Ayecapt

Thanks for the comments thus far...I have been looking into th3 Facebook Group idea however it is so limited compared to forums where you can have separate forums for different topics and the ability to do extensive seraching. Plus with all the limitations that Tacebook has each site user would have to join facebook and then end up being plagued with all their paraphanalia emails. A forum site seems to have the best features, functionality and a greater more pleasurable user experience...sorry for mentioning Facebook but it was just an example of other forms of different mediums

Perhaps a public group might work, it seems the admins can do most of the things to moderate the group that forum admins currently do .

Group Management for Admins | Facebook Help Centre | Facebook

Would not a closed group[ shoot yourself in the foot and severely limit your exposure and potential members?

However closed groups are not secret groups. Their existence is not hidden . Especially to tech savvy youngsters.

Cheers And hope we can resolve this for the benifit of all forum members and unload Admin of some work!

I am a member of a couple of closed groups on facebook. The admin (group )i think has control over unacceptable posts and who can join the group. And its easy enough to follow a topic. Now let me say outright that i am not a big fan of facebook , but it does have its uses and good points. At the very least there is no software maintenance workload.

There are already many aviation closed groups on facebook.

A big loss by going to facebook is loss of identity , but perhaps this can overcome by using existing imagery to get a bit of the original site ambience .

At our airfield we a young fella still at school, keen as mustard, his preferred comunication method is facebook. And i guess most new youth aviators will be the same.

Perhaps we could create a facebook closed group page for recreational flying and simply test it out. Would need 4 or 5 admins to approve new group members and veto inappropriate posts. Run it as a test in parrallel with this site for a year.

As to privacy i am not a troll but i dont use my real name or details on facebook, i use a cartoon name an alias , much the same as most of s do here on this forum . So privacy should be no issue.

Cant comment on how to do the shop side of things but facebook is commercial. Personally i use the shop. I go there first when i need to purchase aviation stuff . Dont always get what i need there but will buyif its available and priced right. Would not like to see that disappear. To me the shop is a valuable resource.

Happy new year. To you all

Brian

It used to be a 15 Square (about 10m**2) on a quarter acre block. The norm now appears to be 25m**2 on a 1/8 acre block, filling it to the boundaries with no green space, no eaves, much A/C and electric clothes drying (McMansions) - the new age slums are with us now.

We fly cattle class and we live cattle class !

I have often thought that the Sydney basin generates its own weather effects. I cant prove it , but they seem to get many more severe events ( hail strong thunder storms ) than we do here in the Hunter region.

Energy cannot be destroyed . So each car , electric train , airconditioner or person simply converts or moves energy from other forms back into heat. Looking at cars alone every bit of energy in the fuel air mixture ends up as heat. Waste heat from engines, rolling resistance and brakes etc . So all this stored energy from fuels ( electricity, oil, gas and food). All enters the atmosphere. It must have an effect on local weather ?

Our Tecnam Sierra is hot on the ground in summer but not an issue in the air.

I have noticed High wing types taxying around with doors open to get cooling air inside. So its not just bubble canopyies that have that problem.

I taxy with the canopy slid back as far as i need . So i guess keep it in mind but if i liked a design for its performance I would go for it.

Was reading the policy on the CASA website to try to work out exactly what the go is. I read that "at a minimum, all pilots must undergo the background checks for an AVID" literally this would mean power paraglider, gyrocopter, hanglider and paraglider pilots. So to me that reads at the very least every current pilot needs an AVID irrespective of where they fly."You need a valid ASIC if you require frequent access to a secure area of a security controlled airport that has Regular Public Transport (RPT) operations". The operator can determine which areas are security controlled but the intent is where RPT operators are parked/loading/offloading. ASIC not required at security controlled airport unless you plan to fly into one frequently there is no guide as to what is considered frequent.

 

I contacted Aviation ID Australia for clarification and they said they only issue the id and could not explain what was needed and why. It is as clear as mud. I wonder if we make it harder for ourselves because we think we need an ASIC when we actually only need an AVID (or not!).

THIS SORT OF QUESTION SHOULD BE FOLLOWED UP BY A ORGANISATION LIKE RAAUS. I will stop shouting now! It will take a legal opinion and perhaps a test case.

The other thing is there are a few petty beurocrats working at airports that think they know it. I bet they dont.

