Turbo_Boss

Hey guys, I am going to teach a friend to fly a Quicksilver MXII with Rotax 582. He has some knowledge and he has fly several times with me, my Rans S12. I want for him a Idiot Proof Training/Learning Book that is easy to understand, with graphics in order that he also get a good theoretical learning. Also is there is a good video (CD) as well, I will be interested too. THX, Isaac

Hey Tucano, Are you planing on taking pics /video during your assembly and post them here to check your progress? Good luck on bulding your Tucano Replica. Isaac

I remeber when I was going to land in that golf course to check for any golfers playing. But later they (Golfers) toll me that they saw me flying in circles over the field and they inmediately know my airplane was in trouble because They hear the engine RPM sounding extrange, so they was keeping and eye on me:yikes: As soon I land, there was like hundred of golf cars around me and the golfers asking me if I was OK. Everybody took there camera and take pictures with the UL. I leave the UL sleeping there and got there the next day with some flying club members and we check everything, change fuel, etc, etc............We ran the engine for several minutes and then I take off. The idea was to fly over the golf field for several minutes and if the problem comes again, then I land. When I tell the golfers that I was going to take off, nobody belive that the UL can take off in that small space............. So again, everybody took there cameras and beguin to video........... I take off in around 50 feets and then fly to my club field without any problem. My advise to everybody is to fly always on top of places that you know you can land in case of emergency. Eaven if is going to take more time to get to where you want to go, ALWAYS try to fly were you can have a place to land............ Is there is a part that there is no place to land, then what I do is got to a higher altitude in order to have more time to glide and choose a spot. For example, there is a island that if you fly in a straight line from our club field to that island, you can made it in around +/- 40 minutes.......But between that island and our club field, there is jungle! What I do always is to take the longer way. I fly over the hi way and then at the end of tha hio way, I make a right and fly bordering the shore line until I get to that island. Isaac

I will add that as soon as you have selected a suitable landing site, just focus on that site and dont change your mind. I experice a engine failure one time were my Rotax 912 was with a problem similar to fuel starvation. The engine was only giving me 4,200 RPM and some times wants to die. I was at 2,500 feet and I saw a golf field were I say in my mind I going to land there and belive me, I was thinking in my mind what exactly I was going to do when I was near that field. Then I radio my other friends that was flying with me and explaning the problem and that I was going to land on the golf field. Then, one of my friend say, no, land on the hi way over there, then other toll me, no, land in that other place........... I shout over the radio: I will go for the Golf Field, thats it! So in my experience, if you figure out were you going to land on and emergency, just focus on that site and think what you going to do exactly when you are close to that site. BTW, I was in complete calm doing my emergency landing BUT as soon I land and I got out of the plane, my legs was shacking like hell:beg: Then we find that my engine was suffering from Vapor Lock. At that time my engine does not have a Fuel return line to the tank. I intall that line and also a AUX electric fuel pump. From that day, I have not experienced any problem. Isaac

Hey Viper, I am very happy that you and your daughter are OK. When you will now exactly why the engine stop? Regards, Isaac

Do not GAP Iridium Plugs! You use them as is!! I use Denso Iridium on my 582 as they come from the box (Gap = 0.035) Platinum and Iridium Spark Plugs http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/ignition.php The initial reason this type of plug was developed was to extend plug life due to US EPA-mandated exhaust emission system low maintenance requirements, not because they offered any improved performance over conventional electrodes. They incorporate electrodes made of harder materials that erode more slowly and consequently don’t need to regapped as often. The big benefit to having platinum or iridium as an electrode material is that the harder material erodes more slowly and consequently allows you to reduce the size of the center electrode and still have a long-lifetime plug. But remember, a smaller electrode will initiate an arc at a lower voltage. Consequently, you should NOT run these plugs at the factory recommended gaps. If your coils and wires are weak then a smaller gap will reduce misfires, but should be applied only as an interim measure. NGK and Denso pre-gap their Ducati application iridium plugs to 0.035 inch. This should be considered a MINIMUM gap for this kind of plug. Their smaller electrodes fire this larger gap at about the same voltage as a conventional plug fires the factory recommended gap - with one added benefit - a strong spark kernel across a larger plug gap = improved throttle response. Consequently, dyno testing shows a performance gain with specialty plugs only when their intrinsically lower arc-over voltage has allowed users to increase the plug gap above that possible with conventional steel electrode plugs. Try increasing the gap beyond 0.035 inch for further improvements. You should be able to go to 0.040 inch on a new superbike. Said another way, platinum or iridium plugs in your Ducati will give you worse performance than a conventional plug unless you use a larger gap than is recommended for the steel electrode plug equivalent.

