Peasant_Pilot

thankyou

Good evening all,

Just looking to get some insight on inspecting wood wings, they are uncovered and mostly constructed, they are either Spruce or Hoop pine but id say they are hoop pine just based off the information i have.

besides the obvious things like cracking and splits etc, are there any techniques, checks i can do on the spars? moisture check etc

Cheers in advance

Cheers

Rob

2 hours ago, Geoff_H said:

Over the years I have noticed so many marriage problems for aircraft builders.  In the 1970's a friend was building a VP1.  His wife left him for another woman.  I have stopped building my own design because of the extreme hassles I was getting.  Why do our partners object so strongly?  Sorry if this is a little off subject. I hope things work out well for you PP.  I am behind you all the way.  Your craft will be great, you are putting a great effort into it.

Appreciate the positivity mate, never really have quite understood the issue with having projects while in relationships. Motivation to fi is this thing has never dimmed though and now having more dedicated time to put in I'm feeling really good about it

On 14/06/2023 at 7:25 AM, Paul davenport said:

Haven’t seen any updates. How’s it going 

Still moving forward on it, have gone through a separation over the last few months and have just moved etc, new place has more plane building space, all the parts etc are currently sitting stored at work for another couple of weeks, will be primed any day now, now that the main body work is all done. So having more time soon to work on it I'm feeling positive about the build 

On 11/03/2023 at 2:23 PM, facthunter said:

Looks as though it would fly OK. Make sure the canopy is fastened though and it would be HOT under there. Nev.

Yeah its my only draw back with low wings like this

yeah funnely enough i did see that after i started the project idea

Quote

Just for your info, there is already a "Valkyrie" on the RAAus books, registered as 19-1684.

 

It's this recently finished one-off build by Chris Weber over at Taree:

I like the Atec. Nice aircraft. I actually looked a lot at the wing design as I like the high aspect ratio in the wing. 

Thanks mate

Some of the early work on the model, started with the side profile sketch. The biggest hurtle has been learning CAD

Thats very similar to what I'm planning on doing. Build a central beam with rotisserie style mounts and I'll be mounting bulkhead/rib section all the way along.....foam in between then skin it

Very cool mate, good to see. I'll be hopefully starting to do the plug soon

It definitely comes with its challenges, I definitely don't have the answer to the solution. I do have some ideas on maintaining strength in the fuselage especially around the tail section so I'm hoping when I start doing some section testing I can find a good solution. Would be interested to see your prototype work Geoff. It's the technical and fabrication side that really has me wanting to keep pushing through this. 

29 minutes ago, onetrack said:

The major thing is to design a cabin that doesn't crush (buckle in halves) upon impact in a hard landing. If you're going to dive into terra firma at 45° or steeper, then nothing is going to stop you getting killed.

But a cabin that doesn't fold up in a forced landing is a crucial factor in any new light aircraft design, and can be a big selling point.

so the concept  i was working with was going to be a Chromoly Peremiter frame around the pilot and passanger, that idea came from sitting in a formula one car. the idea essentially is to keep them as safe as possible. the first step is to design a cockpit seperatley from the aircraft and build the airframe around it. safety is at the top of the list.... but i have so much to learn about it all, appreciate all the info, i need as much as i can get

14 minutes ago, facthunter said:

The cockpit cut out is the Big weakness in it Monococque (Single shell Fr) Carbon/ glass etc is probably the future. Carbon fibre is dangerous to work with.   Nev

I tend to agree, have looked at running ir as a 2 piece Canopy. going to look at a roll bar essentially to be built into the cockpit structure

43 minutes ago, Marty_d said:

It's a nice looking bird, and you know what they say - if it looks right it usually flies right!

 

Good luck with it.  Planning to blow your own canopies or get that done?

Cheers man, i figure the the main difference between an ugly bird and an expensive pretty bird is essentially the moulds/design, so if i can get that right....the build process should follow, thats the theory anyway. 

As for the Canopy, that is up in the air at the moment, i like the canopy design but might need to redesign as a 2 piece....unsure about the blowing process for a canopy and where to start. i have an idea on the process but i think getting sufficient clarity will be key, its the only part in the design i might have to potentially outsource.

4 hours ago, onetrack said:

I always wondered why light aircraft manufacturers didn't come up with a "two halves fuselage shell" design, as this was the feature that made the Mosquito a winner, when it came to ease of construction and low cost of construction.

 

https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/C992569

 

https://www.awm.gov.au/collection/C992570

 

Im a big fan of the Mozzy, actually didnt know this...very interesting. i thought the split fuse would be a good idea for a few reasons, it will help with the 51% build, the cockpit assembly will be its own structure with the spar carry throughs in It and reinforced cockpit and so on so you will need to close it all in together.  Im designing a jig that will come in the kit to align the cockpit and 2 halves. trying to simplify the build for people to encourage more home building at actual affordable pricing.