You have the enthusiasim. What you also need is patience and cash. If your impatient you will eventually get yourself in the air in a unprepared way . When your learning to fly it can take a bit of time for things to sort of click. We are all different of course. But for most people there will be somthing that just takes a little longer to learn. So patience is needed. The cash... dont bank on doing the minimum 20 hours Budget for more and you will be happy when you have some cash left over to start your xcountry training.

Welcome to flying you will enjoy it.

Cable on left is battery to solenoid and so has 12volts, likewise I presume (haven't put a voltmeter on it) that the red end of diode will have 12volts on it. I have a master solenoid for all of the electrics but the starter solenoid has 12V permanently at the left terminal, direct battery feed to starter which is why I figure that if the diode breaks down the current bypasses the solenoid and hence with all switches off, starter continues to turn.

The diode should only be connected to the 12v input and to the start switch , it should not be connected in anyway to the starter motor positive cable . I have a diagram here that i cant seem to upload .

how do you post jpg pics from a ipad ....grrrrr....

[ATTACH=full]51928[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]51929[/ATTACH] Tried to pm a photo or two but couldn't for some reason, so here they are!

I need to ask a question here. Elec engineers used diodes on electromechanical devices such as solenoids to prevent back EMF destroying transistors and other sensitive electronics. If its just a plain old switch driving the solenoid then why the diode? You can't destroy a switch with back emf. If you are worried about switch arcing then a proper LC (inductor capacitor) snubber is far better solution.

I need to ask a question here. Elec engineers used diodes on electromechanical devices such as solenoids to prevent back EMF destroying transistors and other sensitive electronics. If its just a plain old switch driving the solenoid then why the diode? You can't destroy a switch with back emf. If you are worried about switch arcing then a proper LC (inductor capacitor) snubber is far better solution.

Voltage spikes from the solenoid can destroy sensitive devices , and many such devices exist in our aircraft from voltage regulators to intercomms and radios, a big list of things.

Setting aside the technical question, if as a maintainer or a pilot you get a feeling that somthing is just not quite right eg that little flick of a gauge that you have never seen before and it does it again or more often. You gotta at least consider is it a developing fault . Do not ignore the early signs your life depends on it!

So i guess chasing a diode issue that may not be completly essential to operating the AC might be thought of as time wasting, its not , in this case i think we will find that the diode was never originally wired correctly and when it failed it engaged the starter solenoid. That is what we are sorting out as to why a replacement diode is not operating in the same way as the old one did.

Here is a guess ( no facts yet to suppoert it ) original diode was wired across the switch in reverse, when it should have been across the coil terminals . the back emf from the starter coil eventually zapped it thus engaging the coil full time and starter motor runs. Remove the old diode and all ok. Fitt a new diode but due to inexperience with diodes , its fitted the wrong way round , coil current is carried through the diode and damages the diode, which in turn pulls in the solenoid and runs the motor. We are back to where we started ( no pun intended lol) But lets see what further investigation turns up without facts its all a guess.

Warwick Qld. I am a retired LAME and did 100% of the airframe, electrical, radio and painting and it was all Ok but I am no electronic wiz and this has me stumped, especially since it was working previously.

I will do that, but can't until tomorrow and yes I do have a multimeter.

Thanks for all suggestions. The point is that the diode was on the solenoid trouble free for 40+ hrs without a problem then the fault developed. Without a diode the solenoid functions well, that is how I have it at the moment, not ideal long term but for the moment it will do. What I don't understand now is why, even with a new diode fitted, the problem returned!

I need the help of an electrical genius on this one. A few days ago, when I attempted to start my engine and I let the key return from the start position, the starter continued to run. With master switch and magneto switch off the starter continued to run although disengaged from the starter ring. My first thought was that it must be a stuck starter solenoid, however the easiest thing to try first was to remove the diode from the solenoid, so I did and the fault disappeared. To double-check I put the diode back and the problem returned. Removed it again and again the fault disappeared. Ok! Down to Jaycar for some new diodes, fit a new diode and the problem returned. I wondered if I might have mistakenly installed the diode the wrong way round so I reversed it but that didn't help. Currently I have no diode fitted and it is all working fine. What I need to know is what value diode I need to fit? I cannot find any info on that. The ones from Jaycar are marked 1000V 1A which I presume is 1000volts and 1 amp.

As a guess im thinking your diode has been wired up so that it is across the start button or switch contacts. If it is and if the diode is shorted the solenoid will engage all the time. But without further info its hard to say with certainty what is going on.

