enviro department at YPJT !!!as i am one of the reporting officers there ....lol!!! hence y strugling to lift and pour fuel was not an option). Still since jabiru now advise only keeping mogas for two weeks i have been using avgass for last six weeks (ish).. :( :) so it makes great mower can ....(dont say a word the wife said enough)

Hi metal fits all old army style.. plastic need to match brand of 20litre can.. Here is a pic of mine.. Tanami were great i brought original from a dealer who was no longer a dealer and only had plastic fitting pumps as old stock.. Yet tanami just asked me to return pump i broight and then sent back a pro version for metal cans...

Ricky M, thanks for the heads up about Tanami pump models with plastic cap for plastic fuel containers. Sounds like you changed to using metal jerry can and the Tanami with cap for metal jerry's. Is this correct? I'm assuming Tanami don't make a metal round cap for plastic containers. You said that you had to tighten the plastic caps so much to seal and hold pressure, that they split. Could you put a rubber O ring on the thread to improve sealing? If the Tanami isn't reliable or durable for plastic then I have to buy new metal containers which though not a big issue, is less appealing.

http://140142.33.ekmpowershop.net/quick-transfer-aircraft-re-fuelling-pump-188-p.asp

Tanami pump works a treat for me too. No power problems as I use a small foot pump - good for out bush - lightweight - no static problems either. The hose can be inserted into a filter funnel if you like. I needed 3m hose to have some slack on a Brumby high wing. It takes me just under 2 mins to transfer 20L PULP from ground level into the aircrafts tank. Sure beats juggling a jerrycan while perched on a stepladder.

Nothing like the true Aussie spirit of helping out. Fantastic reponses and very worthwhile comments and suggestions. Thanks everybody.Cosmic, Rick M and Potteroo: The Tanami pump looks a treat and has a plastic container model (I initially thought they were only for metal jerry cans meaning new containers!!) local price is about $75 and use of foot pump sounds convenient and simple. Also no electricity involved.

 

APM: like your ingenuity in making the air system and looks simple but effective.

 

Jet JR: I checked Billy Goat pumps and look simple and easy to use but understand they are expensive around ,$160??

 

SDQDI: great set up and would like to be on acres and have similar set up.

 

To all, thanks. The Tanami pumps looks appealing and modest cost. I might tinker with fittings to caps of my container to construct a sir pressure arrangement,(but might be lazy and pick up a Tanami!!).

 

PS: My enquiry arose because I am currently working in Sri Lanka and found a decent steel Japanese rotary pump for a good price and thought I would bring it home. Based on all your helpful advice, I'm now convinced of merits of the pressurised container system so no sale to the SL's this trip!!

 

Regards Matt Walsh

I tried the tanami pump for plastic and it was a night mare for me to seal i split two sealing caps as had to tighten that hard:( tanami exchanged for metal one and with no quible... Now works easy and only a few slow pumps and its away... Well worth getting

I use a 20litre metal jerry with a tanami pro pump and only need a bicycle pump to get good flow (solid clip on bike pump) control of flow is through fuel gun i got from masters...

There is one at beverly.. Not been in there but if gliding is your thing there is a great gliding club there too..

so top bottom is yes u can fly weight shift in class D if jab or rotax 912 (not ul) and is factory built and u have the apropriate licences:) looks like i might look to start fly wieght shift out of ypjt perth :)

All very confusing then..:( hence my original Q, Kasper u say two types jab certified? I thought they all were? A,B And J... Now. I am more confused lol (it dont take much)

Is it possible to fly raa factory built wieght shift in class D? If u have raa endorsement and rpl with ctr endorsement?like u can fixed wing....

Here is something i was not aware of..( I own a jabiriru and love it) was at work today (ypjt)and saw a lame working on a r22 so stoped for a chat and asked wot he was doing.. To my suprise he was checking for sticking valves as per manual (every 300hrs) as the oil/fuel sizzles on stem seals and causes deposits to form potentially causing a sticky valve... So dont mater how much ur engine costs,they all have similar pronlems,,( stick to the inspections and dont scrimp and i reckon u got the same chance of a faliure as any other engine else... Its a shame somthing so cheap and more than reasonbly reliable is bieng Pushed to potentially not existing anymore by the people who asked for cheap affordable avistion because the 2stroke was unreliable and thirsty (lmao)...On another note there is an aircraft at thar airport with a jab engine in ( vh experimental) and i was taliking to the guy the other day about jabs, he said he had not done most of the s/b on the engine as he thought not needed ( choose wot he thought was needed ....WTF.... I say most jabs later problems are poor maintainece of older not updated engines....

