Callahan

I'm replying to my reply.

Went to the airport to try some lasr ditch remedies to my 503s mid-range roughness. My ass is worn out. My brain is numb.

I've tried thinking outside the box 10 ways to Sunday. No luck.

Today, for lack of nothing else, I changed pulse pumps even though I know it was getting fuel through the Facet pump I have in the line. Re-synced the carbs for the umpteeth time, jets, vents, all cleaned, viton needles new, float arms set at 10.5mm, high quality fuel lines. I mean what the hell else is there?

Just so you know, I eliminated everything in the fuel line, just had fuel running straight from the tank to the pulse pump. Tank is well vented. I even removed the cable actuated chokes & replaced them with manual chokes. No luck.

Changed out everything that's possible to change....carbs, coils, leads, new plugs, new plug caps & on & on. Could it be a breakdown in the stator windings that's not showing up on the meter but happening while running? That's one thing I haven't changed.

Wonder what a stator costs?

I've got two NEW coils on order. Since a coil helped the hard start in the Drifter, it might do the trick for the Trike. The coil I used in the Drifter was a used one but fairly new.

The Rotax manual says that coils can continue to run a powerplant but breakdown under heat etc. Nev pointed that out too. Thanks again Nev!

When & if I figure this sucker out, I will certainly post it on here. It may someday be useful to somebody instead of their beating their brains out & learning new cuss words.

Bill

Crush the plug HT....never thought of that Nev. I use pliers to tighten it. Found one loose recently.Yuri....aren't you the Russkie who amazed the world in Sputnik sub-orbital flight? What? '62.

 

Just kidding. Yes, my Drifter has standard prop clearance. Currently, it has a 60 inch (total length) IVO on it. Tracking & angles are spot on. I use a "cube" digital protractor. No dings, gouges etc. Oil is 50 to one mix. Thank you for your input!

Crush the plug HT....never thought of that Nev. I use pliers to tighten it. Found one loose recently.

Yuri....aren't you the Russkie who amazed the world in Sputnik sub-orbital flight? What? '62.

Just kidding. Yes, my Drifter has standard prop clearance. Currently, it has a 60 inch (total length) IVO on it. Tracking & angles are spot on. I use a "cube" digital protractor. No dings, gouges etc. Oil is 50 to one mix. Thank you for your input!

It's worth using platinum iridium plugs if you are racing or have a motor in a car that has a bank of plugs hard to get at, where you are paying 100 /hr for someone to remove manifolds, etc. If you service your own plane I'd use the others gapping them to .5 mm. and change at say 50 hours. They are not worth cleaning at the price Use CORRECT heat range and use anti seize on the threads, (not too much) particularly with an air cooled 4 stroke and tension correctly. A loose plug will run hot. I'd chuck the screwed on HT connections or crush them partly so they won't come off. Nev

Thanks Don!

Every comment is worth something at this point! Believe me.

My KIA Sorento with wire platinum plugs has gone 174,000+ miles on the same plugs. I still get same mileage as new.

However, I've done the plug gaping & installed new plugs NGK-B8ES, new leads, changed plug caps, gone through six sets of coils etc. No help. As soon as it goes beyond 3500 rpm up to 5k, it's vibrating heavily.

Will post a YouTube video soon.

Thank you!

A friend a few years ago discussed fine wire electrode spark plugs. Said that having a far smaller radius to the tip meant that lead could not foul plugs as easily because the spark always originated at the tip, not moving around as on a broader surface with thick electrode. That and the superior voltage available from cdi ignition meant that they never had plug fouling with their competition 2 strokes that ran on avgas.For what its worth, Don

Nev,

I use 93 octane E-free, Marine and that expensive 2-stroke oil that WallyMart sells at $36.00 per gallon.

As far as detonation, I had a 503 bore a hole in a piston a while back. If you watched my video, that watery recovery effort was because of it.

I'm editing a video now of the vibration. I'll put the YouTube link on here when finished.

Thanks a lot!

