mcrowley

PS, thanks Steve. (And how come you didn't us the pump pliers???)Second Question:

On the rudder the nearest A4 rib rivets to the trailing edge tend to collide, LH to RH.

 

I see they've offset the holes in the ribs to try to avoid this, but not enough, apparently.

 

Is there a workaround for this...a shorter rivet, maybe???

I ordered a second door frame and door and fitted it to the other side so have a door in both sides

Thanks for the pics and the different solutions to the problem! Kyle, how is your box installed? It looks like the stock battery box but I can't see how you've modified it... Thanks all!

Had a look at your log earlier, you're certainly firing ahead! And I surely envy you your periodic Savannah flights in the meantime. Will you do the test flights yourself, do you think?

Thanks, Rick. I'm also going to back the air off some more, I think I had it way too high initially, which made for a sharp sort of recoil. Apart from that, I think my rivets are pretty straight, and I didn't hit the skin (so far).So. Still getting the tools set up with these early days: today I must sort out some soft jaws for my new vice. When next in town I must find the correct fittings for an air line, so the compressor doesn't have to follow me around. And I am currently using an old awl where necessary to align the holes, but the diameter is a bit small, and I need to find or make something better before I get to the more challenging stuff.

 

It's interesting to see what different people do by way of prep.

 

Rankamateur is etch priming both mating faces, then applying the black stuff, also etch priming where the rivet heads will go before putting them in. If I understand correctly. That seems like a top of the line job.

 

Another builder I know is intending to use etch primer only, no black stuff, but also wants to solid rivet, and has the skills and the equipment.

 

I'm intending to use the black stuff only, but also etch prime where the rivet heads will go.

 

QUESTION: Does anyone know if ICP intended us to coat both mating surfaces with the black stuff? Eg, when putting skin over ribs, are both the ribs and the skin precoated with black? Or just the ribs?

So. Today, finally, after all the preamble, I got to pull some rivets. And did that feel good!That black stuff is a little like maple syrup, in that it mysteriously finds it's way onto tools, doorknobs, and various flat surfaces. I'm going to have to get my system sorted out there: I trimmed a small roller to 20mm wide, and that works fine, now I need to organise a less messy way to get the stuff onto the roller in the first place. It seems to skin and dry very quickly (which is great once it's applied) so I'm guessing it needs to be kept in a closed container of some sort between rolls?

Question: I find that I am sometimes marking the heads of the rivets with a little nick or raised edge. I guess this is sometimes bounce in the gun, sometimes not holding it quite perpendicular.

 

I checked that I am using the correct size tip.

 

I tried steadying the tip with the other hand and that seems to improve things (although it's going to be just a bit slower).

 

I also backed off the pressure from 6 bar to about 4.5 and i think that helped too.

 

Are there any other tips or suggestions on this? What pressure are others using?

I just had a quick look, Very impressed with the prepping.Looking at those fuselage frames getting their first skins, reminded me of something I tried out on my build. Due to my Airmaster constant speed prop installation, caused my battery to need installation in the rear position near the door. I fitted the left sheet on the right and visa versa, moving the door to the right hand side of the fuselage and giving a lot more room to access the battery terminals and tie down bolt.

Yes, my kit was delivered Jun 2013, just before the Jul2013 manual revision. I had the same problem as you with my kit having new parts which were not in my manual.I am about to hang my engine, paint the wings and apply for a registration number.

 

[ATTACH=full]42997[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]42998[/ATTACH]

Yes, I have the one piece wing tip. That kinda makes my point about the manual. My kit has the one piece wing tip, the new plumbing that simply joins the long range tanks to the nearest inboard tank, the new vent line for the collector tank, and the extended baggage compartment. The manual simply states "install wing tip" without offering any tips on how to do it. I did the first one in two days, the second one in 30 minutes. The new tank plumbing isn't in the manual at all, other material is scattered across three different sections, the references to various chapters, page numbers, and illustrations are usually inaccurate, and the master list of components is missing many of the parts. It seems to me that ICP has done an outstanding job of listening to pilots and updating the design, making it better and better. What puzzles me is why they don't do the same for the construction manual. Many of my pages are dated 2010... The good news is that the kit design, organization, and fabrication is fantastic and Valter della Nebbia here in Texas is an easy, helpful friend to reach out to at any time. More than a salesman, he is also a very experienced pilot (former NATO fighter pilot), builder, and superb instructor. He has been an excellent source for advice not only on construction but also in deciding which features and equipment to install based on the mission profile you desire.

