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Rotax rotation

Guest fly

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Some advice please,


I wish to turn over, via an electric starter, a rebuilt grey top rotax 582.


It has been sitting for at least 5 years, since being rebuilt and moves freely by prop.


I do not want to fire it up as yet, only want to test my wiring etc.


I was thinking of removing the plugs and giving it a dose of innox or similar.


When I do eventually fire it up, beside the rotax run in procedure, is there any other


precautions I should follow ??


Just wondering if there is something I should know . any advice appreciated.


Thanks .........................................................FLY



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I wouldn't use inox, it's not really a good lubricant. Remove the carbs and the plugs and apply a bit of good outboard oil directly to the big ends, (you can see them when the rotary valve is open) the rotary valve and the piston skirts, using an oil can. This will provide protection and a bit of lubrication for start-up till the oil in the fuel does its job. Outboard oil has additives to reduce corrosion, and it's unlikely to cause any problems with the other lubricant. Nev..



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Guest ozzie

Hi Fly


i recieved my EAA copy of Sport Pilot last week and it had an article that i think may help prevent moisture entering your engine whilst it is being stored. simple and very effective. obtain several plastic medicine type cannisters with screw on plastic lid.


drill lots of holes in the lid about 1/4 inch in dia. place a piece of nylon flyscreen under lid and fill cannister with silika gell .(there is a type available that changes colour when it has absorbed moisture. it can be reactivated by drying in an oven.)


make some rubber boots remove the air cleaners and slip onto the inlet of the carbs and fit the cannisters to the boots. make one for the exhaust outlet as well. so simple and effective.





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You can wrap the engine in a substantial plastic bag and include the silica gel ingredients, and seal it. Engines that havent been run, store better than those that have. If the ports are not open (pistons in an appropriate position) this procedure will not be very effective. Most oil companies make a preserving oil but this should be removed from the engine prior to starting. If you wash the engine out with a solvent, you have to ensure that ALL the internal parts are lubricated prior to starting. This is not too easy to do properly. nev..



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G'day Fly.


If the engine has not been fired up since the rebuild, and has been stored properly, then the re-constitution to full service should not be to difficult. By removing the exhaust system as well you should be able to get a better (internal look) by use of a little mirror and a strong torch. Myself I use a dentist mirror. Devil of a job to get one. On complete examination of the top half, including the combustion chamber, bets done without the plugs in the cyl. head pay special attention to the crankshaft side of things. Look for any discoloration or little rust spots. If all looks well pay some attention to the piston, rings and piston skirt's. 80% of problems can be spotted by close examination via inlet and exhaust ports.


Hope this helps.




Steve. P.S. If you need further advise please ask.



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If the engine has not been run for some years and was not properly prepared for long term storage when decommissioned you may well find corrosion in the bearings. When left standing the remaining oil runs down to near the bottom of each curved surface. At the border of this oil moisture is attracted and can cause a spot of corrosion. I had this problem years ago on an old Robin 440 and when it was fired up again I could only get limited power from it. After much work and investigation the corrosion was found, new bearings fitted and full power was regained. My advice - check it out well - even to splitting the crank case and inspecting - may be cheaper in the long run.


Of course this is all only if the engine hasn't been stored correctly and regularly turned over. Best of luck with it. Cheers, Bill



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