Bill Catalina

It's possible you are getting detonation. with the leaner mid range fuel flow setting. Some oils drop the octane rating of the fuel mix, whether it has a pump or not. Try a GOOD oil and higher octane fuel. Don't use outboard (TCW3). Its a different formulation. Pennzoil a few years ago made a special formulation for aircraft use two strokes. It's probably only available in the US. Check also if you have carbon deposits or the plugs are too hot. or you could have crankshaft runout or a bearing with play, or a crack developing near the drive gear crank web. Nev

One Track,

My sentiments exactly.

I have done everything humanly possible & redone them so many times, I've forgotten what I've done. However, my mechanical skills are lacking so I'm still beating my brains out trying to figure something simple I haven't thought of.

I appreciate your advice. Today will be my last day at the grindstone...or a bullet in the brain.

Bill Catalina

Nev.....you da' man! I'm not leaving you other responders out either because you all know more than me!

Over the Weekend News:

Drifter: 503 B-box

1) Cured hard starting Drifter with newer coil. Hooray.

2) Showed my friend Nev's response on coil breakdown.His reply? ...Oh! Sounds like he knows what he's talking about!

2) High speed vibration under 5k rpm still hanging in like a cold you can't get rid of. I use Marine 93 octane.

Trike: 503 - B-box

1) Mid-range vibration at 5k & below still hanging like a cold.....this is heavy vibration not hi-speed like the Drifter.

Tried 3 different props, six separate carbs, syncing carbs multiple times, cleaned up electrical, switch checked, all contacts cleaned, new 14 gauge wiring, pulled Facet pump & squeeze bulb out of line, tried a small jar with gas held high to eliminate all "in-line" fuel delivery problems, new leads, new plugs at .18 gap, added one coil from another motor, bought two Balance Masters....no help what-so-ever, prop tracking okay, new carb needles, tried different carb needle positions, thoroughly cleaned all carb inlets, outlets, jets, & a myriad of other remedies I've lost track of.

Mid-range is killing me.

Down under,

I did think about using iridium plugs but the cost factor. Now that it starts easily, I'll keep the status quo. Thanks!

Had a heck of a time finding a faulty coil on a car..... I was young and before the internet. Started fine cold.... but not hot......I believe iridium plugs help with starting on the inverted 2 strokes....

Failure with increased temperature is a classic electrical and electronic component signature.Often had numerous coil failures over the years, where coils worked when cold, and failed when hot.

Got a mate with a tilt-tray truck, he often gets called out to pick up vehicles that have stopped with ECU or other electrical, or electronic component failure.

 

He says to me, "You NEVER, EVER, try to start the vehicle, once you arrive to pick it up! The reason being, it has cooled down, and 9 times out of 10, it will start right up again! Then the owner jumps in, says 'Great!' - and drives off! - meaning you've lost your towing job!!"

 

"What you do, is - you winch the vehicle on without even attempting to start it - then when you get to the specified destination, you then start it up, and drive it off!"

Oh Crap! From what you've told me about a plug wire coming loose.....and killing the coil......I landed my Drifter two days ago, notice a plug wire hanging off....I'll have to check now & see if I have a bad coil. I haven't flown it since then.

Thanks again.....I had forgotten to safety wire the inverted plug caps!

Coils age. Testing them is not that straightforward as they break down usually when hot. Aging material breakdown oxidation etc (any moisture is deadly) reduces the resistance of the material separating the very fine windings in the HT side, and the coli leaks and gets hot. Vibration of the motor is another cause of failure. Continuity test is of limited value, but is a test you can do easily so still worth doing as if it fails that test don't bother further. Some test by running the coil for hours at a high gap, on a bench set up. It can sometimes take that long to show a fault. They don't last forever and should be stored in a sealed plastic bag. If a plug lead falls off and it's open circuited that can kill it, as it will track internally. Electricity finds the path of least resistance. Nev

Possibly not the coil but rather its connections, particularly the ground (earth) wire.

I was going to post something & forgot what I wanted to post. A 68 year old brain will do that! Let me think.....duhhh.....

