Peasant_Pilot

Morning all, looking at options for continuous hinge for a swing up door on a fiberglass fuselage, im looking at the 2024 T3 Alu continuous hinge and yes it is expensive but maybe the safest option,

interested in peoples opinion, am i overdoing it? 

what hve you used?

any input would be appreciated

thanks in advance 

Robert

7 minutes ago, Paul davenport said:

Tenacious little fella . 

Cheers mate, still finding it hard to beleive but all up so far have removed just over 13kg of paint. has been eye opening, but it has had 3 different paintjobs 

Lighting isnt the best, im only getting 20 minutes here and there between work etc.....but it is progressing, should have it completely stripped by the end of the week(finally)  then body work, door fitting etc

1 hour ago, FlyBoy1960 said:

Best choice you could make going to the Rotax.  The Subaru aircraft at our strip have all failed at one time or another

yeah, most guys i have spoken to have a had an outfield landing due to the the redrive belt letting go

1 hour ago, Paul davenport said:

You should be happy with the rotax do you have a motor or on the hunt for one?

was lucky to find one a little a bit ago, have had it sitting in storage for 12 months

43 minutes ago, Paul davenport said:

Are you using Subaru motor or rotax 

Will be going with the rotax. I was pretty set on the Sub but the foxcon is on the heavier side, so if I can shave that extra weight it would be nice.

3 hours ago, Paul davenport said:

Really getting stuck into it . Good on you 

Trying, havnt be able to much the last 2 weeks but getting closer to the fuse being on its legs again and paint

Got the fuselage flipped today to finish stripping the underside. Home stretch on the paint stripping, some minor repair work then I'll be propping and painting

54 minutes ago, onetrack said:

PP, what type of steel did you select for the rotors, and is there any particular reason why you chose that type of steel?

just 250 mild steel, as per Helmuts specs

Finally got my new rotors back from laser cutting. the minimum fee ended up getting me 14 pairs.

Well insurance difference I didn't really even factor into the equation, definitely helps with the decision 

Cheers for all the input

Rob

2 hours ago, spacesailor said:

The HummleBird is tricycle OR tailwheel, your choice !.

Mains are just reversed onto the opposite wing, & tailwheel converted. 

OR is it ghe other way about,

Morry,s is the tail dragger,  And learners opt for that nose-wheel, ease of landing.

spacesailor

Iv seen a couple of kit aircraft like that. I can see what needs to be done and how I could do it, I'd want to beef it up a tad though I think

1 hour ago, Paul davenport said:

I thought at one stage there was a tail wheel version of it 

So apparantly was never produced but one person did a conversion on one with success, Helmut told me about it but havnt been able to dig up any info

Good evening,

So, while I'm in stage of doing some design work and add ons with the Foxcon, it crossed my mind about a taildragger version, structurally they are capable and I can see a valid way to do it..........BUT, it is just a thought and I'm more than happy to keep it as a tricycle setup....

That being said id be interested to see peoples thoughts in general on taildragger conversions, Have you done one? complications? positives , so on so on

Would appreciate peoples thoughts

Cheers

Rob

Bit more body work done today

Morning all, looking to see if any fellow foxcon owners might be able to help out with any pics or diagrams of the trim system? Mine does not seem to have it or has been removed prior. Also if anyone could share a pic of the flap lever(inside cabin) that would be awesome 

Thanks in advance

Rob

4 hours ago, Paul davenport said:

Keep at it you are doing a great job. It will be the best looking one around 

Thanks mate, appreciate the positive comment. Hoping so. Will keep updating with progress

Reskinning the tail due to there being some light damage from hail etc, impact damage to gelcoat. have put about 70 hours in it since i bought the aircraft earlier this year, need to be spending more time but i am getting there bit by bit, the fuse is definately the biggest hurtle, i thionk once i can get the fuse prepped, painted i think it will feel more like its coming together

10 hours ago, skippydiesel said:

No experience, just repeating conventional wisdom - Blade number should be kept to a minimum for best weight, aerodynamic efficiency and cost. 

 

Consideration for more blades - Propeller clearance ie two blades can not be optimum length  length due to clearance (ground/airframe) restrictions for HP available - Aesthetic/Fashion pressures

 

There is evidence that more than two blades may, during take off, deliver greater initial acceleration. There is little if any evidence to suggest this continues beyond initial ground role.  Countering this is the evidence of reduced aerodynamic efficiency and weight that will negatively impact on the aircrafts flight "envelope"

 

Some suggestion of smoother operation/noise due to more frequent & smaller "pulses" from the propeller however this perception may be as much to do with the airframe to prop relationship, as blade numbers.

 

A ground adjustable two blade propeller, optimised for climb, is likely to deliver the best result but may not meet your aesthetic expectations.

Its a good point, admittedly i like the look of a 4 blade but end of the day its purpose has really nothing to do with aesthetics. the 3 blade is a good choice i feel and I'm looking predominantly for short field and climb performance. the bolly prop that the foxcon come with are on the larger side and have had a bit of history of clipping the deck if landing on rough surfaces etc

Thanks

Robert

2 hours ago, Arron25 said:

Just a point of interest...After too many flat tyres ( lawn mower tyres) changed on the side of strips all over north Qld.. I have never had a tyre move on the rim, so I would probably believe a knurl would be the most that may be needed..

thanks mate, appreciate the help. ill have a look at what might suit best

1 minute ago, Bruce Tuncks said:

Great job, please watch the weights. On my SK jabiru kit, I was fanatic about weight savings. In the end, it came out at the exact weight it was rated to be.

It's just too easy to make things heavy.

Thanks mate, I'm trying to manage the weights as best as possible. The tyres are the trade off, but with going forward with a rotax conversion, I'm I little bit more ok with the bigger tyres

9 hours ago, onetrack said:

Many earthmover rims have fine grooves installed at 90° to the bead seat taper, in the taper. This prevents tyres spinning on the rims, which can be a major problem with earthmovers huge torque inputs by the powertrain, to the drive tyres.

You can do this to the bead seats of a rim, in a lathe, with a straight grooving (knurling) tool.

 

https://www.lprtoolmakers.com.au/knurling-tool-3-4-shank-cuts-straight/

Thats a good idea, I'd have to try and dig out my knurling gear

39 minutes ago, FlyBoy1960 said:

You can actually buy some purpose made nipples that screw into the rim, much better than a self tapper.  Used in trials bikes for years

I'll have a further look at options, might even machine something up

16 minutes ago, Thruster88 said:

Yes a bead lock. Think you will need them with those big tyres and brakes

honestly completely overlooked that, cheers for the input, ill keep you upto date

1 minute ago, Thruster88 said:

Running these same wheels on the thruster with 6x6.00 aircraft tyres have found they don't grip the beads very well and will tear the valve stem off at low pressure even without brakes. Problem solved with two short self tapping screws each side on the inner diameter.  Screws go into the rubber by about 3mm.

like a bead lock?  i saw a go kart hub with some bead lock screws in a similar fashion, might have to look into that as well