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Old Koreelah

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Posts posted by Old Koreelah

  1. 36 minutes ago, danny_galaga said:

    Without looking it up, I wouldn't be surprised if it's to do with fatigue…

    Thanks Danny. That’s the only downside I can see and it should be easily fixed if the aluminium conductors are sheathed and well fixed to stop the effects of vibration.

     

    That Piper SB in Kiwi’s post seems to blame corrosion at junction points for the risk of fire, so that’s my main area of interest: the safest (and lightest) way to join fixed aluminium cables to flexible copper ones.

  2. 8 hours ago, RFguy said:

    I mean WHICH screws out of the 6 moved ?
    I cant beleive that is Jabiru's advice as it is bollocks in IMO if that is so. 

    Problem is dynamic version static friction influencing torque.  Hence the reason to back them off to they are moving when you are measuring torque. Otherwise resultant tension could be out by perhaps 2:1... as you are overcoming static friction, corrosion etc etc lots of errors.

    Thanks for your feedback Glen. 


    Which head screws moved? 
    image.thumb.jpeg.c4233c5f216b07de1c171e86c89c1128.jpeg

     

    On Head 1, Number 6 moved c.30 degrees.

    On Head 2, bolt 2 moved 10 degrees, 3 moved 20 degrees and 6 moved 30 degrees.

    On Head 3 no bolts moved.

    On Head 4, 2 moved 20, 3 moved 10 and 6 moved 35 degrees.

     

    Thus, mostly the bottom bolt, not the top three. Perhaps because the bottom of the head gets less cooling air and therefore hotter and more likely to soften?


    Inside my tappet covers is not as shiny as it was at 100hrs. Since then, CHTs  have exceeded 160 a couple of times (but none have ever approached the 180C often quoted as max.)Testing with two other instruments have convinced me the CHT readings are within 10 degrees of true.

    image.thumb.jpeg.e47d4f917fb1661b27cf9f97f8fc07a9.jpeg

    What you say about backing offhead bolts makes more sense to me than the factory advice; being a 19-reg homebuilt, I have cast a wide net for maintenance ideas. Despite not having always complied with some of the factory’s earlier suggestions, the engine has given years of trouble-free service.

     

     

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg

    • Like 1
  3. Glen I read somewhere recently that Jabiru advise to NOT back off the headbolts before torquing them up. Based on that, I just put the recommended torque on a long Allen key, via a pipe mounted over it and a recently calibrated spring balance pulling at the appropriate distance along that. 
     

    Which bolts? The six Allen bolts on each head, including the one hidden under the plug in the rocker box.

    • Informative 1
  4. I’m just doing some maintenance on my Jab 2.2 engine. It’s SN 3178, hydraulic tappets and has been reliable for 15 years. 
    Done less than 300hrs in that time, so lots of sitting idle. 
     

    Head bolts torques all okey, except 6 of the 24 needed to be turned 10-30 degrees. All valve springs still have at least 300 micron clearance when fully compressed.
     

    Leakdowns all 73/80 or better, with most of the air getting past rings. (When the heads were off at c.200hrs, the bores showed some glazing.)

     

    When removing distributor covers, I discovered three of the retaining cap screws were loose, the fourth missing!
    Something I never checked. Why didn’t Jabiru use retaining clips like everyone else?

    • Like 1
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  5. Trailer they were “110” on the O ring board at our local Engineering shop. 

    14.45 OD, 9.35 ID, 2.5 thickness- my amateur reading of the vernier.


    I have an assortment of O rings, but cannot be sure of their quality or suitability for fuel, so went to town to get what I hope are proper ones.

     

    Just pulled out the old fuel lines, which are marked SAE 30R7.

    Replacing them with SUNFLEX ROFL050 fuel line SAE J1527 6mm.

     

    This hose claims to cope with 100C continuous service.

     

     

    • Like 1
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  6. On 10/4/2023 at 3:48 PM, RFguy said:

    My J230 fuel drains leaked...  (changed O rings- and dont forget the header tank drain O ring) . Not fast enough to make a difference but eventually they would have…

    My Jodel has Jabiru tank fittings. Even though the old O rings look okey, today I bought new ones. Each O ring cost 11 cents.
    The new fuel line cost $12 dollars.
    This little baby is starting to cost me real money!

    • Like 2
    • Haha 3
    • Informative 1
  7. 39 minutes ago, jackc said:

    I have been described as a nut case by people all my life because I am adventure driven BUT I am still alive 🙂 

    Thinking back…….it probably started when I got expelled from a private boarding school, they said there NO hope for me…..Wanchors!!

     

    How many of your risk-averse peers have you outlived?

    Quite a few of mine succombed to that greater risk: not enough physical activity to burn off what they were drinking and eating.

    • Like 1
  8. 1 hour ago, jackc said:
    Medicals need to be unworkably intense to catch many impending Medical events. Still, there can never be 100% success.

    But our regulators are too fcking dumb to see the woods for the trees.  Nothing can ever be perfect……  

    I suspect that for road users and flyers, the biggest risk factor is not physical health but mental.
    Is there a test to weed out those of us with faulty decision-making, let alone a dangerous attitude?

    • Like 2

  9.  

    i moulded the stick in my Jodel with epoxy filler to match my hand shape. Then I finished it wth material that commemorates two famiy members. The grip is wound with Kangaroo skin rawhide cut by my wife’s dad and the top of the stick has a knob made from rosewood, from a tree cut down in 1937, from which my dad made lots of things.

    • Like 2
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