Derek:The diode is a "snubber" device used to shunt back EMF from the solenoid coil to ground when you release the start switch (or button). The actual value of the diode is not too important and if your diode has failed, try one with a higher PIV and current rating. The 1000V rating that you mentioned is the PIV (Peak Inverse Voltage) rating. All the diode really does is to stop arcing in the start switch (or button) after you release it by shunting the pulse generated by the collapsing magnetic field in the solenoid, back to ground.

So im sort of thinking that the diode might not have been wired in correctly in the first place. Snubber diods are connected across the solenoid coil terminals and as close as possible to those terminals. Is this how your diode is fitted?

It looks like the ASIC system is going to get even more complex and annoying later this year.Identity security amendments

 

seems its possible to get your face to face check done at a post office. See pic .

Couple of screen shots for a Garmin 250 series att . Look at Pin 12 and note 3.

As i said you can run into trouble with front end overload. So if the radios have the cross link feature you should use it as well as correct aerial separation. Cross linking is easy enough if you use a mic / ptt changeover switch.

Thats about all on this from me.

2 aerials as others have stated . Make sure you correctly cross interlock the two radios. The installation manuals will show you the correct terminls to connect to the other radios PTT . If you dont do this you risk getting very severe and annoying noises from the non transmitting radio. . Due to the tramsmitting radio signal forcing its way through the front end of the receiver on the non tx radio, even if it's tuned to another channel . ( front end overload defeats the recievers selectivity )

Raaus feels its not their fault that Aust post did not deliver sports pilot in time for some members to vote.

But who took the decision to include ballot papers in a magazine in the first place?

If the election is important then ballot papers should go out by normal mail. Cost cutting decisions like this make the organisation look amatuer.

My mag only arrived today - not much time to vote and send back in time.

Election papers should go out by mail and in a marked envelope . No mag here and its the 23 rd.

The cost of running elections is fundamental to operating the organisation. You cant cut corners and be able to defend the integrity of the election. If just one member who wants to vote can show that the late delivery of a magazine caused he or she to miss out , then the organisation might have breached the constitution. Magazines go by a second or third grade of mail , delivery is not gauaranteed by a certain date.

A timely reminder, Ayecapt. Easy enough to do. I have a simple manometer glued to the wall next to my plane.For those of us who stay in G space, resetting Alt. to airport elevation before each flight and checking against GPS readings in flight should keep you well inside these requirements.

It's easy to fly extended squares to check the ASI against a couple of GPS units.

How do you lower the pressure on the open end of your manometer to test the altimeter? Is a big syringe suitable to pull air out . And i was wondering how big a manometer to build? Im guessing to use 16mm dia clear hose about 2 metres long before bending? Or is that too long?

Regards Brian

Hi. Read in another thread a bit of banter about accessing CTA and the need to have calibrated flight instruments only if flying into CTA....... Well heres a extract from Raaus tech manual.

SECTION 12.4

INSTRUMENT & TRANSPONDER CHECKS

1 AIRCRAFT OPERATING IN CONTROLLED AIRSPACE (CTA) – CLASS C, D, E,

1. 1.1 Aircra that are currently legally permi ed to y in Controlled Airspace (CTA) as detailed in provisions of CAO 95.10, 95.32 or 95.55, must have their instruments maintained in accordance with the provisions of CAO 100.5. The checks are only available through a LAME with specialised calibrated equipment and appropriate licence ra ngs.
    
    
    
    
   
2. 1.2 Compass “swinging” is not mandatory, however, CASA AWB 34-008 provides good advice. A compass devia on card should be ed following any compass checking.
    
    
    
    
   
3. 1.3 Compliance with the required checks must be noted in the aircra log book.
    
    
    
   

2 AIRCRAFT OPERATING ONLY OUTSIDE CONTROLLED AIRSPACE (OCTA) – CLASS G

1. 2.1 Al meters must be checked every 2 years against a currently cer ed al meter (a LAMEs test equipment) or other appropriate test equipment (e.g. a water manometer and scale, or GPS) and must not deviate by more than +/- 100 feet, up to the maximum normally expected operating altude of the aircra .
    
    
    
    
   
2. 2.2 Airspeed indicators must be checked every 2 years against a manometer or against a GPS using test runs in opposite direc ons; and airspeed indica ons shall not vary by +/- 5kts; and
    
    
    
   

...........And so on. I wonder if these checks are being done every 2 years?