Hello Guys, Here is my problen with my ROTAX 914 Turbo Last weekend, when I was going to take off, I advance the throttle to full and then advance the lever to engage the turbo, I fill when the turbo kick in for a few seconds but then then I fill the engine loose power like if I move the lever back to disengage the turbo. I abort the take off and get back to the hangar. Thinking that the problem was old fuel, I remove completely the fuel, put new fuel, new plugs, clean the air filter, clean carburators, start the engine and everything was OK. Since is was late, I dont fly it. Today I start my engine ROTAX 914 Turbo and during the warn up, around 3 minutes of engine runing at 2,000 RPM, the Ambar Warning TCU light, blink 3 times and then stop blinking. The Engine is installed on a Magni Gyro and it has 248hrs This was my EIS reading when this happened: Fuel Presure: 6.5psi Engine RPM: 2,000 Oil Temp: 95� EGT: 1,000 CHT: 120 I was checking the Rotax 914 Trouble Shoting Manual and its says that if this Ambar TCU warning light blink, its mean that there can be a problem in: Wiring Sensor Sensor damage TCU Failure Air Box Leakage So where you recomend me to start looking for the problem? THX Isaac

Hello Guys, Today I went to fly my Magni Gyro and to my surprise I see oil in the floor exactly under the turbo of the Rotax 914. Its look like the oil is dripping from the hose that goes from the turbo to the airbox. Also the air filter is completely wet in oil. I turn the prop by hand several times an the engine is not hydrolock. I also does not started the engine since I want to know whats going on before I started it again. Last time I use it was like a month ago and everything was ok. Last time I change oil, Rotax filter and plugs was like 20 hours ago and I have not add any more oil so it not that I overfilled. Thanks for your help and advices, Isaac

Regarding the above, the problem was that people was using regular tap water with coolant that has silicate. The minerals in the regular water plus the silicate become abrasive and damage the seals on the rotary valve. You can use what ever brand of Antifreeze & Coolant you want BUT: 1) Do not use or mix it with regular tap water. 2) Make sure that the coolant you going to use in you 582 is phosphate-free and silicate-free formula. 3) Make sure to get the 50/50 Prediluted Antifreeze & Coolant thats is already pre-mixed with deionized water. 4) Havoline® DEX-COOL® Extended Life Anti-Freeze/Coolant meet all of the above Here iare the Specs of the Havoline® DEX-COOL® Extended Life Anti-Freeze/Coolant The patented carboxylate inhibitors in Havoline Extended Life provides unsurpassed cooling system protection, improved component durability and extraordinary extended life cooling capabilities for up to five years or 150,000 miles. Virtually all automobile and light-duty truck cooling systems can benefit from the increased cooling system protection of Havoline Extended Life. It meets European spec phosphate-free requirements and Japanese spec silicate-free requirements. Havoline Extended Life was also the first to earn GM's own DEX-COOL requirement approval. Havoline Extended Life Prediluted 50/50 can also be purchased by those who wish to have coolant already mixed with deionized water. Good luck, Isaac

This engine only has 100hrs............... New Crankshaft is around $1,400 Boaring the 2 cylinders to fix the scrash that have one $$ New pistons/rings,etc $$ Gasket $$ Importing everything to our country $$ It will be better to get a new engine to be on the safe side. The owner already order a completey new 0 hrs Rotax 582 Isaac

Hey Guys, Do anybody knows what other Ski-Doo/Sea-Doo Rotax engines & parts are compatible with the Rotax 582. The thing is that a 582 is exactly the same engine to a 5xx or 6xx that you find in a Ski-Doo or Sea-Doo The only diference is that the 582 use 2 spark plug for cylinder and it use 2 magnetos BUT I "think" thats are the only diferences. For example a Crankshaft for a Sea-Doo 587 including all new main and wrist-pin bearings, inner seals and rods. Trued & welded to better than OEM specifications is available for U$195.00 and the same part for a 582 is around U$1,000.oo Do any body has a cross reference of what parts we can use? THX, Isaac

Hello Guys, Talking about failed two cycles engines This almost new Rotax 582 Blue Head with only 100 hrs in a Quicksilver MXII decide to quit in the air. Emergency landing was ok with no damage to the Quicksilver neither to the pilot. This engine is oil injection and use alway Penzoil oil The engine was working perfect and sudenly the RPM beguin to drop until it stop completely :( Everything took like 5 seconds) We decide to open the motor and we remove "only" the cylinders. This is what we found. If you check the pics you will see a cooper color part. This part was stuck on the crankshaft. Were this part coming from? Were it goes in the engine and why this happened? Any clue? Next week I will take apart the crank case to see what I found. THX, Isaac

I am planing to install a Dynon's EFIS-D6 on a Aventura Amphibious UL. When I land over water, many times the instrument panel get splash from the water and I am a little worry that the Dynon EFIS get damage from the splash water. What I mean is that maybe the from display or the grey buttons on the lower part allow water to come inside and damage it. i_dunno Have any of you has intalled one of this unit on a Amphibious? Are they sealed in the front in order that water does not get in? Any Advise? Thx, Isaac

I use 95 Octanage fuel (Not Blended with Ethanol) I just try my 582 with the nw plugs and is working perfect. Isaac

Hey guys, thxs for all your coments and for the link. I already get a set of Denso Iridium and tomorrow saturday al will intall them. THX, Isaac