skootaroo Posted May 23, 2007 Author Share Posted May 23, 2007 Thanks Arthur, I've got 4-6 solids now, I'll pick up some 4-7's when I need them. I've been looking for a spec on what shape the dome head really is. I need to make the "anvil" I'll be squeezing my rivets against, I guess I'll just make the dimple freehand. Alloy shank pops? Is that to elimenate the rusting of the shank remains? Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pylon500 Posted May 24, 2007 Share Posted May 24, 2007 I need to make the "anvil" If your any good at sharpening drills or end mills, you could grind one to suit the shape of a dome head rivet and just drill it. Would pay to case harden afterwards. If your using 4-6/4-7's on a 0.016" web to spar cap, they must be pretty thick caps! It's always a good idea to arrange the rivets to have the heads on the thinnest side of the joint, ie heads onto the 0.016" side. Yeah, I guess the alloy shanked pops are mainly for anti corrosion more than weight saving. The Vampires used to use alloy shank AA73 3-2's to rivet skins to ribs (both 0.016"), a bit hard to get though. Any photo's yet? Arthur. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skootaroo Posted May 24, 2007 Author Share Posted May 24, 2007 spars Here's what I've drawn for a sparcap to shearweb interface. I've tapered the angle as much as I can, but as you can see the rivet heads are the minimum distance to the fillet radius. This was one of the reasons I wanted to use a tighter row of pop's, as they have a smaller shop head they could be installed closer to the fillet so I could trim more off the angle. As you can see I would have been installing my rivets the wrong way round, I can turn them around and no pixles will be harmed in the process. Carl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pylon500 Posted May 25, 2007 Share Posted May 25, 2007 That looks OK so far. Angle looks heavy enough to build a cantilever wing! Best to stick to solid rivets for the shear web, web might need to be a bit heavier inboard if cantilever Arthur. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skootaroo Posted June 5, 2007 Author Share Posted June 5, 2007 I found why my spar caps are so thick, I was only counting the horizontal portion of the angle as a tensile member. I have recalculated my spar now to count the three pieces individually and found I can use much smaller angle! Anyway, back to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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