Oh yeah!

Has anyone had this experience? My Drifter with a 503 inverted was very hard to start. Figured the inverted plugs were flooded all the time. For the heck of it, I pulled a fairly new coil off a spare motor I had. Stuck it (only one) on the Drifter....sucker cranked on one or two spins & does so now every time! It wasn't a fluke!

Now, people have told me that a coil is a coil.....they either work or they don't. I say B.S.! Both coils tested to spec but one was newer! The motor continues to crank easily, often on the first revolution.

Anybody want to respond? Would love to have some input.

I can't speak for Rick Davis, the overhaul company owner which I believe is called Red Gold Rotax....forget it, I forgot but that's close.

But I think it's up to the engine owner. If you want a knew crank, I'm sure Rick will install one. He's done four of mine over the years & my policy with him is to check the crank to specs. If it checks okay, keep it.

I will add this fact. In 45 years of experience with Rotax motors, I have never had a crank fail. I also never depend on an oil pump. I mix. A pump is just something else to break or mismanage.

Jimmy,

Was that photo before the overhaul or after?

Just kidding!

You should've put the after picture in there.

Bill Catalina

Like Ashley said: "That Bill is a pushover!"

You shoulda' seen the ones I didn't show you!

The things some folk will do to sit next to the girls................

That was a great story Soleair! Would've loved to have had that pulled off. I can imagine Jack doing it too!

I've heard of the Dangerous Sports Club. I think its called the Travis Pastrana Dangerous Sports Club now.

If you don't know who he is just type the name on YouTube!

Didn't know two seater 'Dactyls were in England. There's still some about. Saw one for sale on Barnstormer's a while back....about $1,500.

We did have a few deaths in the U.S. Let a friend of mine fly mine, told him to keep stiff legged so that nose gear wouldn't collapse on him on landing. It did. He was on an asphalt runway & it gouged a hole in his kneecap so deep you could see the bone!

Take Care!

The UK agents for the Dactyl made a two seater, & I went up in it for a ride with one of the partners. It took a lot of runway to get airborne!About the time I was building my Dactyl, I got involved with David Kirke of the Oxford University Dangerous Sports Club. They pioneered bungee jumping in UK, & got up to all sorts of crazy stuff.

 

David hoped to fly his Dactyl to France from Dover, UK, & then go on to Paris & fly his machine through the Arc de Triomphe in the centre of Paris. Jack wanted to get involved, to oversee the flying, & maybe take part in the stunt. I met him at Heathrow Airport, then we drove out to Longleat House to meet up with David & Alex Thynne, the Marquess of Bath, who also owned a Dactyl & bought it to fly from the grounds of his stately home.

 

In the end, the trip never happened, mainly due to lack of funds, & the total lack of planning. But it was a great craic, as the Irish say.

 

I don't know of any UK Dactyl pilots who died.

 

Bruce

You're most welcome David! That was a very creative way to describe it too.

That video took two months of effort & I got a No Tresspass notice for the airport delivered to my door by a Sheriff's Deputy after it was all over. Our local yokel airport manager didn't approve of my "dangerous flying." I violated the Trespass about 10 times, was never arrested.

I had a video of all the encounters with this guy on YouTube but after things settled down I removed it. You wouldn't believe this guy. He went way out of bounds. I may put it back up & if I do, I'll post it here.

He called FAA too.

Thanks again!

There is mention of a Bucket of Luck being transferred to a Bucket of Experience somewhere. Even though you obviously have a pretty full Bucket of Experience, I think your Bucket of Luck is still pretty full, and not only due to some subliminal frames which took me a bit of time to examine with due diligence. Great watching, thanks!David

Bruce!

I remember Crazy Jack! He did a two-up with a female on a cross country for Glider Rider magazine. Both were quite brave. Somehow he widen the "cockpit" to fit two. Guy wasn't stupid for sure & neither are you! You designed your own gearbox! Amazing!

Well, glad to hear your survived a Terror-Dactyl ownership!