It is not that bad, but it does need someone who speaks English to work through it. It is much improved on the Savannah classic manual. Since BRM stole the savannah classic plans, and manuals on a CD the company are not very keen to let a third party loose on an editable copy of their current manuals.

Were they 3/32"(A3) countersunk? I have only encountered 1/8"(A4) and 5/32"(A5) countersunk.

Has anyone tried extending the extended baggage compartment on their Savannah? I'm building the Savannah S model with the extended baggage option. I realize that putting additional weight in the tail is limited and the CG has to be closely monitored. What I'm thinking off is a very lightweight aluminum tube to extend back a couple more frames to allow small, light, long pieces to be carried. As I'm not much of a golfer I'm primarily thinking of ways to transport a rifle or shotgun... We Texans have a wild hog problem and I'm looking forward to doing what I can to help

As we all know, the construction manual really stinks but the aircraft is a sweeheart and the kit is really impressive. All the parts are labeled, bundled together, and designed in a way that things can only go one way. Now if only I wouldn't spend hours trying to find an odd part, decipher the cryptic manual, or figure out how to do things like "install wing tip." So far I've gotten the tail feathers and wings done, now I'm working on the fuselage. You can check out my build progress on www.mykitlog.com/mcrowley

I have the new manual and the updated panel you are talking about in my Savannah S kit. I post some pics of the manual's layout of the installed instruments this evening.

I was talking about the line curled up in the bottom of the box... I had four cardboard boxes in my crate. One was all the little parts for the fuselage and was labeled "fuseleio" or something Italian like that ;-) The second box contained the brake system, tire tubes, seat belts, etc. The third box contained the boot for the control stick, electric flap motor, etc. The fourth box had the other little bags of rivets, bags of nuts and bolts, pitot tube, etc. Although I'm sure its certainly possible, every time I get frustrated and think something is missing, I find it :)

My Savannah S kit had the countersunk, or flush rivets... small bag, had to dig all the boxes. I found mine at the bottom of the smaller box that contained the pitot system... Good luck!

Thanks Neil, however I live in Midland, Tx USA so that may be a bit pricey ;-)

Thanks for the pics!! If you have some of the front that would also be very helpful.

Holy mackerel!!! I'm now taking tips on installing the new one piece plastics wing tips on the Savannah S.... I've manage to wrestle it in but...

1. Do you slide the plastic between the spars and skin or trim the spar or plastic tip?

2. Somehow the bottom outer skin panel one has a wave in it after I installed the tip with Clecoes.

3. Any pics of a proper install, notably the spacing/overlap of the sheet edges in relationship to the tip.

Thanks all, I appreciate the help! Garfly, thanks again... I misread your initial reply, drat!

Garfly, that wasn't my contention... merely what I've been told. I studied the BRS website and couldn't find confirmation, perhaps I missed it? I would appreciate access to the information where "it is easy to disprove;" it hasn't been for me. I realize this topic is scattered all over this site, however I haven't been able to find the specific response to unusual or tumbling flight attitudes. I appreciate the collective experience and research of the members as I am trying to make well informed decision as I continue in my own build.

Has anyone heard that the ballistic parachutes are only able to deploy in straight and level flight? I would imagine the primary purpose for deployment would be in case of in-flight structure failure or loss of control which would result in a tumble...??

I'm trying to close out my first wing on my Savannah S... Question: does the outer wing tip panels go under or overlap the main top and bottom skins? Thx!

One simple trick to balance a tire can be borrowed from motorcycle riders. Put about 4 ounces of dynabeads in the tube after temporarily removing the valve stem, then simply air it back up. It works perfectly on the large rear tire on my Honda Goldwing.

What is the firewall width comparison of the Savannah S, CH701 and the CH750? I'm wondering if the cowling options are similar. Thanks!