Thanks mate

1 hour ago, facthunter said:

Good luck with it PP. Plenty of work there. Nev

Evening  ladies and Gentlemen, so here is a bit of a concept iv been designing for the past few months, still very early stages and so much work still needing to be done but the basic layout is now pretty much where i want it. I am in no way experienced in CAD but iv been teaching myself what i can and learning from Youtube as much as possible

So here is the basic specs and plan

• 310kg empty weight (600kg MTOW)
• 120kn cruise at 5200rpm
• Utilize the Rotax 912 ULS 100hp
• Home built 19 Category RAAUS registration
• fiberglass/carbon Airframe with Foam Core Bulkheads
• 2 Seat
• Tricycle Gear Configuration
• the Price........ to be the most affordable composite airframe(no avionics or motor) on the Market in Australia - Under 25k

Im designing this to be able to be manufactured and purchased as a 51% kit, with the idea that the bare airframe can be assembled and on its legs in a 2 week period(100 Hours) , now this is bare airframe and engine mounted, the Fuselage will be in 2 halves with a moulded cockpit that will be mounted as the halves are joined. wings will be in 2 halves and foam core ribs will have to be set and epoxied in place along with the skins. 

 the following still needs to be designed

• Wing root fairings
• landing gear
• cockpit and panel
• vertical stab profile
• wingtips
• and a bunch of detail work.

Currently im at the point where i can start doing some CFD on the Aircraft model and hoping to start that soon. 

There will be a lot of changes to be made and im still very much learning, might be a pipe dream at this point but im going to see where it takes me

So have all the underbody repairs done, finishing off a few fine body work bits on the sides and top, doors being refitted with new hinge setup, nearly in primer now. doesnt look like a heap has been done but there has been so many small and frustrating repairs needed on this thing, we are getting closer to paint

So, work has been killing me a bit with time, trying to squeeze in bits and pieces when i can. There has been a lot of body patch work and annoying jobs that aren't really worth posting up

Have been working out tyre size etc. happy with the Aero Classics. 

Fuselage is all but stripped, some body work and door refitting to do this week.

will also be fabricating a new nose fork to accommodate a beefier tire for the front. Nearly finished the design in Cad on that

33 minutes ago, Blueadventures said:

The Nynja has a mil spec aluminium hinges on the door hinge points upper piece opens up (can be opened up to 70 knots)  and lower piece opens forward.  I have full length hinges on both locations.  If yo look in the Skyranger thread and then in New Nynja to area you will see the hinge in most videos on that site.  The more recent videos are super wide setting so will show the most of the hinge. 

Is it the 2024 t3 milspec hinges? Or just the normal 5000 series milspec?

1 hour ago, turboplanner said:

Attaching to FRP is best done by laminating steel plates of sufficient thickness on the rough side of the laminate. Second best is fitting a washer on the clamping side of the FRP to avoid a rivet or nut chewing out the material.

 

Whether the door rips off and disppears in flight depends on the flow around the fuselage and the fer/fat angle of the piano hinge.

 

I do aerial photography with a small hand held camera in a C172. Its window opens but the roar inside means you need to shout, the camera needs a VERY tight grip, and a lot of force to get it out in the slipstream, but there's  spot up forward where the wash coming off the windscreen gives some protection. Each different aircraft design will be different.

It's a very good point. My intention is to have backing plates on the inside of the cockpit. 

16 hours ago, facthunter said:

If you just make it  real strong you might move the failure point somewhere else. The worse case is where it flaps when it's unlatched in flight.  What is it's failure Mode?. Nev

I guess if there is a lot of movent in flight or if flown with the doors swung up I could imagine fatigue being a real issue. The doors seal shut for flying and it isn't setup to fly with them open. It's a tough one though, I want it to be safe aswell

Rob

On 22/08/2022 at 9:38 PM, Marty_d said:

I used normal aluminium piano hinge.  When you look at it it's riveted every 40mm and the number of connections you have around the wire over the length of the door top mean it would have to be a fairly catastrophic force to pull that off, especially given the rest of the door is only held shut at one or 2 points.

Just noticed you're joining to fibreglass fuse, not sure if that makes a difference as my fuse is aluminium, but as far as the hinge goes I'm ok with it being standard ally instead of 2024 / 6061.

within my head i can see the std aluminium hinge working as its not a control surface and once the door is shut for flight it is completely stationary. I can't see it fatiguing like a wing spar or wing panel etc. The original hinges from the manufacturer were never sufficient and the previous owner had replaced them with stock steel household door hinges. If I go the milspec ms20257 ALU hinge I think it would be ok. It is used fairly heavily for Cowl mounting etc......and there is a lot more movement in a cowl.

Yes it is flat to flat surface. Piano hinge will work, I'm more curious as to Wether it needs to be 2024 T3 or 6061 or if just normal aluminium piano hinge would suffice