P. S, Any idea how many less fortunates than us were killed in that "scary sumbitch?"

P.S.S. Watch my video as I take a Drifter for a test drive. On YouTube...Drifter Flying by William Catalina

Take Care!

Bill Callahan

Hi CallahanThat's amazing - I imported one of the first Dactyl kits into UK. And yes, complete with direct drive Sachs motor with that tiny little prop. Made a lot more noise than thrust. Taught myself to fly it from the few pages at the back of the build manual.

 

When Jack McCornack introduced that big floppy canard, I stole the idea but made my own. It was about half the size of Jack's, but worked well because it was a defined airfoil made from ply skins with an aluminium leading edge.

 

I also uprated my engine to a 440 Robin, & made my own reduction gear & 56" prop. I reckon that about quadrupled the thrust!

 

I logged 132 hours on my Dactyl, including a night flight & a 140 mile cross country. I loved & feared my Dactyl in equal parts.

 

Bruce

Hey Bruce!

You brought back a memory of my first ultralight, a Terror-Dactyl (Pterodactyl).....before the canards came along. 22 hp Sachs. Scary sumbitch it was! Came in 4 boxes, no pictures or diagrams. 19 and 79. Kept it 2 years, sold it to a guy who crashed it. No surprise there.

Got it! Thanks!

This one.OFFSET PROP, Balance Masters

I just wrote them for info. I've got a 503 with a 60 inch IVO on my Drifter. Which one did you order if you don't mind my bugging the heck out of you. I found their site to be a little un-explanatory as to ordering.

As for screwing something up, I'm a master at it. But the one I bought was at least 30 years ago & it was smaller than their 7 inch version.

Thanks!

You mentioned a "harmonic balancer before, I use a "Balance Master" on my prop flange, it makes a huge difference. link below:HOME

I don't know how you could screw up the installation.....you just bolt it to the flange with your prop.I know it made a big difference to mine through the whole range. I had previously used a a dynamic balancer with good results, but I still had vibes in some of the range. I told a friend ( another maintainer) about them, he was impressed enough to become a distributor for them here.

M61,

I was hoping somebody would answer that. Thanks. I had tried one years ago with no noticeable improvement. However, knowing me, it could've been something I neglected at installation.

I'll give it a try. If it works as you say, I'll buy another for my Trike.

Thanks again!....and for the link.

Bill Catalina

You mentioned a "harmonic balancer before, I use a "Balance Master" on my prop flange, it makes a huge difference. link below:HOME

Thank You Franco!

I think I'm on my way to a vibration free life!

I appreciate you guys.

Bill Catalina

Will do! Thanks M61.

While you're in there, check that both needle are in the correct slots and are straight and have no wear, then make sure that both cable outer ends are properly seated in their respective sockets. Probably wouldn't hurt to have a look at the inner as well. I had to change one recently as it was fraying.

While you're in there, check that both needle are in the correct slots and are straight and have no wear, then make sure that both cable outer ends are properly seated in their respective sockets. Probably wouldn't hurt to have a look at the inner as well. I had to change one recently as it was fraying.

All good ideas & I appreciate them all but I have good news.....finally!

I rewired all wiring that exits that hole on the case that comes from the stator. Those same wires going to the ignition switch up front were old, had multiple connections & were of various sorts of wire material.

I replaced all that with high quality, 14 gauge stranded, cleaned the ground at the switch with a new ground wire, made new connections and.....no more electrical miss!

You're probably asking yourselves, "Why didn't this dingbat do that to begin with?" The answer is no excuse but it has been working fine with those wires for 19 years. I just figured it wasn't the wires. Stupid I know but there it is.

Now the problem is mid range abnormal vibration. When the needles rise above & lets the main jets have at it, it purrs like a kitten from 5k to full power. When I back down below 5k to mid range, here comes the heavy vibration. I think there is a mismatch in the slides. Next job is to get the two slides to work in harmony & I "think" that will cure my mid range blues!

Thank you all very much for your help. That miss was a bitch to cure! I tried everything but the obvious! Lesson learned.

Bill Catalina