cscotthendry

Unfortunately, we're heading the other way to OzKosh. Have a great weekend. I hear the Thangool flyin is a good one.

 

 

I put ND filters on my GoPros, but I find that it reduces the crispness of the footage. I'm thinking to take them off as I'd rather have wobbly props and crisp scenery than the reverse.

 

Thanks for posting though. I'd like to know more about how you mounted this to the case.

 

 

Also check how the regulator is connected to the battery. On some systems I've seen, there is a fuse between the regulator and the battery. My Legend was built like this. If that fuse blows, then there is no load on the regulator. When that happens, the reg will overvoltage and possibly burn out.

 

 

This may be wrong, but do you need to use hearing aids with headsets? As I understand, hearing aids just amplify and the whizz-bang ones do some noise filtering. This is similar to what ANR aviation headsets do. Just take the hearing aids out when you put the headsets on and if needed turn the radio/intercom/headset volume up.

 

 

Here is our latest trip....

Alicia and Haydn:

Just visited your channel and will be watching all of your videos. Great stuff! You have put a lot of work into your vlog and it shows. Thanks for sharing.

 

 

I was taught that you do not climb nor descend in the circuit, except when actually taking off and landing. When joining and on downwind you should maintain circuit height until the base turn. The only exception I can think of is departing straight out from the runway, when you maintain the runway heading and centreline until you are 1500' AGL.

 

 

Wouldn't it be a "gaggle" of Cri Cri rather than "heards" of them?

Probably more like a "plague" of CriCri since I think CriCri is French for "Cricket".

 

 

Helpful tip #1

 

Whenever you go to buy something like this, don't tell the retailer it's for an aircraft. Reactions will range from stunned vacant looks, to being ordered out of the shop.

 

But seriously, if you need an exact "to specifications" replacement, best to get the full specs on sizes capacity etc from the manufacturer, then go shopping for the specs rather than "I need a new battery for my gyro".

 

 

As far as I'm aware, there is not a set color to use below the stall speed, but I think red might be appropriate.

 

 

Trackley:

 

As an alternative, you can do what I did when I built my Nynja.

 

I got some different coloured "hookup" wire and used a piece of stiff wire with different colored insulation and glued it around the ring of my ASI

 

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The Balance master thing only weighs 4oz (about 115 grams) according to their website (I haven't weighed mine, but it's not large). No I haven't redone my weight and balance after. The Drifter prop flange is not really at the most extreme moment arm.

Thanks for that. 4Oz doesn't seem like it would be enough to counter the imbalance of a prop, but I guess we're not talking gross imbalances. For my setup though, the prop is a tractor style, at the very front of the plane so it could have been significant if there was significant weight in the thing. I'm thinking that 4 oz wouldn't require a re-W&B though,

Thanks again.

 

 

And that is why I kept my dynamic balance weights on when I fitted the Balancemaster thingy.

Hi:

How much did the Balance Master weigh? Did you have to redo your W&B after fitting it?

 

Someone likened mercury to "liquid lead" and saying that, I'm wondering what effect it would have putting a weight like that at an extreme arm on the plane such as out on the prop.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Bit slow getting started but like it said, worth the wait.

 

 

The approach to that uphill runway was amazing. A quick flick over the treetops and then plunge for the runway! Yikes

 

 

Had something similar happen on our outback trip. We were coming into Broken Hill with a 50+ Kt tailwind from the west and on the ground at BHI, the wind was 20Kt gusting to 30 straight down the cross strip ... except the cross strip was closed and we had to land on the main runway with the wind directly across the runway. Our Legend is rated to 7 kt crosswind component, but I can tell you that with a lot of control twisting and swearing it can manage 20 kt gusting to 30. It wasn't elegant or pretty, but we walked away and the plane was still usable.

 

 

Well done! and congratulations. Happy flying.

 

 

RJW:

 

Ultimately, turbulence can get strong enough to rip the tail off a Boeing 707 as happened over Mt Fuji in Japan ... But neither you nor I would be flying in those conditions and it's not something to become obsessed with.

 

 

A handheld for backup is a really good idea. On a recent trip to the outback, one member of our group suffered a radio failure. Apart from scaring the rest of us half to death worrying whether we'd lost them, there was the problem of what to do for the rest of the trip. Among the group there were several handheld radios carried for just this purpose and the pilot concerned was able to rig one with a lashed up adapter to his headsets and continue the trip with that. It worked well and saved the day.

 

 

Hmmm... I wonder ...

Glad to see that you belted up for your second flight young lady. Great video guys.

Exactly! I only noticed that this morning myself. A failure on my part as well ... "Hatches and harnesses ..."

Thanks for the compliments...

 

 

After our Lightning Ridge visit, we headed down to Cessnock to have the first 100 hourly done on our plane. That means we've clocked up 100 hours in less than 12 months!

 

 

 

Depending on your electronics ability, I can think of a simple system that wouldn't cost much to make.

 

Using a piezo sensor like in the video posted by Mark, you could amplify that signal through an opamp, then present that amplified signal to a comparator ladder and use the outputs of the comparators to light up an LED bargraph. It might take some trials to get the reference voltages in the comparator ladder set to show something meaningful, but the bargraph display would give a simple readout that would give you trending info.

 

If you went the digital rout with an Arduino or a PIC microcontroller, you could display numeric info, but then you have to READ the meter and interpret the numbers. Of course you could display the numeric info as well as a bargraph on a simple 40character 2 line LCD display, but the project starts to become a career move at that point.

 

PM me if you're interested in more detail of the simple version.

 

 

When we can get a large crowd to behave as the Oshkosh crowd does we might be able to have an airshow with the access you can get at Oshkosh and then I might go to more Australian shows.

NO, Sorry, Australians are not to be trusted with their own safety. That's why all the carparks are made like little mazes so that no one will go smashing into a row of cars or bowling over little old ladies with their trollies. In the US where I come from, they make carparks with a couple of acres of bitumen with lines painted on it ... And that's all. Somehow we managed for all these years to not have mass carnage in the carparks, but here in Oz, the carpark designers ... GRRR! They give me the irrits... So if we're not to be trusted to drive our own cars in a safe manner, how could we ever be trusted near shiny beautiful airplanes without getting our heads chopped off?

 

 

So did they get 10,000 people through the gates?

Abso-bloody-lutely! And then some I think.

As for the issues around he underwing camping and the seemingly changeable rules, it's my understanding that CASA changed the rules at least once on the weekend. I was told by a reliable source that the rule that no one could be out in the parking area came about sometime on Friday. Those that had to enforce it were sympathetic to those who had to suffer it, but ... What CASA sez, goes...

 

I was one who had to enforce that rule on Sunday, and I'm very pleased to report that I got NO grief whatever from those I had to stop from going through the gate. I thank all concerned for your patience with this and your good humour accepting the rules. Also I thank you on behalf of all of us at Watts Bridge, for coming along and making the event as successful as it was.

 

 

Thomas:

 

I agree with Mike completely. I wouldn't repair the GT prop myself. I'm guessing that somewhere somehow, the wooden core of your prop has got moisture in it that may have made it swell, and the swelling and the aerodynamic forces have made the prop shed the coating.

 

I had a Woodcomp prop on my LSA and I changed it for a Bolly, because I'm a bit hesitant about props with wooden cores and laminate sheathing. Also in my factoring, Bolly are local (to Oz) and so it is easy to get service AND they are great people to deal with.

 

In my case, I wrote to the factory of my LSA and sought a letter of approval for the prop swap and they were quite willing to do this. I believe this is all you need for LSA.