Maybe it will go like the uk? caa (uk cassa equivalent) oversee licenses,BMAA(British microlight association) over see airworthiness ... The uk nppl (m) microlight (3axis and wieght shift) allows flight though controlled airspace matz etc.with basic medical.. If u are clear and precise on the request on the radio....ur cleared through the zone:) simples lol....but nppl is uk only (no jar priviliges) hence i now how nppl.rpc (raa aus)and rpl (casa). plus 3 radio liciences (yes 3... One for caa uk... One endorsment for rpc... And one for rpl, to get the cassa one i had to take an english language test..lmao.. yet the sylibuss is pretty much the same for all. ohhh well

I too have had an ongoing issue with misfiring, running rough on take off. Checked everything that's been posted here. Fuel flow, spark plug leads, distributor caps, etc, etc.Then I was given a spare coil that came off a Jabiru that had a cold start kit fitted to it, so I knew it was good. Fitted the coil (the gap was a bugger to set, used thin card board) to what I thought was the bad side. But this made no difference. Still misfired on take off. Feeling that "Murphys Law" was in play, I then swapped the replaced coil (the one we removed) with the other one (the one I didn't touch).

 

This went very smoothly as I had already done it recently (very) and I still had my pieces of cardboard! Took a few turns to get it started (A breakthrough clue, but I didn't know it then) and took off once again still misfiring. Back safely on the ground I decided to put in new plugs (the old ones had only done 30 hours but I was now clutching at straws AND I better re-check the coil gaps. I'm positive that I set them at .0012" but they measured .0017" - WTF!!!

 

So to cut an embarrassing story short I re-set the coil gaps to .0010" (a few thou under to allow for Murphy) and went flying. Climbed like a scalded cat. Problem fixed.

 

Hope this may help.

Plug colour can be misleading. On full power they may be one colour, but after a few minutes at low power in the approach, then idle while taxying in they can change.

Carried out fuel flow test today 1.5 litres a minuite at fuel pipe fuel passing through float needle good... Float bowl level 11-12mm removed float needle and flushed found small bit debri in jug but cant confirm from flushing....Spark plugs replaced front cylinders plugs nice couler rear cylinder little sooty when wiped light grey/brown:) Replaced all plugs tightend ht leads,will check again after a flight tommorow get a better idea of colour as was only short taxi ground run...could not do compresion test as mine was wrong size and leak down tester not here till Tuesday :( so nothing conclusive..

I couldn't find the date of publication. The HKS is not on the scene now, as far as I know. Well constructed by a Japanese maker. so indicative of how difficult this market is.The article is balanced, I agree Perhaps the message is something like... No engine has a perfect record and attention to looking after it is necessary with all of them. If you are looking for a black and white answer ie "A" good "B" bad it's not there. There isn't one anyhow. There's no single silver bullet. Nev

http://www.aviationsafetymagazine.com/airplane/LSA-Engine-Safety.html

Seems like a fair and well balanced article:)

Hi Ricky m, have you checked the carburettor out? I do recall similar symptoms to yours from a friend some time ago and think it had something to do with the density sense line on the carby ( small tube from the side of your carb to the filter box) Might be worth overhauling your carbons well.

Intermittent problems are the most difficult to trace. I don't think you are likely to find another person with exactly the same symptoms, and similar ones may have different causes, entirely. There are a fewer people who can troubleshoot these days, so it's a process of elimination. Do the ones that should be part of normal "build" or post install checks first.I've seen people pull a motor to pieces when it was just a plug lead shorting on a hot part of the motor. THAT shouldn't happen if you go about it methodically. Are you getting FULL power before the symptoms showed themselves.? The choke is only working when the throttle is fully closed or close to it The slide in the carb could be sticky. Check needle too. Nev

Getting full power and still climbs when coughing...it is coincidance i think! That it missis on second full power climb out... As after I readjusted choke checked carb ect went and done 3 circuits all good flew about 4 hoours fualt free then after 1 hour tweenty flight 2. Hours on ground missed on climb at about 500ft and continued till about 1000 Then cleard,couple of laps in the over head cleared and all good :( will do leak down on weekend check lifters and then oil presure if that checks out... Thanks for your thoughts and sugestions :)

Bear in mind you have dual plugs. The likelihood of two being suss at the same time is very low unless you have oil fouling from something like a worn inlet guide.It could be a hydraulic valve lifter. It your oil pressure a bit high?

Other wise check for sticking valves. That's not easy as it's not a constant situation. If on full power. it could be insufficient fuel flow. Kinked hose or filter or a piece of rubber from cutting the end of a hose, anywhere in the system. Check rate of fuel flow to carburetter right to the float needle. Nev[/

 

.. Will look more mechanical as well as continuing with fuel checks :) was really hoping someone said ahh yes i had this fualt it was xyz ....

Hi RickyCould be a sticking valve. Try a compression test

A full power miss is unlikely to be carb ice and more likely to be something ignition or valve train. Is it s stumble for just a few cycles or does it continue for a period? Do you have EGT monitoring on all cylinders. If so does the cylinder go "cold" indicating complete lack of firing or does the engine just run rough but without a large EGT temperature drop on 1 cylinder. A completely cold cylinder is likely to be valve but rough running could just be 1 plug not firing.

Just saying a fact, an engine missing under load ! Spark plugs is my first pick, fouled or unserviceable.